axle pivot seal leak

[B2400]

Hello All!
Once again I've encountered a troubling problem and am seeking your infinite wisdom! I've developed an oil leak at the front axle to Bi-speed turn pivot point. I have removed the front trunion carrier and the only seal in it was an O-ring. This one was easy to remove,unfortuneatly not the one leaking. I spoke to a mechanic at the local dealership and I(mis) understood that the entire front axle should pull out from the case to gain access to the rear O-ring(front pinion was to be slip splined to an internal gear on Bi-speed unit). After much carefull pulling,prying and cussing it appears this is not the case. Has anyone had one of these apart that can shine some light on my darkening mood? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Rover]

how to remove front axle from WSM

drain oil from axle

Bi-speed turn cable -remove spring lock pin and loosen lock nuts, then remove cable

Propellar shaft- loosen clamp and slide cover to rear, tap out spring pin and slide coupling to the rear

Drag link-steer front wheels to left, remove splines of the propellar shaft

front axle- place jack under clutch houseing and jack under front axle, remove wheels, remove front axle brackets (front and rear) mounting screws. seprate front axle from frame

dissambly of front axle
remove bi-speed turn rod, remove slotted nut and disconnect the tie-rod from the gear case, remove bevel gear case and front gear case as a unit

separation of bi-speed turn case
remove the bi-speed turn case mounting screw and separate the bi-speed turn case from the bi-speed turn gear case

shift cam
remove case cover and the shift lever and shift cam, remove external snap ring and collar, remove shift lever.

shift roller shaft
remove cover, remove the nut and the shift roller shaft assembly, tap out the shift roller shaft, while holding the bearing to remove teh shift roller, the retaining ring is mounted inside the roller,

shift fork, shift rod and change lever,
push the shift fork to the front till the spring pin can be seen and tap out the spring pin. remove the cap and tap out the shift rod to the front. tap out spring pin. tap out the shift rod collar by the rod to the front. take off the shift fork, springs, and pressure collar together. tap out the spring pin using the screw hole for the fulcrum mounting screw on the case. remove the change lever and change fork.

separation of bi-speed turn gear case
remove the bi-speed tunr gear case mounting screws. separate the gear case from the bearing holder

ball bearing and oil seal
remove the oil seal and remove the external snap ring and thrust collar. tap out the gear shaft. remove the internal snap ring and remove ball bearing from the bi-speed turn gear case. remove the ball bearing form the gear case.

bi-speed turn clutch assembly
put back the stakes of the nut and remove it. pull out the ball bearing with a puller and remove the plain washer shift callar and shifter. remove the bi-speed turn coupling, clutch disc, friction plates, and bi-speed turn clutch drum. remove thrust collar, bi-speed turn gear and inner ring from the clutch drum.
remove the gear shaft.

you should now be left with a bunch of pieces that looks like humpty dumpty.

rover

 

[B2400]

Thanks for the input and detailed instructions. I'm heading out to the shop now to wave the magic wand at it and hope I cast the correct spell!! Again,Thanks Rover! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif



Mike Allen

 

[B2400]

Update: Reassembled axle/bi-speed assembly last night and filled with oil this morning(waited for case sealer goop to cure!). Brush hogged for a couple of hours today and as of 9PM no oil leak(yet)! Kubota sure made that one tough just to replace a $1.60 o-ring.

 

[Pks]

Was that o-ring part of the Bi-speed system?

 

[B2400]

The front axle has two " Trunions" or pivot tubes on the axle housing, one front and one rear. The front is enclosed be a sturdy casting which the axle pivots in and is mounted to the frame with two large bolts. The rear fits into the Bi-speed case. The case must be removed with the axle and then split on the bench to gain access to the front clutch and drive gear assembly. This unit is held onto the pinion shaft by a 24mm nut that is a real bearcat to retorque when reassembling. Anyway, the cluster must be removed to pull the front case off which exposes the $1.60 o-ring that is located on the rear pivot "trunion" attached to the axle. The axle doesn't pivot on bearings and as there is no oil on the top of this pivot point mine was showing some galling on both the axle and the case which it pivots in. Definitely not over engineered but it apparently works. I really thought Kubota would use a bearing and seal arrangement here for reliability as this is a real pain to fix. O-ring wasn't cracked or split and showed very little evidence of flattening. Tractor had 925hrs on it when it began leaking. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[Pks]

Hmm, I think I understand now what you went through. Thanks for the details.

 

[tomf]

The front axle has two " Trunions" or pivot tubes on the axle housing, one front and one rear. The front is enclosed be a sturdy casting which the axle pivots in and is mounted to the frame with two large bolts. The rear fits into the Bi-speed case. The case must be removed with the axle and then split on the bench to gain access to the front clutch and drive gear assembly. This unit is held onto the pinion shaft by a 24mm nut that is a real bearcat to retorque when reassembling. Anyway, the cluster must be removed to pull the front case off which exposes the $1.60 o-ring that is located on the rear pivot "trunion" attached to the axle. The axle doesn't pivot on bearings and as there is no oil on the top of this pivot point mine was showing some galling on both the axle and the case which it pivots in. Definitely not over engineered but it apparently works. I really thought Kubota would use a bearing and seal arrangement here for reliability as this is a real pain to fix. O-ring wasn't cracked or split and showed very little evidence of flattening. Tractor had 925hrs on it when it began leaking. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I was hoping you could help by giving me advice on replacing the o-ring on the front axle seal.

I have a repair manual. I understand the axle and the bi-speed unit are together when the front axle is removed. What I need to know is what is the procedure in splitting the axle from the bi-speed unit. It appears to me that the rear "trunion" (as you called it) needs to be removed to access the o-ring. My manual does not explain how to do that. Because as I look at the parts manual it appears that nothing is holding the front axle to the front axle holder (trunion) and it should just slide off. See below. Does the front clutch and drive gear assembly need to be removed before the front axle holder can be removed? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Tom

View attachment b2400 bi-speed front axle.pdf

 

[B2400]

Sorry for delay in reply...I haven't been on site for some time. The clutch assy and gears do need to be removed in order to pull housing away from axle housing. I would strongly recommend finding an o-ring that is slightly "thicker" than the original. I found one at a local hydraulic cylinder rebuilder that was a little bigger and it helped seal better/longer than the original. Unfortunately, it seems as this has become an annual thing for me..the amount of wear makes it difficult to keep sealed..I really want a new B2650!!