Back blade issues for BX owners

   / Back blade issues for BX owners #11  
Charliebrn said:
I saw what you are talking about after mounting my 6' KK blade on my BX2350. It all came down to height when carrying the blade. You are right, the BXs stance is low and with everything unmodified, you have to shorten the top link to be able to carry it with some clearance.

What I did was create the clearance I needed by adding another lift position by drilling another hole in the lift arms where they attach to the lower links. Another hole gave me the clearance I needed to clear the swayles in my back yard. I got a bit more out of the 2200...if i remember right, another hole 2" higher bought me 5". On my 2350 I think the hole was 1.75" and that got me 5 as well with the longer reach of the KK. (on my 2200 I had a 60" Worksaver)



BTW, the KK blade mounts just fine on my BX, even with the pins facing out.

I never thought of that. Good idea! I have also seen guys replace the left lift arm with another adjustable one like on the irght side. They simply screw it up to get the same effect.

Proudestmonkey,
I had my rear blade on this past weekend. I take it back. I would not have gone to the XB line for this implement. It lifts just fine. However, I do stand by my XB BB statement. You could fit a standard size on the older BX models, however with the rippers in and down, you will have minimal ground clearance unless you modify you linkage.
 
   / Back blade issues for BX owners #12  
proudestmonkey said:
A few days ago, I wrote the following about my back blade in response to someone's question. I thought it might be helpful to others on this forum thinking about buying a back blade issues for the BX's.


I did buy the standard (not BX, not "Professional Series") 60" King Kutter blade at TSC. I paid $215 for it.

My final decision was based on the following considerations, most important first:

Price, size, weight, features. Price was great. Size (60") seems about right for a BX. I worried that anything wider would result in sliding to the side either way. Weight was what cancelled out the BX blades. This blade weighs 250 lbs. Just the right amount, along with liquid in rear tires (80 lbs per tire) for a good amount of ballast to offset the weight of my FEL.

There are two features I wish it had that it doesn't. The first is tilt. Tilt allows the blade to be leaned forward and backward. This is important on a larger blade attached to a BX because the BX's stance in relation to the ground is low enough that, in order to get good height for the blad in the up position, you have to use a shorter length top link. This wouldn't be a problem really, if you were going to keep the blade straight (perpendicular) to the rear tires. However, with the short top link, once you lift the blade off the ground a little, and then angle it one way or another, the blade is no longer level from side to side. You kind of have to see it to know what I mean. The first of the attached pics shows the side-to-side angle at a lower position. The second picture shows no angle when blade is straight out.

My dealer told me tilt was important, but he wanted $575 for a Bush-Hog blade with Tilt. I didn't want to pay that much money. Knowing what I know now, I agree that tilt is important for a larger blade on a BX, but I am still not convinced its worth a three fold increase in cost. This would not be a problem on a blade that didn't extend as far back as my blade (like the Estate Series blades sold by Woods). My fix--I extended the top link about a total of 3-4 inches, and that pretty much solved the problem. With the top-link extended, the only sacrifice is that the three point hitch doesn't raise the blade as high now in full up position, but I adjusted the top-link two or three times until I had a good compromise between angle without too much offset, while still being able to raise it enough to avoid hitting the ground on hills (mostly). In full up position, the blade probably sits about two feet off the ground (before extending the top-link, it probably raised to about 3 feet off the ground. If you live on pretty level ground, reducing the amount of height at full up position shouldn't be a problem at all.

Like I said, for the money I saved, and given the perfect weight and size of the blade, I have no regrets about buying it. If I had the money, I wouldn't even have messed with a blade for snow removal. I would have just bought a rear mount snowblower (new is about $1,200). That with an FEL has got to be the PERFECT solution for snow removal. I might still get a rear snowblower when we have more money. I will still be glad to have the blade though. Over the past two days I completely re-graded the gravel in the driveway, courtyard and my tractor trail to the shed. Last time I did that (when we bought the house almost two years ago), I had to pay a guy over $300 to do it. So, the blade has already paid for itself.

I also wish my blade could be offset. I don't mean having it longer on one side than another. That, I think, would be useless on a BX. They are too light. I think you'd lose traction right away, and slide toward the side with the extra lenght. By offset, I mean that the blade could be angled so one side is lower than the other. With this feature, the shorter top-link wouldn't be as important. Also, I use the blade to maintain my gravel driveway and I'd like to crown it, which is a major hassle with a blade that doesn't angle from side to side.

My blade does offer 7 forward positions, and 5 reverse, and you can spin it to your heart's content without removing it.

I used the same rationale as you when I picked up a KK 6 foot rear blade at TSC this afternoon. I am putting it on my new B7800 to be used for snow removal along with the FEL as well as grading my gravel driveway. For only $254 I can live without the tilt and offset. I figure next winter I will have a 60" PTO snow blower anyway so the rear blade will get nominal use. As long as it doesn't fall apart I'll be happy
 
   / Back blade issues for BX owners #13  
I put on the quick hitch from Harbor Freight on my BX-22. Had to make a few modifications on my 3-point implements to fit correctly. Besides the obvious advantage of the quick connect 3-point, I noticed that all my implements have much more height, including my Land Pride blade.
 
   / Back blade issues for BX owners #14  
"What I did was create the clearance I needed by adding another lift position by drilling another hole in the lift arms where they attach to the lower links. "

I went the other way on my Rhino 5' BB. I drilled a hole lower on the upright arm of the blade. Allowed me more adjustment with the top link and it's easier metal to drill through than the link arms of the BX.

There was a good thread 4 or 5 years ago about adding hydrolic top & tilt to the BX 2200. You add a piston to replace the adjustable link arm and one to replace the top link. With that you could angle the blade to either side and level it or tilt it for your crown without getting out of the saddle. I meant to do it at the time but never got around to it.
 
   / Back blade issues for BX owners #15  
Thanks - I'm still looking at BBs. The sub cuts seem to be 12" tall and the other 12 to 14" tall. This mod wolud help.
 
 
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