Be careful who you let hook your trailer up

   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up #11  
Hi Dave,

I had seen that pix before... isn't that unbelieveable...?

They sure had God watching over them... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up #12  
It sure is unbelieveable. that guy is most definatly on good terms with God. The spooky part to me is it looks like my boat on that trailer.
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up
  • Thread Starter
#13  
There is no doubt when the trailer hooks up right but the guy who hooked it up this time either wasn't paying attention or didn't know any better. We dumped the trailer this morning and had 2500 lbs in the trailer coupled with the extra 2000 lbs the trailer weighs itself we are lucky only the jackstand got hurt. I can not understand some of the people who do not want or use the safety devices on trailers. If there were not safety chains and a breakaway switch someone could have been killed. The switch popped which is like throwing an anchor out at 30mph and to my surprise there was no damage to the safety cables or to the truck hitch, which is a standard Ford installed hitch. We learned our lesson though as to double check the hitch, especially if a certain someone hooks it up again. I am glad though no one got hurt as it popped off at the base of a hill in a 4 lane section of the highway.
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up #14  
Wow. This brings back some memories./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Probably the best one was when I'd rented a Bobcat from Nation's Rent. I had fifteen minutes to get across town to their yard. My bud's guys had hooked me up and I did just a cursory look at it all before jumping behind the wheel and planting the pedal to the metal.

In heavy traffic, three lanes each way I hit a bump and felt something I couldn't identify. A glance in the mirrors told me I had more trailer in one than I had in the other. The chains kept it behind me and a gentle touch with the brakes kept us in contact nice like.

I came to a stop and jumped out to see what had happened. The guys had slipped in the wrong insert, two inch instead of two and five sixteenths. So hitting the bump was just enough to disconnect. I jumped up on the trailer, loosened the front chain, started up and backed up the Bobcat enough to pull the tongue weight to a manageble level, changed inserts and hooked the trailer up, pulled the Bobcat until the back chain was tight, then tightened up the front chain and was off to the races. I made it in time too.

I've tossed to couplers that were faulty. One was on a cement mixer that I towed behind the gooseneck trailer, two trailers, don't even think about backing up. Coming over a bridge I happened to glance back and saw sparks behind the gooseneck, bad coupler had let go.

Another was a pintle hitch that wouldn't stay closed if it wasn't safety pinned. That time the trailer had a wheel on the front jack who happened to be facing the right direction when it popped loose going over a railroad track. Again, something didn't feel right and a glance in the mirrors confirmed my worst fears.

There are two theories I've been exposed to on safety chains. The one I subscribe to is I want to keep that trailer with me, period. The other I've heard is for the chains to be strong enough to pass inspection but weak enough to let the trailer go it's own way in an accident.
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I agree. I would rather keep the trailer with me as it allows me to try and control it somewhat. I would hate for something stupid like having weak chains to be the cause of someone's death. I know with the TN on the utility trailer I am pushing 5 tons and I would hate to see that pass me by and hit another car or person. If it tears up the back of my truck I would be upset but happy no one was hurt. I know another guy who intentionally hooked a 2 5/16 hitch to a 2 inch ball while towing a lawnmower. The lawnmower ended up in the brush and the trailer took out the side of his truck.
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up #16  
The importance of the chains: At White's Ferry on Potomac (20 miles upstream from DC and a real working ferry) I came across gang of people at edge of the boat ramp staring into the water. Trailer had popped off the ball, no chains, so it rolled into the drink and sank with the boat it was carrying (must have been a steep angle). Debate was who went in to hook up a cable. Scene reminded me of the nursery story about the three sillies trying to fish the moon out of the pond with a net.
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up #17  
I don't like ball couplers for that reason. I think there's a inherent design problem with the pressed steel couplers that the manufacturers probably buy because they're cheap. I can't count the times, the coupler hasn't seated because the keeper, or whatever they call it, is too far forward and lodges on the top side of the ball.

