Are auger-to-auger bit fitments universal?

[beppington]

A good machine shop with the correct size Hydraulic press probably could straighten the auger enough to be usable again. bjr

I might try that. It's not busy doing anything else :laughing: In fact, after we straightened it to what you see there, we tried it in another hole, & it actually worked OK; just that it was making the hole much bigger than we need, just like the old 9" bit it replaced.

 

[bullbreaker]

Bepp:I know you know this but I'am going to say it.
Keep a "COOL" head and play "SAFE' ! :thumbsup:

Boone

 

[beppington]

Bepp:I know you know this but I'am going to say it.
Keep a "COOL" head and play "SAFE' ! :thumbsup:

Boone

Thanks Boone! I think I do. When I bent the first bit, I wasn't mad or anything; I was just doing what I thought at the time was required to get it up out of the hole. I actually didn't even realize it was bending the bit. It wasn't until thinking about it later that I realized I could've tried reversing it by hand, which I did successfully with the 2nd bit :thumbsup:

Oh, & we don't get too close to the auger while it's working. Our new method is to start each hole with post hole diggers, basically a "pilot hole", until we hit clay (only about 6" deep where we are now ), & then let the auger take it from there. With the PTO off, my dad guides the auger bit into the hole, steps back away from it, & then I turn the PTO on & bore the hole.

Also, at all times I keep one hand on the 3PH lever & the other lightly touching the "PTO off" button. My L3940's PTO control is a knob/ button combo - Turn it clockwise for "on", & tap it for "off".

Thanks for the warning/ concern :thumbsup: I don't think we're in any danger, though.

(In hindsight I should've titled this thread "My Auger Saga" )

 

[zene55]

I did the exact same thing, rocking my tractor to unstick my auger. I have a small bend in mine also. I am considering using heat to bend it back in place. Heat up one side and rapidly cool it with water to bend it. I also realized that I could have backed it out by hand to late. I was thinking of unbolting the auger from the PHD and using a pipe wrench to turn it backwards.

After the first time I stuck mine I started a new routine. Drill some then lift the bit and repeat. As soon as it bits and digs in I jerk the 3pt up and pull the bit out of the hole. Has worked well in my rocky soil.

 

[beppington]

I did the exact same thing, rocking my tractor to unstick my auger. I have a small bend in mine also. I am considering using heat to bend it back in place. Heat up one side and rapidly cool it with water to bend it. I also realized that I could have backed it out by hand to late. I was thinking of unbolting the auger from the PHD and using a pipe wrench to turn it backwards.

After the first time I stuck mine I started a new routine. Drill some then lift the bit and repeat. As soon as it bits and digs in I jerk the 3pt up and pull the bit out of the hole. Has worked well in my rocky soil.

Just what I'm doing now :thumbsup: ... Except I'm starting to recognize sooner when the bit's about to catch so I don't have to yank it up, just lift it a little to break that bit of clay free.

 

[cabover4us]

Just what I'm doing now ... Except I'm starting to recognize sooner when the bit's about to catch so I don't have to yank it up, just lift it a little to break that bit of clay free.

I was wondering if using concrete blocks with small pieces of 4 x 4 notched out in a V to hold both ends of auger bit. Looking at this from the seat of your tractor, it would appear to run into your radiator but stay with me, uncurl bucket point down and contact middle of bit use slight down pressure with someone watching as to not go too far....sorry if this has already been suggested.

 

[cabover4us]

My son was installing a large LED light in his dooryard so it would be lighted, and security. Rocky old driveway edge at bottom of moderate hill, needless to say my 855 John Deere was powerful enough to bore into the rocky ground, should have done what you suggested because tractor was pointing up in the air with Tyler still on it, tractor 3 point wasnt up to the job of pulling bit out at that depth. So two boobs digging, shovels, heavy bars, two extremely large pipe wrenches we finally extracted the bit, much sweat and energy was used for this oversight in the operation.....
Oops...

I was wondering if using concrete blocks with small pieces of 4 x 4 notched out in a V to hold both ends of auger bit. Looking at this from the seat of your tractor, it would appear to run into your radiator but stay with me, uncurl bucket point down and contact middle of bit use slight down pressure with someone watching as to not go too far....sorry if this has already been suggested.

 

[cabover4us]

One more question, I did buy the unit from TSC and bits are short, so trying to go 48" for frost is all but impossible. So earlier post I read said someone made extensions, I will measure today and maybe make 2, a 12" and 15" so depending on terrain and angle maybe one over the other would do. But my unit didnt come with a long handle mounted on the gearbox so to aim bit. My good friend bought his from everything attachments and came with handle. Do you guys and gals suggest I mount a handle? Would it add more ability to control drilling?

I was wondering if using concrete blocks with small pieces of 4 x 4 notched out in a V to hold both ends of auger bit. Looking at this from the seat of your tractor, it would appear to run into your radiator but stay with me, uncurl bucket point down and contact middle of bit use slight down pressure with someone watching as to not go too far....sorry if this has already been suggested.

 

[tookielee]

Dig a hole with the new bit just deep enough that the bend on
the old one is flush with top of ground. Drop old bit in hole,
and use a comealong attached to something solid to pull it back
straight. You'll never get it exact, but maybe usable.
I think machine shop would cost more than a new bit.