B3030 Review

[Lindy]

It really is as simple as it sounds, and literally takes me 2-3 minutes consistently at this point. It is far simpler and repeatable than I ever thought it would be, and since it is so easy, I NEVER mow anymore with the loader on...

Regarding attaching/detaching the loader:

This was my experience exactly. It was hard the first time or two, but now I can do it very quickly, and like you I never mow with the loader on anymore.

It may not seem easy the first time, but believe me -- after you do it 10 or 20 times it is second nature.

 

[ChuckinNH]

I've been trying to avoid this discussion, but I do have some input. Kubota's attachments are some of the best intergrated in the CUT market. Now, before anyone gets up in arms about that consider these points. The reason that Kubota backhoes don't work with cab models is that they are designed to sit as closely to the tractor as possible. The design intent here is to keep the whole assembly as well balanced as possible, and to spread the forces the backhoe creates evenly to the tractor frame. Since aftermarket hoes are designed to fit a variety of tractors this can't be done, and they end up adding weight to the front of the tractor in many cases to offset those forces, and the extra overhang they have in the rear. (See pic of Bh70x installation weights) That extra power, and strength comes at a price. In this regard, I think that Kubota, and Honda are very close in design philosophy. Other attachments like mid mounted mowers, front quick hitch attachments, etc. are sized for the tractor they go on, and are very well intergrated. See how many tractors there are out there that can be delivered with the loader, quick hitch (with front blade, snowblower, etc. installed), and backhoe all mounted at the same time. Or loader, backhoe, and mmm for example. The Kubota tractors we are talking about are not heavy tractors, and I think that Kubota engineers understand very well how the forces the implements produce impact the integrity of the tractor itself.

There is another side of the coin of course, and like Honda, Kubota engineers often make arbitrary decisions about what is important to the customer, and how that impacts the cost of things that JD for example might well add. The light in the cab, 1/4 inching, and those kind of things are examples. It is a basic "lean manufacturing", or "Toyota principle" form of manufacturing / design philosophy that is deemed necessary to be successful in a manufacturing environment these days. Some companies have developed graphs that show the things customers request down the left side, and the cost associated with providing them along the bottom. Where those lines cross is deemed the cut off point for features offered on those products. Consumers can influence those options greatly by letting the manufacturer know that those things "affect my buying choice". Believe me, manufacturers will listen when they know that.

Other companies provide more "features", more advertised "strength", heavier designs, etc. on any particular attachment. They have to to gain market share, and will take risks to accomplish that. If we think about the design of Kubota tractors WITHIN the design philosophy embraced by that company ( light, strong, reliable, and well intergrated units with nothing not necessary to accomplish that goal) we find very little to complain about. There is absolutely no doubt that there are other well designed products out there, and the new Woods "X" series backhoes are great examples of those. The bottom line is that you pay your nickel, and make your own choice about what is important to you. I worked with engineers in a manufacturing environment for a very long time, and have made my choice.............

 

[Bizguy4u]

I have the benefit of a flat concrete floor, but detaching:

1) Start tractor
2) Lift loader so that bucket is about waist level
3) Get off tractor and lower loader support arms on each side of loader
4) Get back on tractor (I am maybe 30-45 seconds or so in at this point)
5) Tilt bucket down approx 30 degrees or so
6) Lower loader and unload or slightly lift front end of tractor, this should make the loader attach pins loose.
7) Pull pins on both sides. Adjust loader/tractor front end lift slightly if they are not coming out
8) Once pins are out, curl bucket and loader will detach from mount. Continue curl until the bucket is flat.
9) Turn off tractor
10) Wiggle loader control in all directions (I do a few quick circles) to relieve pressure
11) Disconnect quick connects on lines and place plugs

Back off and drive away.

Attaching is similar:

1) Drive up with things centered, and loader arm mounts a few inches from their mounting points
2) Turn off tractor and attach hydraulic hoses
3) Dump bucket to seat mounts
4) Adjust dump and/or lift front of tractor/unload it slightly and place pins in loader mounts. This sometimes requires a bit of fiddling, and is the hardest part
5) Lift loader
6) Get off tractor, and place support arms back in stowed position.

Drive away.

It really is as simple as it sounds, and literally takes me 2-3 minutes consistently at this point. It is far simpler and repeatable than I ever thought it would be, and since it is so easy, I NEVER mow anymore with the loader on...

Many thanks for taking the time to set that out!

Very helpful indeed. Thanks!

 

[Volfandt]

You know with opinions, everybody has one....
Haveing had some experience w/larger BH's as well as on my small BX23, I can see where Kubota made the decision not to add the factory BH option to their cabbed B3030 tractors.
To me it all has to do accessability and efficiency.
I like the room and operation of the large Case I operated, you just simply spin the seat around without moving off the seat and you're pointed backwards to operate the BH. No getting up to spin the seat or getting off of the drivers seat nor exiting the tractor station then climbing down and then up into the BH station. Just set it and forget it

W/the cabbed B3030 and an add-on BH, the first dig will be most comfortable and pleasurable but, it's the necessity of having to manuver around to complete the dig is where the problem arrises as I see it. To reposition you have to get down from the BH, open and enter the cab, reposition, get down and out of the cab then climb up and into the BH seat then lower the stabilizers etc,. I know in my case this would get VERY old with all the timeconsuming and very inefficient repositoning of both me and the tractor.

