Beam size
- Thread starter ch47dpilot
- Start date
Use truss joists, 20' span is nothing, you can use 9-1/4" depth which is the smallest they make, or go deeper if you're going to store your milling machine up there. They're open web so it's easy to run conduit, plumbing or HVAC through the ceiling, light so easy to handle by yourself.
danktx
Bronze Member
I second the use of wood I-joists. I built a 20X40 living area inside my 40X75 building. Decked it with T&G decking and braced them vertically by attaching plywood to the ends when I sheathed the outside of the walls. I used 12" I-joists that are approx. 19ft. free span sitting on 2X6 walls. My wife has decorations for every possible holiday stored up there. There is allot of stuff up there along with the water heater and CH&A unit. The floor feels solid though I have measured about a 5/8" sag in the middle of the room.
DanK
DanK
LD1
Epic Contributor
there is nothing wrong with the I-joists, floor trusses, or LVL's. They can be had pleanty strong enough to clearspan that 20'.
But like I said in my first post, PRICE it before you decide.
I would wager that a steel beam w/dimensional lumber is going to be considerabally cheaper than the three methods above:thumbsup:
But like I said in my first post, PRICE it before you decide.
I would wager that a steel beam w/dimensional lumber is going to be considerabally cheaper than the three methods above:thumbsup:
Beltzington
Platinum Member
Hollow Core Cement Panels - Impressive spans and weight ratings.
Molin Concrete Products
Please let us know about delivery and installation costs and overall satisfaction with the results. I am considering them for a future project.
Molin Concrete Products
Please let us know about delivery and installation costs and overall satisfaction with the results. I am considering them for a future project.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Who said that is what he is going to use as you imply:confused2:
Sounds extremely heavy and very pricy. If he had an extra $5k laying around and wanted to tear his roof off for crane acess...maybe????
But VERY unrealistic and impratical for a simple loft over a corner office in his barn:confused2:
KennyG
Elite Member
My original reply suggested using 2x6s as a ceiling. Now it looks like everyone is assuming this is going to be real storage. If that is the case, I think the engineered timber I-Beams are the best choice. I was looking at this type of design recently and then didn't go that way, but the timber I-beams were definitely the most cost effective solution. Go to the local lumber place and price them.
KennyG
Elite Member
OK, just jumped on line and checked out Menards weekly flyer. They have a nominal 12" deep I-section beam that's rated for a 20 foot span at 16 inch centers for $1.29/linear foot. Quick calc says your ceiling/floor framing will cost $350 to $400. With a steel beam and conventional timbers, you will need to get a pretty good deal on the I-beam to come in lower and it will be a lot more work to construct.
JB4310
Super Member
I'd still spend the extra money on the beam and go with the 10 foot 2x's, not so much for the storage, after all what is it gonna be 5-6 foot high up there?
The ability to have a small hoist in the shop would be my goal, the I beam would be nice, but costly, But you could then have a trolley run on the beam.
Maybe that's getting carried away from the original plan of just a ceiling and a fake X-mas tree stored above
JB
The ability to have a small hoist in the shop would be my goal, the I beam would be nice, but costly, But you could then have a trolley run on the beam.
Maybe that's getting carried away from the original plan of just a ceiling and a fake X-mas tree stored above
JB
LD1
Epic Contributor
Using my above mentioned method of construction...
You would need 28 joists. 2x6x12' for an overlap. Add 2 extra for the sill plate atop the beam.
30 @ 5.98ea @ menards is $179.40 Another $200 for the steel beam and we are in the same price range. But more options for the OP is better. After all, the final decision is his.
A couple more notes:
Personally, I dont think the i-joists are going to be any easier to build. I'd rather handle only ONE 20' (300lb) section of I-beam and then deal with smaller lumber vs handling several 20' lengths of I-joist.
And another thing I would look into is the load rating and deflection limits of the I-joist. I dont know for sure, but I would think the steel beam w/2x6 joists would result in a stronger floor than the I-joists.
EDIT: upon looking at the PDF for the I-joist, it appears that those 12" (11-7/8) I-joists would be equally as strong as the beam and 2x6's I suggested. So strength is a wash there.