Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f

   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #201  
Looks like a great implement and a fun restoration project. I can see where that would be handy to have.
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #202  
Thats great that you are going to fix it up for the summer, and get it working. Are you going to repaint it, or just get everything moving well? My grandfather has quite a few old rusted implements on the edge of his field, that have been sitting there for probably close to 15 years. He passed away two years ago, and he stopped working with the implements about 15 years ago. They are about in the same condition, and it give me hope that I can get them working again. I just have to fight with the trees that have tried to grow through them. You might be able to weld a long handle that you can reach from the drivers seat of your tractor that will operate the dump lever. These are some photos of mine two summers ago when I was fox-proofing our chicken coupe after we lost about 8 chickens. It is like fort knox now, and it works out well considering it was an old well spring house. I look forward to seeing how it turns out and works for you. The nice option with a dirt scoop is that you can reverse it, and face the open part towards the tractor, and use it to drag and dig while you are going forward.

IMG_0098.jpgIMG_0097.jpgIMG_0096.jpg
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #203  
Thats great that you are going to fix it up for the summer, and get it working. Are you going to repaint it, or just get everything moving well? My grandfather has quite a few old rusted implements on the edge of his field, that have been sitting there for probably close to 15 years. He passed away two years ago, and he stopped working with the implements about 15 years ago. They are about in the same condition, and it give me hope that I can get them working again. I just have to fight with the trees that have tried to grow through them. You might be able to weld a long handle that you can reach from the drivers seat of your tractor that will operate the dump lever. These are some photos of mine two summers ago when I was fox-proofing our chicken coupe after we lost about 8 chickens. It is like fort knox now, and it works out well considering it was an old well spring house. I look forward to seeing how it turns out and works for you. The nice option with a dirt scoop is that you can reverse it, and face the open part towards the tractor, and use it to drag and dig while you are going forward.

Very nice. I am impressed.
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#204  
I sanded the heck out of the frame and outside of the scoop to remove
the rust. I looked at different types of rust sealer / paint and I
just did not want to spend as much money for paint and sealer as I did
for the scoop. So I sprayed everything with rusty metal primer I
already had and then I bought a gallon of rustoleum high performance
oil base enamel paint for $25 at Walmart. I bought the light grey.
Here are a few pictures. This week I am going to replace the water pump
and the head gasket. I hope that's it for the rest of the summer.
 

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   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#205  
I was using the tractor a good bit on Sunday and the water pump
is starting to leak more and it also now has a rumble sound.
Time to replace the pump and to replace the head gasket.
Here are a few pictures of the tear down.
 

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   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #206  
Nice job on the scoop - looks great! I retightened the head bolts on my weeping head gasket and it appears to have stopped leaking - for now anyway. Seems like I read somewhere that the head bolts should be retorqued after a couple hours of use. Maybe something to consider for this one.
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#207  
I finished replacing the head gasket and water pump last week and so far so good. My laptop
is down and all of my pictures are on it. I need to replace the power jack on the mother board.
I have ordered a new jack and hopefully it will be here soon so I can get to my pictures.
I used the tractor with the dirt scoop today for about 3 hours and yesterday I used
for about 3 hours and does do a good job. Plus it is fun as heck to drive around and
having a two cylinder diesel is actually cool as well.
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#208  
I have been using the tractor with the dirt scoop and I think
I need to replace the O-rings on the 3 point lift piston.
I have to give it a good bit of throttle to lift scoop with
dirt or stone in it. Also here is a video of the disassembly
of the engine to replace the head gasket and water pump.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztmVagtIrPA
 
   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f #209  
Once again another of your Great videos, loved it from start to finish! Big thanks! I have learned so much from you on the engine, transmission, hydraulic pump, PTO, clutch and axle videos that has given me the confidence to tackle one of these projects if I ever need to where I never would have tried before.

I really like the "grand plan" you video, and also the little details, this retired bookkeeper would never have thought of, like tightening bolts before loosening, sanding on a flat surface and checking with a straight edge, ordering two gaskets, dealing with a water pump spacer(who would have thought?), pipe plug and the unbolt procedure.

My most complicated engine task in life has been replacing heads on an Olds 455 in 1978 (So I know a torque sequence, but a loosening sequence? - never thought of it.

I do have one question, you mentioned "not wanting the hardened washers to drop into the engine", these washers are at the end of the bolt, at the point where you put your socket? I do not readily see how bolt washers could fall in the engine and be difficult to retrieve, I guess it is if they fall in the water jacket holes?

Keep it up, I am watching every detail,

John

PS removing the fuel tank would have given you more "elbow, arm and wrist motion" while removing the head?
 
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   / Bolens G154 / Iseki tx1300f
  • Thread Starter
#210  
I do have one question, you mentioned "not wanting the hardened washers to drop into the engine", these washers are at the end of the bolt, at the point where you put your socket? I do not readily see how bolt washers could fall in the engine and be difficult to retrieve, I guess it is if they fall in the water jacket holes?

Keep it up, I am watching every detail,

John

PS removing the fuel tank would have given you more "elbow, arm and wrist motion" while removing the head?

The hardened washers are not attached to the head bolts so when you
remove the head bolts the washers are left laying on the head.
They could fall into the push rod openings and land on the
lifters. You could get the washers back out with a magnet
but if you didn't realize one fell into the engine it could cause problems
later on after assembly. As far as removing the fuel tank
I was going to this time as I have removed it many times before
doing work around the engine but I didn't want to drain the fuel tank
and I didn't want to deal with bleeding the fuel line.
Another reason I was going to remove the tank
was to replace the clear tubing on the end of
the fuel tank because its the manual fuel gauge. Mine has been
painted over many times and its somewhat brittle.
Anyway next time I remove the tank I'll replace the tubing.
Thanks for the compliments.

PS I have an assembly video of the head gasket replacement
but I need to edit it and add text also.
 
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