any idea what I could get for my JD 3320?

[Nathan_OR]

I'm going through a change in situation and I'm going to have to sell my beloved JD 3320. Here are the stats and implements... if you guys can give me any idea what ballpark (nearest $1k is fine) I can expect it would help a lot with planning how to do this thing.

2007 JD 3320
- 87 hours
- options include eHydro, mid & rear PTO, power beyond, R4 tires, brush guard, working lights, air ride seat, cruise, iMatch, etc... pretty much loaded
- routine maint done by local JD dealer
- immaculate condition (garaged, washed, waxed)... the only damage to the tractor is that the mounting bracket for the draw bar is broken off... doesn't affect anything but the draw bar, but it is a broken tab on the trans housing so I don't think it's a simple fix.

JD 300 CX Loader w/ HD bucket

JD 448 backhoe w/ HD bucket (<20 hours on it)

JD MX5 rotary cutter (<20 hours on it)

Frontier HD box blade (<40 hours on it)

Everything above was bought new in may of '07.

Frontier PHD (bought used... not sure of hours but looks good)

Any idea what I can expect to get if I sell privately in the Portland, OR area? Should I try to sell through the dealer so they can finance it for someone? It has to go so I hope I don't lose my shirt on it. I still owe about $8k on the loan.

Thanks,
Nathan

 

[AndyMA]

2 Questions? How much routine maintenance besides 50 hour service has been done?

How did mounting tab for rear draw bar break? This obviously took a lot of force and would make me suspicious of entire tractor. I will be that to repair it you need to replace either a rear axle housing or a differential housing. In either case a multi thousand dollar repair. I would say about 20-30% less than you paid plus a subtraction for draw bar issue.

Andy

 

[radman1]

I sold my cabbed 2006 3720 about 1 month ago privately. Equipped with most options, FEL and about 375 hours. In excellent condition. Sold for about 20-22% of new on craigslist. I think you should consider fixing the drawbar first. Most buyers won't even consider buying it unless the price is incredibly cheap. Get an estimate on repairs. If the bolts are stripped out, maybe just need to have someone retap and repair that way of the cost is high.

I would guess about a 20% hit on the equipment from new price.

I sold mine directly and bought a bigger JD. Dealer offered to finance my 3720 for the new buyer. The load rate through Ag Credit was about 5-5.5%. If I had traded it in, the hit would have been 33-45% depending on the dealer.

 

[Tongy]

Nathen
Go to tractorhouse.com There are 2 pages of them listed all over the country. It will give you a idea of where to start on price.
That is a great site to just see stuff and get comparable prices.

 

[Nathan_OR]

Thanks for the tips... I'll look around and see what I might get for it.

To answer the question, I broke the drawbar by hooking a chain to the little u-shaped bracket that the draw bar goes through, and trying to pull the tractor out of the mud with a winch. It snapped with very little force, I guess because it didn't have a pin through it, but instead was being levered (imagine hooking only to the bottom of the bracket with a chain, it is twisting the bolts, instead of pulling on the top AND bottom together). I have no reason to lie on this forum, so believe me when I said it took almost no force... the tractor didn't even start to move in the mud and plink the thing broke. I couldn't believe how easily it broke! I just re-attached the chain to the iMatch box, and pulled it free of the mud quite easily.

Yes, it would probably be expensive to repair, but I never use the drawbar anyway so I didn't have it fixed. Hopefully the buyer won't care, as it doesn't affect anything else.

 

[JANDG]

Glad I read this as I was just talinkg to my mother yesterday on how the one thing I will not use on my 3032e is the drawbar because to me by looking that it is not the place to be pulling from on these aluminum cased machines & looking for trouble in that area. I will use my 3pt mounted draw bar with D ring, etc ..& keep it below axle when pulling, the dign is much better in the 3pt area & has a perpose built in designed rod that will break before all else. I am sure yours is aluminum cased as mine is & I am fairly sure it is designed for all 3 holes to be used at the same time . Can you post a pic of the bottom of caseing only so I can see the area compared to 3032E, Are you out of warranty..?
Joe