Ballast box--how big?

   / Ballast box--how big? #11  
juddspaintballs said:
What would you recommend to do to get over 1k in a compact package then? My rear tires are filled and that adds a little over 1000 lbs according to BioBallast's website. I figured another 1k hanging off of the 3 pt should get my rear end planted pretty firmly, but if there's a better ballast option, I'm open to suggestions.
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IMG-20130512-00016.jpg

Build one of these with two barrels.
 
   / Ballast box--how big? #13  
juddspaintballs said:
What would you recommend to do to get over 1k in a compact package then? My rear tires are filled and that adds a little over 1000 lbs according to BioBallast's website. I figured another 1k hanging off of the 3 pt should get my rear end planted pretty firmly, but if there's a better ballast option, I'm open to suggestions.
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Your 55gal drum filled with concrete will be a bit over 1K pounds. I wouldn't try welding anything to the barrel for 3pt lift points....I'd put a draw bar through the middle, then fabricate a top link attachment, and be done with it.

I happened upon a 1300lb block of steel at the local scrap yard, and my neighbor helped me turn it into a counterweight...with all the welding, and extra material, it's close to 1,400lbs. It's great, but much more expensive than buying bags of concrete, a draw bar, and a 55gal drum.

 
   / Ballast box--how big? #14  
Gary Fowler said:
If you are looking for more than 1000 pounds, using a 55 gallon drum wont get you there @ 1000 to 1100 pound depending on your concrete density when completely full. I think you need more like 1500 # for full effect of the FEL.
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A 55 gallon drum filled with portland cement mix you can buy at Lowe's or HD will get you well over 1K. I don't recall the exact weight, but I seem to remember seeing it listed as 1300-1400 lbs
 
   / Ballast box--how big? #15  
mark02tj said:
Do you have a pic of that not mounted to your tractor? I'm curious as to how it hooks up.

Also, what's on the FEL of your tractor? Is that just a platform?

THANKS!
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That's my tree shear on the FEL, an M&M.

IMG-20130413-00014.jpg

DSC03150.jpg

I put 975 pounds of concrete into it. I brought all the bags home in the bed of the truck, put the mixer on the tailgate and mixed/poured directly into it. That's 2X2 steel and 1/4 inch thickness.
 
   / Ballast box--how big? #16  
THANKS for the pics, Dan! But I have a dumb question - is the steel not permanently attached to the to drum? That's pretty cool!

I thought that might be tree shear. I saw one on the FEL at the local Deere dealer when I was looking to buy my tractor. I'll bet that's fun to use too!!
 
   / Ballast box--how big? #17  
juddspaintballs said:
What would you recommend to do to get over 1k in a compact package then? My rear tires are filled and that adds a little over 1000 lbs according to BioBallast's website. I figured another 1k hanging off of the 3 pt should get my rear end planted pretty firmly, but if there's a better ballast option, I'm open to suggestions.
Click to expand...

You're making a common mistake here. The point of the ballast is not only to keep your rear planted, but to take weight off the front axle by levering it over the fulcrum of the rear axle. Loaded tires provide additional traction and to keep the rear of the tractor on the ground, but because the weight of the ballast is centered over the axle and resting on the ground, it does nothing to take weight OFF the front axle and transfer it TO the rear axle. Ballast on the three-point is out behind the rear axle, and so it transfers weight OFF the front axle and ONTO the rear axle. This is critical, because the front axle of compact tractors is not designed to take the full weight that the loader can lift.

In short: if you need additional traction, ballasted tires are good. If you need a lower CG for side-hill stability, ballasted tires are good. But ballasted tires do nothing to save your front axle. Three-point ballast is mandatory on most compact tractors for achieving maximum loader lift capacity, whether you have loaded tires or not.
 
   / Ballast box--how big? #18  
joshuabardwell said:
You're making a common mistake here. The point of the ballast is not only to keep your rear planted, but to take weight off the front axle by levering it over the fulcrum of the rear axle. Loaded tires provide additional traction and to keep the rear of the tractor on the ground, but because the weight of the ballast is centered over the axle and resting on the ground, it does nothing to take weight OFF the front axle and transfer it TO the rear axle. Ballast on the three-point is out behind the rear axle, and so it transfers weight OFF the front axle and ONTO the rear axle. This is critical, because the front axle of compact tractors is not designed to take the full weight that the loader can lift.

In short: if you need additional traction, ballasted tires are good. If you need a lower CG for side-hill stability, ballasted tires are good. But ballasted tires do nothing to save your front axle. Three-point ballast is mandatory on most compact tractors for achieving maximum loader lift capacity, whether you have loaded tires or not.
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Amen brother. Most manufactures will specify ballast weight and will include specs for 3 point and rear wheel individually and/or combinations. Read you loader manual. For ballast ideas, you can look at the TBN Ballast Photos thread as many members have posted quite a few "concepts" to meet their specific needs.
 
   / Ballast box--how big? #20  
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