B2400 Hydraulic Oli Leak

[eph]

I have a B2400 with 370 hours on it. After bush hogging fields today for a couple of hours I noticed an oil leak - drops comming from the bottom of the rear axle on the right hand side of the tractor looking forward. The oil appears to be leaking when the tractor is running,and it looks like it is coming from high up under the seat. Any suggestions? Is it likely to be a loose hydraulic line?

Thanks,

Eph

 

[wushaw]

Line or gasket is most likely. Clean it up real good, lift the seat and use a strong flashlight. Hopefully it is something simple.

 

[btolle]

Most likely a loose fitting. One likely culprit is the return line. This is a low pressure rubber line with hose clamps on it. I have had a leak on the old B7100 and the new B7510 on the return line. A quick tightening with a screwdriver or small socket stopped it in both cases.

Throw a piece of cardboard under the tractor and watch for oil dripping on the cardboard. That helps locate the leak. In my case cardboard was unnecessary since I noticed the leak while parked on the concrete driveway.

Bill Tolle

 

[8561]

This may seem crazy, but the hydro oil fill plug is up high under the seat. If it is not firmly pressed in place, it could leak around there. However given you said it is more prevelant when the tractor is running, it probably is a line somewhere. It may have been poked by a stick, etc.

 

[TractorTodd]

Part #6C040-39216 is a common item to fail on your model.
It is item #100 in the attachment.

 

[Pks]

My B2400 broke that delivery pipe at the banjo bolt. This pipe is a high pressure line. It's about $100 new. I still have my old one around with a crack in it waiting to get fixed by a local welder. On mine, the weld cracked.

If this is the problem for you, get a couple of new banjo bolts and crush washers when you replace the line. You cannot reuse the old crush washer; it will leak. The top of the banjo bolt will break off easily if you over torque it. Torque it exactly to the specifications listed in the manual.

To replace the line, you must remove the fender, seat, pedal linkage and deck. It's easy, but involves time. The hardest part was getting the pedal linkages back together. Take a photo or draw them before disassembling them.

By the way, the part number listed by TractorTodd is the correct number for the B2400. A new pipe may have a different shape to it back by the banjo bolt; mine did.

Oh by the way, mine broke a couple of years ago. At the time, I had about 380 hours on the clock. So I'd say, yours broke right on schedule. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[eph]

Thanks for the great information. When yours broke, was it a slow leak or was it a spray? I can not see a spray, but there is a little trickle of oil when the tractor is running.

It seems like this is really the only oil line that it could be - nothing else is that high up.

Have you had any other problems with your B2400? Mine has run like a top for years - all seasons and all conditions.

Eph

 

[Pks]

Hi Eph,

When mine broke, there was no spray, just a little drip. I found it with my nose; super UDT is stinky. You might be able to locate it exactly if while running the engine for a while (like mowing) so everything gets nice and warm, swipe a paper towel around the weld near the banjo bolt.

You are correct, this is the only line that high up. Unless a lift arm seal is bad, but I'll doubt that.

That has been my only problem. I have noted that pressure can build up in the front axle and force oil to come out of the lower spindle bearing seals. Taking the cap off and letting the pressure equalize fixes the problem. Since that started last January, I am now more careful about washing the dirt away from the spindle seals. I don't want any dirt to work its way inward an foul the mating surfaces. I suspect that may have been an initial cause for the seal to leak, but that's only a guess. I'll replace the seals when they leak without the aid of air pressure.

I have noticed that the rubber covers on the power steering spherical joints have spit open. I ignore it.

The original battery is still alive and kinkin.

I had to replace the FEL lift are float detent cap, spring and retaining balls. Ice built up and broke the cap. I open the cap and let the water out monthly during the winter.

Watch for loose axle bolts (only two). I'm refering to the large bolt that clamps the hub to the axle. Each bolt has two, 2-sided clamping nuts. If the clamping nuts get loose they will deform and the hub will rock while driving. Sometimes the hub squeaks. If this occurs, you can flip the clamping nuts upside down (they are double sided) thus giving a new clamping surface. Whatch out for the bolts though. I think they are a bit softer than they should be. Or maybe the nut is a bit soft (not sure there). Either way, make sure the axle surfaces are fairly clean before retightening the bolt.

If you have the FEL and the joystick is noisey due to rattling, take the linkages apart and fill the gaps with nylon washers. Use a new retaining ring when putting it all back together. The older one tends to weaken with repeated removal.

Do you have repair and parts manuals? I have them in both paper copy for the garage as well as PDF for the computer. If you need them in PDF, I'll send them.

 

[nfisheremti]

trying to resurrect an old thread. i have almost the same leak. looks like it's just the crush washers (i'll find out for sure when i put the silly thing back together). pks stated above, not to over torque the bolt, but i can't find the correct torque anywhere. does anybody know what its supposed to be?

thanks.

 

[B2400]

I recently had a similar issue. Oil dripping from right ,lower housing. I tightened the return fitting bolts about 3/4 turn each and that eliminated the leak.