For someone who doesn't know, the coupler may look like it's seated on the ball but it isn't. There's one trailer on the place that still has a ball coupler. I went to the trouble of replacing it and found the problem still existed. They need to come up with a design that has a more positive working latch. If the latch isn't locked, the keeper isn't in a position to ride up on the ball. It should be totally clear of the ball until the latch is activated. That trailer doesn't go off the place.

Because of the ball coupler problem, all of the other trailers have lunettes. There's no mistaking when a lunette is properly attached to the pintle. FWIW, Northern Power started carrying the multi-postion channel with attachments, so a trailer with a regular coupler could be setup with the choice of a lunette or if you just had to have it, a ball coupler. It's on page 284 of the latest catalog. That's the setup I speced on my dump trailer. On the road, I use the lunette. On the farm, I can convert to the clevis.

To convert you'd have to do some welding, but you'd never lose a trailer again. When you factor in the potential damages from a runaway trailer, the cost of conversion is cheap. The other thing I do because I don't trust safety chains, I see too many of them dragging on the ground, is to use cable ties betwen the links to make sure the hook can't shake loose.
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up
  • Thread Starter
#18  
We never had a problem before and the only thing we can figure is that he never even opened the latch to begin with so that the trailer never even had a chance. Our dump trailer uses safety cables that are coiled so that they don't hang to the ground. They also have latches on the hook for when you attach them to the truck they can not come off. Our utility trailer has the regular chains, the cheapest setup the factory could find. We cross them so that if the trailer did come off it would form a cradle. So far this is the only incident we have ever had towing but I will look into the pintle setup. Do you get much slop in this setup from starting and stoping at intersections or is it a fairly tight fit?
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up #19  
You always get slop with a pintle/lunette arrangement. I don't seem to notice it any more when I'm towing. The Northern description is misleading by the way. They show two types. One's listed as a 3" and other is listed as a 5". I'm not sure what that means. The smaller one has four cross drilled holes while the longer one has six cross drilled holes for up and down adjustment of the attachment whether coupler, lunette or clevis.

Of course you could change over and still have a pintle pop open if the locking pin isn't in place.
 
   / Be careful who you let hook your trailer up #20  
My last two trailers have 2 5/16 ball hitches. The hitch on the trailer is split fore and aft with a hinge in the front. A spring loaded collar with a retaining pin (probably not needed but I am belt and suspenders with towing equip) holds the back of the split hitch together. The material in contact with the ball is cast or forged NOT stamped. These are stout hitches. Of course I use safety chains and have battery backed up breakaway switch. Crossing the chains is the correct thing to do as it allows tighter safety chains without binding in a turn. As you turn, the chain on the outside of the turn gets looser not tighter.

On the cautious side I gave away my Dodge factory installed 10,000 lb rated frame mounted 2 inch receiver hitch and installed a 14,000 lb Class V 2 1/2 inch receiver. When I tow regular stuff I use an adapter to drop the ID down to 2 inches for a standard draw bar (solid steel, 10,000 lb rated). To avoid any play in the adapter I installed a ubolt through the 3/4 inch steel hitch mounting plate on the dock bumper of the aftermarket utility bed.

To date, the only screw up has been pulling away with a dune buggy on behind on its own wheels but we both thought the other had installe the pin to keep the drawbar in the receiver. Noticed right away and stopped within about 5-6 ft.

Only other trouble I had towing was getting stopped by a cop while using a 1943 military Ford Jeep to tow a beamy little sailboat on a trailer. He stopped me because he said he wanted to see what was up there, a motorcycle or what and the time I had a rented trailer at a dirt yard buying top soil and a rusted up wheel colapsed under the load.

If you ever buy, build, or spec a trailer, do not skimp on the axle and bearings, bigger and HD is better. If you ever tow a boat, or have to cross a stream with a trailer do not back the trailer into the water or cross a stream until you have placed your hand on all the bearings and they are not hot to the touch. Hitting the water will cool any air spaces in the grease of the bearings and the air will contract and suck in water leading to premature bearing failure.

Patrick
 
 
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