Auxiliary Hydraulics on LK3054

[DeNiro]

I have just acquired a PTO cement mixer that requires a single hydraulic hose to operate the dump cycle. I have read in my owner's manual that I have a "stopper" that I can remove and connect a single line to the implement and control it with the rear lift control. That seems to be the best way to work the mixer and I would like some help in determining how to do this. The manual is not real descriptive and indicates "PS 1/4" 13mm (i/2") thread depth for the "stopper" or the outlet thread. It is located beside the lift speed control right below and in front of the operator's seat
I am assuming that it is a 1/4" fitting that has a 1/2" thread depth. Would this be correct?
Would a quick connect be a good thing to use here? It may be in the way of my feet and comfort unless I add a hose. I don't know how often I'll use this mixer after I finish this current project.

 

[JoelD]

I am thinking float setting on the three point lift lever would allow for return on the single acting cyl? I understand directions to be, remove plug from under the three point lowering speed control knob. Attach hydraulic hose to that port. Not certain on thread, but makes sense what you wrote. Your three point control lever will then control flow to that port.

 

[DeNiro]

After reading many of the comments that others had about the same mixer I think it will be wise of me to invest in a double acting cylinder and use the hydraulics from the four way bucket control.
I also experimented briefly and found that I will be in sad shape with out the lift in service; concrete is very heavy and I think I will have to adjust the height a lot to keep the PTO in a better position to drive the unit as it is tipped. It appears to have a very sharp angle in the drive shaft when tipped even slightly.
I think a lot of problems occur when you try to build one unit to fit many different tractor configurations. I see some permanent modifications coming.

 

[JoelD]

That makes sense, could even run a dedicated valve, inline if you wanted to. Could attach towards the back of the machine, even off of the fender, that way you'd have control as you are back there loading and unloaded cement.

 

[jake98]

What would make you buy an attachment like that? I have a 1 bag (big) mixer and it runs on a 7hp briggs. You could rent one. That must be the silliest thing to use a tractor for, no?
I don't mean to be sarcastic but I just don't get that attachment... You're gonna have cement stuck to your tractor all over the place.
Jake

 

[JoelD]

I purchased an electric mixer, will handle 3 80 pound bags if pressed, two easy. Runs off of 110 and I paid 199 from harbor freight, works great.

I happen to have a generator that would run it no problem out in the field.

Another option to think about.

Joel

 

[dfkrug]

I have just acquired a PTO cement mixer that requires a single hydraulic hose to operate the dump cycle. I have read in my owner's manual that I have a "stopper" that I can remove and connect a single line to the implement and control it with the rear lift control. That seems to be the best way to work the mixer and I would like some help in determining how to do this.

Control the SA cylinder with the rear lift control? I don't get that. You
don't have the Power Beyond setup for your Kioti TLB? No AUX valves
either? Time to go with one or the other, IMO. Anyway, you can power
a SA cyl with a normal DA valve by capping off one work port and
allowing the tractor to pump thru the relief valve briefly. But the SA cyl
approach to PTO mixing is really crappy. I tried it with my MIXER80, before
I converted the cyl to DA. I love my mixer and have prob done 150 loads,
some at max cap of 1/3cy. Great for little jobs, not a replacement for
readi-mix trucks.

 

[DeNiro]

I've been pretty busy mixing concrete for the last few days. As suggested, I did convert the mixer to a double acting cylinder and it couldn't have worked better. I needed the lift to make everything work well.
I was very lucky with this purchase. The original owner was a little bit ignorant about the equipment and did not shorten the PTO shaft enough and before it mixed the first shovel of concrete he drove the shaft into the chain drive assemble and he considered the mixer nearly beyond repair. Bought it cheap and fixed it with a large, very large hammer to straighten all the steel. I traded the single acting cylinder back to the people that sold the unit for $169.00. I bought a new double acting cylinder, hoses, couplings and quick attachments, oil, four large wrenches, two ratchets some misc. stuff and they still owed me $13+ credit on the return.
I had to weld a higher positioned bracket on the mixer to make the new cylinder work correctly, and cut the PTO shaft to the correct length, but that was all worth it. I used the quick attachments from my four way bucket on the front end loader to drive the cylinder.
It has mixed over 3 yards flawlessly and it is so easy to use and clean. I did expect a lot of splatter on the tractor, but I got so little that the rain washed it clean.
I have used other electric mixers in years past and they don't compare in IMO. I use crush and run to make cement and this works very well. It has just the right mix of fines and course material to make good concrete and the process is pretty easy; 5 shovels of material to 1 shovel of cement. You can mix, dump and place about 1/3 yard in 5 minutes, but I have been pouring from a bucket to fill block cavities and it takes longer.