Any woodworkers?

[SJay]

After I put the stain on my project, I will put 1 coat of thinned shellac. I can then use a water base poly or an oil based poly. I usually apply 3-4 coats of oiled based with the last coat being thinned. Good luck - as someone else said - patience. Take your time, the items you make are going to be around for a long time, don't rush the finishing (been there and got the hat and t-shirt:laughing

 

[bigtiller]

I'm not to picky and a little impatient so I am satisfied with 3 coats of Watco Danish Oil and a good coat of Minwax wood paste wax. Everything gets rubbed on, no brushes needed. Also, here is a great magazine for woodworkers;

Three great finishes (that aren't polyurethane)

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I'm a watco danish oil and or tung oil person.

 

[EddieWalker]

I prefer oil for outdoors projects. Just rub it on and your done.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm not to picky and a little impatient so I am satisfied with 3 coats of Watco Danish Oil and a good coat of Minwax wood paste wax. Everything gets rubbed on, no brushes needed. Also, here is a great magazine for woodworkers;

Three great finishes (that aren't polyurethane)

Indeed a good magazine. I subscribe.

 

[teejk01]

I use MinWax stain/sealers for color. Then decision time...if the surface will not be subject to abuse then Johnson's paste wax. If it will be subject to abuse then MinWax water-based poly. The problem with poly is that white residue it leaves when knocked down...not a problem with paste wax. And when water based poly is required, I cheat! I give the stain the requisite time but I apply the poly in several coats allowing no more than 1 hour drying time between coats...AND I use steel wool ("bless me MinWax for I have sinned" according to your directions).

 

[PILOON]

Me too. a Minwax stain and Danish oil guy.

My favorite finish is Danish oil and I actually apply it with a sponge and don't even bother to remove sawdust as I simply wring the sponge.
I have Oil finished many small items with great results, usually 3 coats.
Have done entire room walls that were pine using the sponge technique where the main goal was to seal the wood.
Brushes always seem to leave streaks while oil and sponge does not.
I have done floors, walls and small items with Danish oil and simply said, swear by it.
(bonus= no brushes to clean or guns to clean, just toss the sponge)

Might add that Minwax danish oil can be ordered tinted (like walnut, oak,pine etc)

 

[Deere Dude]

I built a ton of cabinets for two houses because I am kind of cheap. What works for me is to stain with a Minwax stain, wait a day then use Polycrylic which is a water based covering.

I get in a hurry and am impatient but with a water-based sealer I can be done with the thing 4-5 hours after the stain is dry enough to varnish.

 

[Sonny580]

I have used poly. for indoor items, and it takes 3-6 coats with waiting/sanding between coats. The end look is,---well----10 feet deep!! LOL!!!---really like looking into super clear/deep water!

I make my own lumber, (all sizes and length's), from trees mostly small to med., (don't get many big logs), but I am equipped to handle any size or length!! Thanks; sonny580

 

[Budweiser John]

Impatient. The curse of every project.

I've been building and wood working my entire life and over time have learned a project is only half done when the tools are put away and it's time to apply a finish to your masterpiece. Granted, the scope of the work dictates the quality of finish required but I have seen countless examples of great carpentry/cabinet work that looked like c--p and some examples of pretty poor wood working skills that looked pretty darn good due to the hand of a skilled painter or wood finisher.

My finish choices. Sorry west coast guys but nitrocellulose lacquer is my choice for furniture and high end architural built ins. Easy to apply and fairly easy to touch up if necessary. Next in line is tongue oil and a great finish it is. Simply rag it on, sand it in, repete two or more times and you'll end up with a beautiful smooth finish a fly would need FAA clearance to land on. A great finish natural (unstained) wood
As far as I'm concerned, polyurethane is best left on the shelf at Home Desperate.


B John