Bought MT2801D - 4DQ30C 1490cc 4cyl engine - ''Auto Laser" front loader - Mitsubishi R1613S rotary tiller

[Spiros-GR]

I was hoping you would have gotten a picture of the 3pt linkage. I am thinking it may have a friction plate and you could adjust the resistance in movement.

As far as the leaking cylinder, around here you can take it to a hydraulic shop and they can rebuild it for not much more than the kit. Getting the gland cap off can sometimes be tricky. They also can size the seals and often times have what is needed in stock.

starting from the last
Unfortunately since this tractor has no plates and it is not allowed to be driven on public roads, either I have to get a mechanic on site, or load it on a trailer to his shop.Unless I can remove the cylinder from arm on site by myself and get it to shop,but i doubt if this is possible considering this is part of a circuit ( ???).

Hmmm... i think that the next big thing, is to sort out how to move this tractor around. The lack of detailed information on this model is problematic.
Probably, tractor alone exceeds 3000 lbs . FEL's weight added ,plus bucket .... we may reach 4500 ???



About friction plate on 3pt... I searched on internet what it may looks like ,no hope

 

[ptsg]

starting from the last
Unfortunately since this tractor has no plates and it is not allowed to be driven on public roads, either I have to get a mechanic on site, or load it on a trailer to his shop.Unless I can remove the cylinder from arm on site by myself and get it to shop,but i doubt if this is possible considering this is part of a circuit ( ???).

Hmmm... i think that the next big thing, is to sort out how to move this tractor around. The lack of detailed information on this model is problematic.
Probably, tractor alone exceeds 3000 lbs . FEL's weight added ,plus bucket .... we may reach 4500 ???



About friction plate on 3pt... I searched on internet what it may looks like ,no hope

Welcome to the forum Spiros.

To pull the cylinder out, you just need to disconnect the hoses and take the pins out. No need to take the entire tractor to the shop.

For the 3 pt friction discs, you need to follow the 3 pt lever all the way down, till it enters the transmission housing, that's where the those friction discs are. It should have a spring and two studs with nuts to adjust it. It may just need some lubrication.

 

[Spiros-GR]

Welcome to the forum Spiros.

To pull the cylinder out, you just need to disconnect the hoses and take the pins out. No need to take the entire tractor to the shop.

For the 3 pt friction discs, you need to follow the 3 pt lever all the way down, till it enters the transmission housing, that's where the those friction discs are. It should have a spring and two studs with nuts to adjust it. It may just need some lubrication.

Great to join you all !

After watching couple of youtube videos , indeed cylinder removal is not a really big deal. Seal replacement,not hard job either. As long as you find the correct kit on the market. On one of those videos, a guy was fixing his kubota FEL cylinder with identical cup to mine. He just used a simple F-wrench (crab ) to unscrew it, no special tool .
I am about 40 minutes from tractor ,and not sure if pin removal is easy task or special tool/trick needed. Also, what about bleeding the hydraulic circuit after reinstalling the cylinder?Airpockets/refilling fluid not an issue? Just re-install and go?

Now about 3pt lever stiffness. As I pointed on my previous posts , I have no access to workshop manual ,no chance to find it online. Granted the distance ,only option is close checking,so no idea what to expect.
Great to know that's probably an easy fix! Wd-40 is permitted ? Or better a spray lub ? Thanks a lot for your help!

 

[ptsg]

Great to join you all !

After watching couple of youtube videos , indeed cylinder removal is not a really big deal. Seal replacement,not hard job either. As long as you find the correct kit on the market. On one of those videos, a guy was fixing his kubota FEL cylinder with identical cup to mine. He just used a simple F-wrench (crab ) to unscrew it, no special tool .
I am about 40 minutes from tractor ,and not sure if pin removal is easy task or special tool/trick needed. Also, what about bleeding the hydraulic circuit after reinstalling the cylinder?Airpockets/refilling fluid not an issue? Just re-install and go?

