Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP.

   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP. #1  

MarlinSlayer

Bronze Member
Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
83
Location
Collierville, TN
Tractor
Ford Jubilee!
First I want to say this is an awesome forum and I really have a good handle on the care and MX and repair of the old NAA....the only thing I didn't do myself was the lift cover because I ran out of time (More on that later)

To sum up...I have way more in this thing than it's worth, but I know it will run for a long, long time without too much major mx (I hope).

To sum up all the repairs: replaced gas tank, radiator(three times...more on that later), installed shroud, did a screw on conversion, replaced rotor(twice) plugs, wires, condenser (twice), points (twice).
Replaced every gasket/filter element on outside of tractor, and valve cover gasket, adjusted valves, replaced oil pick up tube gasket.
Rechecked timing. new solenoid, rebuilt starter.....days and days of cleaning. removed broken stud on axle support bracket.
Reinforced axle support bracket where some rust had formed and drilled drain holes in bottom to avoid collecting so much water.
Replaced front axle, axle pin and bushing. Replaced front spindles, bearings and bushings (had front bushings inline reamed). Replaced dustcover boots on all the steering linkages, greased and adjusted all linkages.
Adjusted clutch pedal, rear end brake job (More on that later)....fixed a water leak in the water Jacket and used a product to ceramic line the inside of the water jacket. Checked compression (Really, really good)
Completely rewired tractor.
New rear rims and tubes.
Removed hood tins, welded up some cracks, took out some dents, then ground down the flanges a little where the spot welds had broken and someone tried to screw them together and ran a weld bead down the flanges. the left lower hole where the bottom bolt goes on was completely cabbage and just kind of sat on the bolt with the upper semicircle still intact. I took a big fender washer and welded that to the back of the semi-circle and it worked like a champ. No more rattling.

This is my first try at welding and with a friends mig welder, it was easy.


Rebuilt carb (Three times)....adjusted governor linkage.

I had difficulty tuning carb. In another post I found out what the problem was and I will repeat it here: Mine would run great...then it would be all over the place. I had completely rewired it and thought I had screwed something up. Put in a new coil and condenser....you know what? When I originally took off the distributor....it was in the dark. I had forgotten that I felt a piece go flying...but wasn't sure cause it was in the dark. I figured the new rotor would have everything I needed. Anyway, I rebuild carb three times, tried to enrich/lean as according to procedure, but I couldn't get it to run consistently especially with throttle changes.....went to buy another condenser and points, talked to the local tractor guy about my problem....also had weird brass shavings sitting on dust cover...(Soundguy probably already knows what the problem is). The shavings bewildered him, I told him the rotor seemed "Awfully loose and had a lot of play in it" but he said "you did put the rotor block back on?" I said "the what"....he reaches into a bin and hands me a 2cent clip. Told me that was the problem and to go in peace. Sure enough, there was no block underneath...and by this time the new rotor had cracked and had worn down the contacts on the new diet cap I had put on. Replaced rotor (with block) cap and she purred like a kitten once I tuned the carb. Geez that was a lot of work for a 2 cent part.

Radiator: I ordered a radiator from a reliable source but got the cheapest one as I figured I'd put a stick through it shortly. Once installed, I noticed a small (nickel sized) collection of green fluid at the bottom around some of the fins. Hoping against hope that I had somehow spilled fluid..that it somehow hadn't evaporated, and it found it's way there I cleaned it up and went on a trip out of town. When I came back, the puddle had re-appeared this time quarter size. SHOOT....I need to bushhog farm before deer season. Hadn't been cut in a year! Got on the phone and the supplier was more than willing to replace it and said that they get about 10% of them back. New one should be ok. Installed new one and took my awesome almost new tractor to the farm.

Bushhogged for two hours and then lift wouldn't work.....dang...when putting it up on the trailer, driving across farm, I go over a bump and radiator 2nd new radiator lets go. Turns out these after market radiators have the radiator outlet extending too far aft. Since I had replaced the axle, thought maybe I had done something wrong. With the axle on the innermost adjustment, when you articulate the axle, it makes contact with the radiator outlet and breaks the weld. A quick search on yesterdays tractors confirmed my suspicion and my already proposed solution. I told a grinder to the part of the axle arm that is unused and extends in the way of the radiator outlet and ground off a portion to allow the axle to articulate. Had to jack up tractor to test it. Now I have a worst case 1/4 inch clearance at full throw. Kind of like taking off a piece of your belt that goes too far around your waist. I still have enough structure that I can extend the axles all the way out, but I'm likely never to do that. I have gotten really good at pulling tins and replacing radiators now. Third time was a charm. Took tract to the shop and they fixed the llft cover cheap....