I've already modified my BX23 so I can drive it forward or in reverse whilst pointed backward facing the BH so I KNOW it would get very old to me to have to exit in/out of a cab from/to the BH just to manuver around. And w/the distance the either BH sits from the tractors controls this type of modification to the cabbed B3030 would be a taxing modification to say the least, if it is at all possible in the 1st place.
Course thats JMHO ;D

 

[Sully2]

..The Kubota tractors we are talking about are not heavy tractors, and I think that Kubota engineers understand very well how the forces the implements produce impact the integrity of the tractor itself.

There is another side of the coin of course, and like Honda, Kubota engineers often make arbitrary decisions about what is important to the customer, and how that impacts the cost of things that JD for example might well add. The light in the cab, 1/4 inching, and those kind of things are examples. It is a basic "lean manufacturing", or "Toyota principle" form of manufacturing / design philosophy that is deemed necessary to be successful in a manufacturing environment these days. Some companies have developed graphs that show the things customers request down the left side, and the cost associated with providing them along the bottom. Where those lines cross is deemed the cut off point for features offered on those products. Consumers can influence those options greatly by letting the manufacturer know that those things "affect my buying choice". Believe me, manufacturers will listen when they know that.

Other companies provide more "features", more advertised "strength", heavier designs, etc. on any particular attachment. They have to to gain market share, and will take risks to accomplish that. If we think about the design of Kubota tractors WITHIN the design philosophy embraced by that company ( light, strong, reliable, and well intergrated units with nothing not necessary to accomplish that goal) we find very little to complain about. There is absolutely no doubt that there are other well designed products out there, and the new Woods "X" series backhoes are great examples of those. The bottom line is that you pay your nickel, and make your own choice about what is important to you. I worked with engineers in a manufacturing environment for a very long time, and have made my choice.............

I couldnt agree with you more. Its one of the reasons why I went with the Kubota FEL. Other aftermarket FEL's are "stronger"..lIft more..etc...but if a guy is "heavy handed..or a total NEWBIE to using one...I was "afraid" that I ( in this case) could damage the B3030 by ...( improper usage basically)....and even though I dont have any 400-500 hrs on mine ( and probably never will have) Ive learned that to do the jobs I need done I dont have to RAMA** and bang mine around..dont even have to run it wide open ( except for road travel..where I want the MAX highway speed I can get) Id be able to "control" a "heavier built" BH just fine.

If oNE looks close at the specs for Kubota impliments ( rototiller..boxblade..etc..etc) you will see they dont use any of the super heavy ( weight-wise) impliments and such...mainly because they dont want the responsiblilty put back on THEM when "Joe" uses ( impliment X) and BREAKS his tractor...and I applaude them for that

Ive watched guys sling around bushhogs that ( according to Kubota literature) they had NO BUSINESS using because of size and weight...yet they still do it...?? Every catagory 1 impliment CANT be used on every CAT 1 tractor..if you get my drift.

I helped my farmer buddy grind corn last night for cattle feed...his grinder needs ( I think he told me??) about 50 PTO HP. I told him if his International ( 80 HP turbo charged..dont know what PTO power it has though) couldnt "hack it"..we could hook up a "real tractor ( mine.... ) and get the job done...at which we both laugh our butts off.

Ive said it before..I love mine..and wont sell it for even what I paid for it. FOR ME it does a great job..BUT..its not perfect by any means. And personally..I dont think ANY of the CUTS are "perfect" ( dont know about large AG equipment because I naver had any interest in it ..thusly no background research) I looked and played with every brand of CUT I could find...driving LOTS of miles to different dealerships..and still kept coming back to the Kubota as the best for my $$$.

I was at the time of purchase..and still am..in the position to buy any brand of CUT I wanted...but as an example...

I had a trench dug for a drain line ( by my frend with the 5030 and his BH) 200 ft long..and I had to back fill it. Bought a rear blade to help with that job. I bought a KK brand..and why? I needed to backfill that 200 ft trench..and Ive used ot 2 times to scrape my driveway of snow. THATS IT...so why didnt i buy some "top dollar brand" of back blade? I didnt NEED IT..But I digress.

Do I like my B3030..definate YES...would I recommend it to someone needing that sized tractor ( if I thought that size was what they actaully needed) another YES..but I would also point out any "flaws" I thought the model had to them..which to THEM might be a big deal..or might not.

( If you notice my sig line..I added the 40 amp alternator to mine..IMHO it should have been std equipment...but again..the "price point" thing you mention rears up!!)

