Bent Bucket Tilt Cylinder - Massey 1760M FEL 2814

[Shenandoah MF1760]

Looking back on some issues I've had getting attachments on and off the FEL in the past few months I believe I slightly bent the left (port side) bucket tilt cylinder some time ago. My FEL has SSQA's.

Something I did this weekend finally bent it to the point where putting an attachment (the bucket) on became really difficult as that side won't move until the right (starboard) side is nearly at full travel. Looking at the cylinder when fully extended it has an obvious albeit slight arc.

Now it could be me (probably) but I cannot find a parts diagram or service manual for the 2814 FEL anywhere. And AGCOs site seems especially frustrating with anything that's not the tractor.

I don't have an issue putting an aftermarket cylinder (or two if need be), but having part numbers etc would help me get the right thing the first time around. I've seen cylinders as low as $160 out there, but whether they'd fit or be worth the money is another question. And maybe replacing both with larger bore rods would prevent this in the future?

I'd walk out to the tractor and take measurements but it's 100 miles away from the house.

Suggestions?

 

[TractorTech]

Not the easiest thing to find the parts online. Try this link: SSO , but I haven't always gotten that to work. If it works for you, it will lead you to the model search.

You can also try: Welcome to AGCO Parts Books. Click on the lower part of the banner that says, "Visit Agcopartsbooks.com....." Then, under "Guest User", click "View Books". Wait and then put in your model.

Either way, when you get into the model, click on the down arrow with an expanding set of lines in the upper LH corner. This will give you the sub - Table of Contents even though the header says Table of Contents

 

[WranglerX]

Might also try this link...

AGCOUS Site

parts.agcocorp.com

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

I tried the link TractorTech suggested: SSO, which worked just fine.

The link Welcome to AGCO Parts Books brought me back to SSO after jumping through the hoops.

The link from WranglerX: Shop AGCO Parts, also worked and provided the same information

parts.agcocorp.com

It's interesting that there are two cylinders a 32mm and a 36mm. Mine was made prior to 11/10/2021 since I bought it in July 2021. Make you wonder why they decided to go to a larger rod?

ACP0440750

2

CYLINDER FOR LOADERS PRODUCED UNTIL 11/10/2021 32MM ROD/65MM BARREL

ACP0692650

2

CYLINDER FOR LOADERS PRODUCED FROM 11/112021 36MM ROD/65MM BARREL

That split in the dates is fairly close to when MF went from 1700's models to 2800's.

I'm curious to know if the larger diameter rod would fit my FEL? Of course, that doubles the price since I'd have to buy two, and I see the rod alone is a part. I wonder how difficult it is to disassemble the cylinder?

Anyway, much obliged TractorTech and WranglerX!

 

[TractorTech]

No reason the larger rod cylinder wouldn't fit and probably due to the problem you had is why it was upgraded to a larger rod diameter. The pins and the frame have not changed in any way.
The 4 bar bucket linkage that this loader has is supposed to prevent the rod from bending easily compared to a loader that has a direct to the bucket cylinder connection.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

Well... The cylinder is almost $1K, but the rod is a mere $400 (as compared to $1K).

So, I going to attempt to replace the rod. The bend isn't severe, just enough of an arc that it's obvious to the most casual of observers that it's bent.

I'd like to go to the larger cylinder but I believe I'd have to replace both as I assume (probably wrongly) that the cylinder tube is the same size, with a different end cap that accommodates the larger diameter rod. A larger diameter rod would mean less volume inside the cylinder which would cause it to move faster than the smaller diameter rod which is why you'd need two in order to keep the flow/speed equal. I don't know if there is something that adjusts the flow between them.

While the rods and seal kits are available, end caps are not (at least through Agco) so just replacing the rods is not an option.

Not sure how I got myself in this mess. I don't use the bucket much at all, usually, the grapple is on the FEL. While that Lane Shark is a heavy bit of gear I don't have a need to tilt it downwards. I guess I'll have to pay more attention to what I'm doing.

 

[5030]

They usually bend when you back drag with the bucket curled all the way down and the cutting lip contacts a hard spot in the ground and they bend. the rods are at full extension and the weakest at that point. If I were you, I'd take BOTH cylinder off the tractor and to a competent hydraulic rebuild shop. Usually, if one rod is bent so is the other. If you must backdrag, use the heel of the bucket and not the cutting edge.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

Well, the job is done and it appears I got away with only needing to replace the rod.

I had spent enough time watching youtube videos to earn a PhD in hydraulic cylinder repair.

Every bit of which was completely useless as these cylinders aren't put together in the fashion shown in those videos.

Apparently smaller Tractors (mine's only a little 60 hp) don't use the same style cylinders as the big boys.

I confess my experience with hydraulic cylinders is almost exclusively with Parker products and I was expecting to encounter something completely different than what I found.

So... the o-ring and pin/slotted spanner wrenches I bought weren't needed at all. And I still had to make two trips to the store because most of my tools are 100 miles away and I didn't correctly anticipate what I'd need. Thankfully I didn't also buy a seal kit ($200.00) as the new rod came with all the necessary ones.

What was required were a pair of snap ring pliers, a brass drift, a pick with a hooked end and a dead blow hammer.

In the end, I was able to get the new cylinder rod in with the help of my youngest. I'm sure there's blue smoke covering most of the county considering the amount of cussing that went on.

Had I known that the job (including two trips to the hardware store) could be done in an afternoon I'd have made a youtube video myself. Although considering I got oil everywhere and that I have a face made for radio it's probably a good thing I didn't.

No reason the larger rod cylinder wouldn't fit

This is probably a true statement. I was expecting an end cap that the rod went through not something retained by a spring clip in a groove. Since there is only a single part number for the cylinder itself, I assume both rod sizes would fit.

I put a straight edge against the rod of the other cylinder and I couldn't see any issues with it, and both track up and down at the same rate so I'm thinking I'm O.K. with that one.

If I manage to bent another one due to something stupid I might do, I'll most likely change out both for the larger rod. Although I hope that's off in the far future somewhere.

Thanks guys, for your input!