Brakes....The brakes had been replaced but not adjusted and the seals looked like they had been replaced, but whoever did that forgot to adjust brakes, Cleaned them up, adjusted them....good thing I did, because I tried to roll the tractor into a ravine that was covered in grass. Stopped with just the right front, and two rears on 1 foot of good ground each. Rest of tractor was suspended in mid air with me holding on for dear life afraid to step on clutch and reverse it. Tractor stalled when I dropped bush to help anchor me in the emergency stop. Got a four wheeler and chain to make sure I didn't roll forward when I started it up and was able to reverse it. I am thankful that I had the previous problem with the radiator, because with the tractor hanging off the right front wheel, there's no way the radiator would have survived if I hadn't relived the impact point on the axle.

Anyway, more later, I have to go pick up daughter.
Pic follows:
[URL=http://s998.photobucket.com/user/wtss1/media/IMAG0183%202_zpsqyq6thas.jpg.html][/URL]
 
   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP. #2  
That tractor, with a little TLC should outlive your daughter.
 
   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP. #3  
lookin good. them old girls like to work.
 
   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP. #4  
Looks good, now you can see what you're shootin at. If you don't have sway bars for your brushog you might what to consider getting them. In the up position on a turn on a hill with wet grass the weight of the brushog could carry you and the tractor a way you don't want to go. BTDT

Kirk
 
   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP. #5  
Marlinslayer. You said you had a broken stud on the front support bracket. How did you go about fixing that? I was looking at mine awhile back and noticed they had the front support welded to the part of the engine block. I don't know if it was because of broken studs our not.
I will have to look further at it next time at the farm. It did have a loader on it. I took it off and noticed the weld there. The front support has to come off in order to remove center axel and wheels correct?
 
   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP. #6  
Got a pic?
 
   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP. #7  
No I will take one next time I'm there.
 
   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP.
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Marlinslayer. You said you had a broken stud on the front support bracket. How did you go about fixing that? I was looking at mine awhile back and noticed they had the front support welded to the part of the engine block. I don't know if it was because of broken studs our not.
I will have to look further at it next time at the farm. It did have a loader on it. I took it off and noticed the weld there. The front support has to come off in order to remove center axel and wheels correct?

Sorry, I just saw this post! I posted earlier about how I got the stud out... I think it was titled"Big Fat Grin".

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ford-vintage-tractors/343619-big-fat-grin.html

I'll try to find it and post a link here. Basically a 1/8 tapcon masonry bit (believe it or not) and cutting oil will burn through the stud....then you enlarge the hole and run an easy out. Liberal use of PB blaster for about a week every time I passed the tractor.

You don't "HAVE" to take off axle support bracket to remove front axles. In my case it was the easiest option as I couldn't budge the axle pin at all. Two types of pins. One has a dog ear and is bolted to axle support through the dog ear...unbolt it....then theoretically you can hit the side of the dog ear with a drift and mallet and turn it back and forth and wiggle it out. In my case, the pin, bushing, and axle had all worn and rusted together creating a giant unholy mess. I was forced to remove the axle support bracket and beat the pin out from behind with a 5 lb dead blow sledge. It took a lot of work and PB Blaster and by the time I got the pin out.... It was incredibly hot

The other one is a Ford Service retrofit in with a slot in the front as a Keyway and is then threaded. Ford then threaded the axle support I believe. I imagine this makes changing bushing easier if done on a regular basis....but would probably make it almost inextractable if it was neglected as long as mine was.

SoundGuy.... Does that sound about right.
 
   / Big Thank You to Sound Guy and all the rest!!!!!!! NAA RUNS LIKE CHAMP. #9  
agreed, It's usually just time ahead to drop the bolster, but yeah.. in a perfect world you can slip the pin , seperate the center axle section and remove.
 

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