I have 2 industrial 100 litre bladder tanks at home. These are designed to absorb the water-hammer effect from hundreds of yards of 2" dairy pipes.
One I use as a remote reservoir in the workshop that I have in the house (the compressor is in the garage and that's 30 meters away from where I use the air the most), and the other I use as a vacuum accumulator.
Both are rated to 10bar, but both are hydro-burst tested to 20bar. My compressor's output is limited electrically to 13 bar and mechanically to 14 bar, and a safety valve will trip at 15bar.
While a simple "water storage tank" should never be used as a pressure vessel, Bladder-accumulators are well suited to the job so long as common sense is followed and everything is well tested with a good safety margin.
The major concern that has popped up so far in response the OP has been a busting tank.
One example was given - and attributed to a faulty safety valve - which is only ever a second line of defence against overpressure. In that case I'd call the competence of the owner/builder into question.
J_J once more raises the fair concern of test pressures. From what I've seen in his responses on this forum, J_J's a level-headed and very helpful bloke. He rightly says "some have been hurt": While you can never say that the people who've succeeded have done so because they did everything right, It's fair to say that those who've failed have done so because they did something very wrong.
This is why we recommend hydro-testing the tank: ensuring there is NO air in it at all, and using water as the device to build pressure to a measured maximum level in order to ensure the tank's ability to withstand a far greater pressure than you'd ever use it for.
A really simple way of hydro testing at home is to install a grease-nipple on the tank, and use a hand-pumped grease-gun to pump water/oil to pressurize it.....
It's all perfectly safe so long as you've tested the tank at a pressure that markedly exceeds the pressure you wish to use it at.
Why the **** should you trust me?
I'm a newbie when it comes to tractors. I'll happily ask questions, and tentatively offer solutions when it comes to tractors and implements, but I have no experience to back up my suggestions: just engineering know-how and ruthless mechanical logic.
This area however is one where I have a bulk of expertise and experience. I'm a Mechanical Engineer working as Machine Designer in one of the world's largest food/liquid packaging companies. I specialise in mechanical motions, the design, manufacture and assembly of them, and all the stress/fatigue problems that come with systems that repeat their functions 5 times a second. If you need an automated 20 ton lump of stainless steel and aluminium to get foodstuffs packaged at high speed in an FDA approved way, I'm your guy. Aside from this, I am the pneumatics specialist for our large R&D department - this leads to collaborative projects with some of the best pneumatic companies in the world.
Take or leave whatever advice you wish, but if you're going to do this, I insist that you Hydro-test your tank to at least 150% of the maximum pressure you intend to use it at. Not only is it easy to do, but it'll set your mind and rest and give you well-placed confidence.
Failure to heed that one bit of advice could well put you in running for a "Darwin Award".
I'd also suggest you take photos to put other people's minds at ease.