Blown Turbos and bad injectors

[MinnesotaEric]

I am starting this posting to see just have many Kioti owners have ad to deal with bad turbos and bad injectors. Keep it simple so that everyone can see who is having or who has had issues. Ill start this off,

Jim R. 430 hours bad #2 injector and oil in the intake hose. Injector replaced. Told that the oil in the intake hose is normal. 686 hours blown turbo seal oil in the intake hose still.

Kioti uses Delphi injectors so you should be able to save money rather than buying Kioti branded versions by cross referencing the number stamped on the side of the stock injector. The turbo is likely the same. Just search for Deadong turbo and see what comes up.

In my neck of the woods the sales pitch was that I'd need to regenerate every 50 hours. However, in practice doing nothing but easy loader work in cooler weather, my tractor was regenerating every 8-12 hours, once even going into limp home mode because it couldn't get warm enough to regenerate. This was unacceptable and a little research revealed fleets having the same problems. The field fix was to install a warmer thermostat that would allow the engine to warm up in colder climates while maintaining the stock fuel mapping. Working as an auto mechanic, it was routine that we would install warmer thermostats in cars and trucks when they came in for such jobs as stock, the cars and trucks would cool themselves off if stuck in traffic and idling too much in the cold and their engine's ECU map would drop the vehicle back into a richer warm-up map. The same thing was happening all over the USA with fleet Tier IV diesels. As such, I installed a warmer T-stat and my drivability problems went away and I started regenerating every 20-35 hours.

Back to you guys: I cannot speak to new tractors, but the original 2014 batch all have T-stats that begin to open at 160 degrees and when approaching wide open throttle, by pass the T-stat entirely. Under the right conditions of light load, cold weather, your tractors will never warm up to proper operating temperature and will always run on a richer fuel map. The richer fuel map can over time dilute oil faster requiring increased oil changes. My speculation, Jim, is that is what has perhaps happened to your tractor. I'd contact a Kioti or Bobcat shop in Canada and find out what T-stat they are running.

 

[JimR]

Kioti uses Delphi injectors so you should be able to save money rather than buying Kioti branded versions by cross referencing the number stamped on the side of the stock injector. The turbo is likely the same. Just search for Deadong turbo and see what comes up.

In my neck of the woods the sales pitch was that I'd need to regenerate every 50 hours. However, in practice doing nothing but easy loader work in cooler weather, my tractor was regenerating every 8-12 hours, once even going into limp home mode because it couldn't get warm enough to regenerate. This was unacceptable and a little research revealed fleets having the same problems. The field fix was to install a warmer thermostat that would allow the engine to warm up in colder climates while maintaining the stock fuel mapping. Working as an auto mechanic, it was routine that we would install warmer thermostats in cars and trucks when they came in for such jobs as stock, the cars and trucks would cool themselves off if stuck in traffic and idling too much in the cold and their engine's ECU map would drop the vehicle back into a richer warm-up map. The same thing was happening all over the USA with fleet Tier IV diesels. As such, I installed a warmer T-stat and my drivability problems went away and I started regenerating every 20-35 hours.

Back to you guys: I cannot speak to new tractors, but the original 2014 batch all have T-stats that begin to open at 160 degrees and when approaching wide open throttle, by pass the T-stat entirely. Under the right conditions of light load, cold weather, your tractors will never warm up to proper operating temperature and will always run on a richer fuel map. The richer fuel map can over time dilute oil faster requiring increased oil changes. My speculation, Jim, is that is what has perhaps happened to your tractor. I'd contact a Kioti or Bobcat shop in Canada and find out what T-stat they are running.

I will look into the T Stat in Canada. I recall all of your issues up there in cold Minnesota. It never gets that cold here. My motor is toasted. I'll put up the update on my original posting.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I will look into the T Stat in Canada. I recall all of your issues up there in cold Minnesota. It never gets that cold here. My motor is toasted. I'll put up the update on my original posting.

Get the loader off and hood up and out of the way (or off) and the engine is pretty easy to get at. Did your dealer do a leak-down test to see where the compression is being lost? Before tearing into it, I'd want to determine that as well as send in fuel and oil samples to help determine what is going on. For all I know you have biodiesel issues in your fuel.

 

[JimR]

Get the loader off and hood up and out of the way (or off) and the engine is pretty easy to get at. Did your dealer do a leak-down test to see where the compression is being lost? Before tearing into it, I'd want to determine that as well as send in fuel and oil samples to help determine what is going on. For all I know you have biodiesel issues in your fuel.

Fuel sample shows low cetane rating as in contaminate fuel. Now my only recourse is to figure out which of 2 gas stations either had gas in their diesel tanks or crap diesel. Good luck with proving that. All my purchases match buying diesel fuel. The pistons are all worn, piston slap in the cylinders, scoring in the cylinders and a ridge at the top of the cylinders. Low compression in all three cylinders and a completely plugged up DPF. I have a brand new motor on order. I'm not having it rebuilt. I am keeping all the old motor parts and may rebuild it myself in the future. The motor needs to be bored for oversize pistons. Who knows what other damage is done inside. Once I tear it down I can check the rod and main bearings, camshaft and cylinder head. The oil test came back with no contamination. The fuel problem could be some kind of biodiesel issue. I will have to look into that also at both gas stations where I bought fuel. They make a hydrometer for checking diesel fuel. I will be buying one. From here on out I will be checking all the fuel that I buy before putting it in my tractor. If the cetane rating is low it can be boosted up. The new motor comes complete with new high pressure fuel pump all new sensors and sending units. New latest version of injectors installed in the motor. One year warranty. The cost to rebuild the old motor was way up there. I decided to go brand new and get this done. I need the tractor now. I'll deal with the old motor down the road when I have time. I have already contacted both gas stations . I'm waiting to see if the managers will reply. Neither one was available the other day when I was there.