Blowing fuses (still)

[meexiles]

This machine was blowing fuses, first in the HEATER switch position. So last weekend, I disconnected the glow plugs from the circuit, and ran the tractor about 8 hours over both weekend days, starting fine. Fast forward to this weekend, and it started blowing fuses again. I think I have traced it down to the solenoid, as when I short the +12 and ignition terminal nothing happens. When I bench test the resistance across the solenoid, it is 1.5 ohms equating to about 18A of draw which seems very high for a solenoid. When I bench test the resistance across the motor, it fluctuates between 0 and 0.2 ohms, which seems much more reasonable so I don't think the short is in the starter.

My questions are as follows:

1) Is it worth taking the solenoid apart to see if there is something wrong that I can fix? (Do they even sell generic solenoid repair kits? I can't seem to find any...)
2) Is it OK to just replace the solenoid, or should I replace the whole starter?
3) Are the solenoids used on these tractors available at auto parts stores as a cross part? If so, how do you explain to the clerk behind the counter that the device is not in their parts listing and they actually have to use their brain a little bit?

Thanks!

 

[Bob Rooks]

The only parts in the solenoid that are "repairable" are the copper contacts and copper washer which can be flipped. The solenoid motor (steel slug) must be clean, dry, and free from all dust and dirt that could cause it to stall. Lubricate it with graphite because it isn't subject to temperature extremes, and isn't a dirt magnet like grease or WD-40. The solenoids are sold separately - contact Ronald or Tommy and save your frustration (and theirs) at the parts store.

 

[erj]

Since it is a relatively simple task, I would remove the solenoid. As Bob stated, check it for cleanliness.
If you are concerned about the disassembly, send me a PM and I will send you a PDF file with pictures, etc.

 

[meexiles]

Since it is a relatively simple task, I would remove the solenoid. As Bob stated, check it for cleanliness.
If you are concerned about the disassembly, send me a PM and I will send you a PDF file with pictures, etc.

I removed all of the screws holding the case onto the guts of the solenoid, and it seems like there is something still holding the cover on. Though the cover does move away slightly, I cannot seem to remove it from the base.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I removed all of the screws holding the case onto the guts of the solenoid, and it seems like there is something still holding the cover on. Though the cover does move away slightly, I cannot seem to remove it from the base.

You must remove the nuts on the copper studs, and the nut on the small screw. These have wires attached on the inside. There may also be an O-ring under the phenolic cap.