 

[Sully2]

You know with opinions, everybody has one....
Haveing had some experience w/larger BH's as well as on my small BX23, I can see where Kubota made the decision not to add the factory BH option to their cabbed B3030 tractors.
To me it all has to do accessability and efficiency.
I like the room and operation of the large Case I operated, you just simply spin the seat around without moving off the seat and you're pointed backwards to operate the BH. No getting up to spin the seat or getting off of the drivers seat nor exiting the tractor station then climbing down and then up into the BH station. Just set it and forget it

W/the cabbed B3030 and an add-on BH, the first dig will be most comfortable and pleasurable but, it's the necessity of having to manuver around to complete the dig is where the problem arrises as I see it. To reposition you have to get down from the BH, open and enter the cab, reposition, get down and out of the cab then climb up and into the BH seat then lower the stabilizers etc,. I know in my case this would get VERY old with all the timeconsuming and very inefficient repositoning of both me and the tractor.

I've already modified my BX23 so I can drive it forward or in reverse whilst pointed backward facing the BH so I KNOW it would get very old to me to have to exit in/out of a cab from/to the BH just to manuver around. And w/the distance the either BH sits from the tractors controls this type of modification to the cabbed B3030 would be a taxing modification to say the least, if it is at all possible in the 1st place.
Course thats JMHO ;D

100% agreement there partner. Ive watched my buddy with his 5030 cab model...and to me too the get out of the seat..into the cab to move...back out and into the BH seat..flat SUCKS.

 

[Charlesaf3]

I like my b3030 a lot, which is why I kept it when I got the M59.

I do think it has some "flaws" - though compromises might be a better word.

- The instruction manual, like all kubota instruction manuals, is one small step above worthless.

- The cup holder is laughably poorly placed.

- The tool box is tiny

- Most importantly, I think the b3030 is overpowered/overweight for the frame. This is a design decision which I understand - its very powerful for its size. But if you have hills, or don't need the compactness, I think a small L would often be a better choice. For a flat or "cramped" lawn, its great though - you can get it into really tight places. But the center of gravity is correspondingly high.

I love the woods Bh 80x on the 3030. Its a bit too much hoe for the machine, but you can learn how to put the force into digging, rather than shoving the tractor around.

 

[Sully2]

I like my b3030 a lot, which is why I kept it when I got the M59.

I do think it has some "flaws" - though compromises might be a better word.

- The instruction manual, like all kubota instruction manuals, is one small step above worthless.

- The cup holder is laughably poorly placed.

- The tool box is tiny

- Most importantly, I think the b3030 is overpowered/overweight for the frame. This is a design decision which I understand - its very powerful for its size. But if you have hills, or don't need the compactness, I think a small L would often be a better choice. For a flat or "cramped" lawn, its great though - you can get it into really tight places. But the center of gravity is correspondingly high.

I love the woods Bh 80x on the 3030. Its a bit too much hoe for the machine, but you can learn how to put the force into digging, rather than shoving the tractor around.

Whew!...LOL I was starting to think I was alone in my thoughts on the B3030...

Instruction manual...good for wiping the dipstick on for checking oil...
Cup Holder?? Is that what that thing is "in the middle of my back"... I just use to to drop hitch pins etc in...

Tool box?? WHAt tool box...unless you mean that "glove box' in the rear panel...( agreed..useless. I cant begin to get mine to stay shut at all.

Overpowered for its weight...YUP...one reason I dont run mine WIDE OPEN. With its "lighter weight" she can get away from you at the wrong time

And your comments on the BH 80X are my own also.

But I agree the word "compromise" are probably better wording.

 

[ficord]

I have the b3030 with cab and aftermarket woods backhoe, both work flawlessly I have put 130 hrs on it since Jan. 08 . It now has 220 hrs on it.
I wouldn't trade the cab for anything once you have used the cab you would never go back .
In January while plowing the driveway in just my shirt no coat I was across the mouth of the driveway by the road and a van went buy and splashed slush all over the tractor at first I was pissed but then though what if I didn't have the cab I turned on the wiper and continued plowing with a smile.
On the hottest days this summer when its too hot to do anything else I get in the cab and do what ever work I can with the loader out in the hot sun with the radio and A/C on.
You can't beat the factory cab.
The Woods backhoe is just right , as for climbing in and out of the cab that is no problem at all the cab it is well worth the trade off. With practice you will be able to reposition the tractor from the hoe.

I like the looks of the B3030 with the factory Kubota backhoe and the extra clearance it provides but to wish I had that instead of my cab and the woods backhoe setup Not a chance.
I would much rather have the cab I spend 80 to 90 % in my cab verses digging with the hoe. I even use the cup holder it's out of the way and I know just where my drink is when I want it. I;m not sure what you guys mean about the manual it gave me all the information I needed to do the hourly maintenance etc., its not the shop manual but I did buy the parts and shop manual for it. I added an exhaust stack and a set of gauges to the b3030 It's really a Great tractor.

 

[Charlesaf3]

The cab version cupholder is merely in a silly location - for true insanity look at where a non-cab cupholder is. Great for holding pins and parts though.

I'd love to see pics and hear stuff about the exhaust stack. And what Gauges did you add?