Now about 3pt lever stiffness. As I pointed on my previous posts , I have no access to workshop manual ,no chance to find it online. Granted the distance ,only option is close checking,so no idea what to expect.
Great to know that's probably an easy fix! Wd-40 is permitted ? Or better a spray lub ? Thanks a lot for your help!

To remove the pins, looks like you need circlip pliers, the style that opens as you squeeze the handles, so you can remove the circlips. Then a punch and a hammer should take care of pulling the pin out. Hopefully they'll come out nice and easy.

For the seals, easiest and cheaper way is often to pull the seals out, go to an hydraulic shop and have them measure and figure out the seals you need.

For the bleeding process, it's not necessary. Put everything back together and just cycle that function back and forth a couple times. You'll notice it won't react at first due to all the air, but keep holding the lever and it will eventually move. Then do it in the other direction. Repeat a couple times and it's good to go. Check the hydraulic fluid level in the end.

Back to the 3 pt, yes, WD40 will be good enough for now. If it works, you may want something that actually lubes and holds for some time.

This is a grey market tractor, and with these tractors, manuals are nearly impossible to find for most models. Same applies for parts as well.

On a better note, since they sold so many grey market tractors all over Europe, people literally imported 12 meter containers full of those, some good websites with parts also started popping up online, which is a great thing. I'll see if I can remember some of them.

https://traktor60.hu/main-site?nyelv=en

Mitsubishi parts - traktor.com.pl

Mitsubishi Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. is part of the Mitsubishi group that was established in 1980 and is responsible for the production and sale of agricultural machinery, mainly tractors, tractors and combines.

traktor.com.pl

Yenibiz Online store KUBOTA ISEKI YANMAR tractor spare parts & engines…

All spare parts for tractors in our selection for the maintenance and repair of agricultural machines Iseki, Kubota, Mitsubishi, Yanmar and others.

www.yenibiz.co.uk

 

[bmaverick]

Great to join you all !

After watching couple of youtube videos , indeed cylinder removal is not a really big deal. Seal replacement,not hard job either. As long as you find the correct kit on the market. On one of those videos, a guy was fixing his kubota FEL cylinder with identical cup to mine. He just used a simple F-wrench (crab ) to unscrew it, no special tool .
I am about 40 minutes from tractor ,and not sure if pin removal is easy task or special tool/trick needed. Also, what about bleeding the hydraulic circuit after reinstalling the cylinder?Airpockets/refilling fluid not an issue? Just re-install and go?

Now about 3pt lever stiffness. As I pointed on my previous posts , I have no access to workshop manual ,no chance to find it online. Granted the distance ,only option is close checking,so no idea what to expect.
Great to know that's probably an easy fix! Wd-40 is permitted ? Or better a spray lub ? Thanks a lot for your help!

Go to this message thread and download the helpful PDF file for your MT2801D.

MITSUBISHI - SATOH TRACTOR INFORMATION, PARTS, AND SUPPORT - updated - REV 3.21

The MITSUBISHI - SATOH TRACTOR INFORMATION, PARTS, AND SUPPORT.PDF has finally been updated. It's no longer in that difficult to read and no possible to search older PDF format. Edwin Krampitz wrote the first edition. He did a fine job at it. However, Ed Krampitz tractor historian passed...

www.tractorbynet.com

So, my main concern is that seems impossible to source digital workshop manual or parts list for my new tractor.Same for rotary tiller.

See attached PDF. And the 4DQ30 was also produced in the Netherlands for Mitsubishi forklifts.

 

[Spiros-GR]

To remove the pins, looks like you need circlip pliers, the style that opens as you squeeze the handles, so you can remove the circlips. Then a punch and a hammer should take care of pulling the pin out. Hopefully they'll come out nice and easy.

For the seals, easiest and cheaper way is often to pull the seals out, go to an hydraulic shop and have them measure and figure out the seals you need.

For the bleeding process, it's not necessary. Put everything back together and just cycle that function back and forth a couple times. You'll notice it won't react at first due to all the air, but keep holding the lever and it will eventually move. