Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again

   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again #22  
Wedge,

I think Skyco nailed it. Also, I wonder if those links are oriented properly. They look end for end and upside down from a position that would provide the most clearance. Another thing you might check to avert a new problem later is if you have enough pin length to add a washer between the cotter pin and link.

John
 
   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again #23  
They do look backwards- question is- they don't need to be removed to put on the tooth so how long have they been backwards or more accurately, inverted. Whether or not the square ends on the ripper will clear when new ones are oriented the right way remains to be seen.:cool:
 
   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again #24  
Dam... Those were on backwards. They folded like that the very first time they were curled. I bet they will clear the ripper frame top pivot corner when installed correctly, but if not, a few minutes with a grinder to radius that corner to match the profile of the bucket frame and you will be good to go.
 
   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again #25  
Yeah I agree. Good catch Defective.
I'll bet they clear also when on correctly. When you get your new ones, check the travel. They do seem a little skinny though. The ones on my Nardi hoe are about 5/8" or 3/4" thick.
 
   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again #26  
The ones on my HW-03 backhoe are .4" thick and nearly 2 3/4" across. In normal operation, digging/ripping/pulling toward the tractor, those links should always be in tension, so that much metal should be plenty strong for that application.

It is the other link that connects from the end of the cylinder ram down to the bucket lower point that is regularly under compression(second weakest mode) as it pushes the bucket around to curl. Yours looks mostly like two pieces as I can't quite tell if there is something welded between them up near the top. I was just looking at mine, and it has a 1/2" plate welded between them for nearly their full length, making it into an "I" beam like structure which is much stronger in compression than two separate straps.
 
   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again
  • Thread Starter
#27  
RonMar said:
The ones on my HW-03 backhoe are .4" thick and nearly 2 3/4" across. In normal operation, digging/ripping/pulling toward the tractor, those links should always be in tension, so that much metal should be plenty strong for that application.

It is the other link that connects from the end of the cylinder ram down to the bucket lower point that is regularly under compression(second weakest mode) as it pushes the bucket around to curl. Yours looks mostly like two pieces as I can't quite tell if there is something welded between them up near the top. I was just looking at mine, and it has a 1/2" plate welded between them for nearly their full length, making it into an "I" beam like structure which is much stronger in compression than two separate straps.

Ron could you post a photo of yours?
Oh and what is the hole to hole distance?


Wedge
 
   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again #28  
wedge40 said:
Ron could you post a photo of yours?
Oh and what is the hole to hole distance?


Wedge


Sure
Mine looks just like that first picture of the balck one you posted:) I can get you dimensions of those links when I get home this evening. I got to thinking about it, and those might not be easy to get, as I doubt it is a very high failure item. You might get them faster if you make them yourself, or have them fabbed locally.
 
   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again #29  
(didnt read all the responses)

but i recommend a weld on tooth shank for replaceable tooth at the tip. For rippers and BH buckets they usually put them on upside down.

tooth_shank.jpg
 
   / Backhoe Ripper tooth - Again #30  
wedge40 said:
Ron could you post a photo of yours?
Oh and what is the hole to hole distance?


Wedge

Wedge
Here is a diagram of mine. They are made out of 0.4" plate.

 
 
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