B3000 Adding Work Lights - AMPS Question

[TimP]

HI All.

I have a B3000 and am in the process of installing some LD worklights.

The OEM Halogen lights were 55 watts each, which should be about 4.5 amps x2 = 9 AMPS

The new lights I am replacing them with draw 6.3 Amps each x2 = 12.6 AMPS.

My question is: What is the wire gauge running to the lights? 14 AWG ?

I just want to be sure I don't draw too much for the wire size.

I am putting a set in the front as well as the rear.

I did see some really heavy duty LED lights, but they draw 19 AMPS Each, so I think they are out of the question to use.

I think th lights I have (at 6.3 amps) would be fine.

Any comments?

Thanks.....

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Any reputable parts house like NAPA can fix you up with the right size wire and fuses and any other ancillary parts. If we arm chair this you will possibly be unhappy. Be sure and go armed with all the pertinent information

Ron

 

[rScotty]

Most headlights are activated by a relay. You should check that too. Hopefully yours has relays & will have the amps rating printed on the headlight relays.

I don't know what size the wiring is in the B3000, but I've wired a bunch of tractors & trucks. Typically the wire running from the battery+ to the relay and then on to work the lights is about 2 to 3 times the diameter of the signal wire that runs between the light switch and the headlight relay.

For tractor wiring distances, I'd feel comfortable running 12 to 15 amps through 14 AWG wire. I like to use stranded wire just because it is flexible and I like the way the end fittings work. There's a pretty good argument that stranded wire is more reliable long term for wiring that vibrates or sees weather. For DC systems the ability to carry amperage is the same whether the wire is stranded or solid.
rScotty

 

[moship]

"I did see some really heavy duty LED lights, but they draw 19 AMPS Each, so I think they are out of the question to use."

Wow 19 amps for LED lights! The must be exceptionally bright and far exceed the light output of a 55W halogen one. I've used some really cheap LEDs on my tractors and the measured current was about half the actual claimed rating. This was over several different brands of varying output.

The simple square frame 27 watt LED will far exceed the light output of your headlights using far less output than what the package claims. The reduce amperage will be easier on the electrical system requiring simpler wiring and not stress the low amperage output of the alternator (or dyno).

Example light referenced above (There are many others to choose from): https://www.amazon.com/TMH-60-Motor...ed+flood+lamp&qid=1568030626&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Since it wasn't mentioned yet. Buy a switch rated to carry DC loads. This will be of greater importance if a relay is not used.

 

[TimP]

Hi All.

Thanks for all of the help and comments.

To clarify.... I am installing/replacing "worklights" on the front and back of the B3000.

The only other thing I will change out are the headlights bulbs, which I already know will draw aout the same amperage as the existing headlight bulbs.

FYI... the worklights I saw that draw 19 Amps were 20,000 raw lumens EACH !!!! Ya... a freakin' huge amount.

They are the Rigid "Q" series.

I have ruled out using them due to both the amp draw AND the price.... which is about $625 each !

There are independent switches for the front worklights and rear worklights, but no relays.

And the wire is stranded. not solid. Stranded wire is a must when used in any application where it may be subject to vibration.

I just wish the AWG were smaller (= thicker).

I am going to proceed with the installation of the lamps that draw 12 Amps per "set". (Two in front, and two in the rear).

If they start tripping/blowing fuses, I have some smaller LED lights that only draw a little more than 4 AMPs each, which the original OEM ights drew.

Thanks again for the help !

 

[skipperbrown]

Make sure the alternator is going to provide enough wattage for your installation. I have a b2650 and the alternator output is darn pitiful. I think it is just about maxed out with the oem equipment.

 

[TimP]

Make sure the alternator is going to provide enough wattage for your installation. I have a b2650 and the alternator output is darn pitiful. I think it is just about maxed out with the oem equipment.

Should be no Problem.... the Alternator in the B3000 is a high output 60 AMP.

Thanks !

 

[radios1]

Should be no Problem.... the Alternator in the B3000 is a high output 60 AMP.

Thanks !

I'd just run a new circuit for the lights using 10 gauge wire. it's so simple, just follow the wiring that is there already, why settle for low light intensity?. the 10 gauge wire can handle 30 amps, and will give you a lower voltage drop than 12 gauge, if the switches give problems handling the current, either find 30 amp or higher rated switches, or use a relay for each circuit!.. use the switches to operate the relays.. what you are looking at is 173.88 watts per pair of lights, LEDS give out about 6X the wattage input, so you'll get the equivalent of a 1043.28 watt incandescent bulb!. NICE!..

 

[TimP]

I'd just run a new circuit for the lights using 10 gauge wire. it's so simple, just follow the wiring that is there already, why settle for low light intensity?. the 10 gauge wire can handle 30 amps, and will give you a lower voltage drop than 12 gauge, if the switches give problems handling the current, either find 30 amp or higher rated switches, or use a relay for each circuit!.. use the switches to operate the relays.. what you are looking at is 173.88 watts per pair of lights, LEDS give out about 3X the wattage input, so you'll get the equivalent of a 521.64 watt incandescent bulb!. NICE!..

Yes, If I have to, I can run some heavier gauge wire.

But it's not straight forward since I have a cap and the wiring runs from the dash. up thru the roof, and to the switches and then to the outside.

I'm hoping what is in place will suffice.....

 

[chim]

I've been using Maxxima MWL-42's. Plenty of light and they just sip electrons.