Arborist question (remove 3 smaller trunks of a Cedar tree)

[Sodo]

Large Cedar tree with 5 trunks. I want to remove the 3 smaller trunks to reduce the size of the tree. It's 8 feet from the house.

Removing these 3 trunks is a task well within my abilities and equipment. My sawmill is eyeing the bigger one hungrily and may gnaw on the smaller one too. The 3 chosen trunks are from 6 to 12 inches diameter and pose no significant danger while felling. It won't change the appearance of the tree (much). The 2 remaining trunks are 15" & 24".

I need advice on what's best for the health of the tree.

- Season to cut?
- Std practice to angle the final cut?
- Cut all at once or stagger the times to let the tree take a rest?
- Other concerns?

 

[Cord]

Honestly, I'd leave it be or take the whole thing out. I don't see a way to remove one stem and not introduce wound that won't lead to rot. Cedar trees don't shed branches, split stems or drop large quantities of seed so as long as it was well rooted I wound't be worried about it's proximity to the house.

 

[davesl708]

Cedars are very robust trees. Just try getting rid of them.
Just cut during the dormant time. Late fall, winter or very early spring. There are treatments that can help prevent disease.

 

[CobyRupert]

Here's my :2cents:

- Season to cut? Those 3 days between bitter winter, summer swelter and black fly season. I don't think it really matters since you will essentially be killing (that portion of) the tree. i.e. only affecting that which you're removing, it's not like your pruning a fruit tree and want the branches to grow back, then the season might be important. Although I guess if you leave an angle on the stump it will help water drain instead of a flat surface for it to puddle and induce rot. But I'd make this cut on the stump after you do the felling.

- Std practice to angle the final cut? - Horizontal, an inch or so above the hinge on your open face cut. I assume you realize the back cut does nothing to direct the fall. The fall direction is largely a function of the natural lean of the tree and how you cut/direct the wedge/hinge.

- Cut all at once or stagger the times to let the tree take a rest? - I doubt it makes a difference

- Other concerns? I'd paint over, or coat by some other means, the "stumps" left on the tree so that the cuts don't provide a means for insects to bore into the living tree.

 

[Sodo]

Want to let more light in to landscape the area. Tree is healthy and attractive and I sure don't want to introduce rot. Cord since I got my sawmill I don't see trees anymore all I see is boards (not cords) :laughing: Most of the reason I want to do this is it seems do-able in 2 or 3 steps, and the trunks are only gonna get bigger if nothing is done.

Pretty sure I know which way each trunk is going to fall! :laughing: But only if I climb the tree and cut the tangled branches up on top.

I paid $17 to an arborist on JustAnswer.com and they replied:

- estimate 1/3 of the tree and don't cut more than 1/3 of the tree per season
- cut now late winter/early spring is the right time/season.
- since doing it yourself consider cutting half now and half next year since all 3 trunks might be about 1/3 of the tree
- angle the 'stumps' so they drain water
- don't seal the cut, but consider treating cut with a fungicide that's made for trees

 

[Tompet]

Want to let more light in to landscape the area. Tree is healthy and attractive and I sure don't want to introduce rot. Cord since I got my sawmill I don't see trees anymore all I see is boards (not cords) :laughing: Most of the reason I want to do this is it seems do-able in 2 or 3 steps, and the trunks are only gonna get bigger if nothing is done.

Pretty sure I know which way each trunk is going to fall! :laughing: But only if I climb the tree and cut the tangled branches up on top.

I paid $17 to an arborist on JustAnswer.com and they replied:

- estimate 1/3 of the tree and don't cut more than 1/3 of the tree per season
- cut now late winter/early spring is the right time/season.
- since doing it yourself consider cutting half now and half next year since all 3 trunks might be about 1/3 of the tree
- angle the 'stumps' so they drain water
- don't seal the cut, but consider treating cut with a fungicide that's made for trees

I think that was pretty good advice you received, similar to what is recommended for thinning lilac bushes and I've used a similar 1/3 approach on someone's overgrown yews to assure I was not going to harm them even knowing you can be very aggressive with them.
To be conservative on the initial cuts, what about just removing the smaller left and right stems and leaving the larger central ones in place? Aesthetically it would look good, though hard to judge area with the photo. And being away from central core of tree may be less of a risk to health of tree which was your initial concern.
Good luck and enjoy making lumber!

I just saw Tractor Seabees post with all his good points on your area...8' from house would be a concern, but it sounds like you know and have ability to make right decision.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Sodo, it is a shame to whack into these beautiful old cedars but a guy has to what he feels best and safe. If it was not close to your house I would be condemning you, but in this case I hold my tongue. As mentioned earlier cedars are not prone to shedding branches or breaking off like other species. But, up where you live you have to worry about lightning; that gets scary. From appearance I assume it has grown very tall. I logged off 15 acres that had several old cedars 3-4' across and they were as tall as the firs; worth a lot as saw logs with all their clear lumber.

We have a large old cedar (away from the house) that has many large low branches that spread out horizontal and it is not very tall. Must be 200 years old as the base is over 8' across. Grand-kids love to climb in it, some all the way to the top (40').

Be careful, we do not want to see your obituary.

Ron

 

[EddieWalker]

I learned the hard way that it is never worth the effort trying to save a tree that is in the wrong spot. I've spent tons of money, spent untold hours working around a tree trying to protect it, and even rerouting roads, fences and the location of buildings to work around existing trees that I liked. In every case, I wish that I had just taken the tree out and never dealt with it. I've realized that no matter how nice or old the tree is, once I remove it, I don't miss it or even think about it again.

Take it all the way out. Don't risk getting hurt trying to save part of it. Don't waste your time trying to save part of it. Even if you do everything perfect, there is a very good chance that it is going to die on you anyway. Then what?

 

[Gary Fowler]

I doubt you will hurt that cedar tree, they are extremely hard to kill and also extremely resistant to rot. It looks like you are only trimming some sprouts that should have been excised when they came out many year ago but weren't. It looks like the main trunk has 3 large spurs. You may want to consider leaving all three but take the two small spurs from each side. Any way you cut it, it is going to look a little wanky for a year or two till the trees that are left fill in the gaps which they will start to do in a short time.

I have been trimming up some cedars along my road frontage for the last 6 years trying to keep the limbs from hanging down too much to mow under without getting a collar full of cedar leaves. I also took off any spurs from them early on with no damage to the trees. Of course none were as big as what you have.
Also of note is that Cedars do shed their leaves although it isn't noticeable in a forest but is on roof tops and I suspect that you have a bunch of dead leaves on top of your house from these trees. These can be a problem for shingles roofs and can cause leaks even on metal roofed houses.

 

[Sodo]

If I were to take if out you would surely read my obituary. "A homeowner was killed a few hours after removing a beautiful tree.... Neighbors described the wife as a loving person who was fairly rigid about certain things, such as her landscaping...."

It looks like you are only trimming some sprouts that should have been excised when they came out many year ago but weren't.

This is the crux of it. If I take these 3 trunks off now it will be many more years before it's really too big to be near the house. Should have done it 15 years ago but things were different back then. Some other poor sucker can take it out someday if he doesn't like it (or it it starts to pose a danger to the house). It's a nice tree, looks nice next to the house, and simply needs some attention.....as long as I don't cause more problems than I solve.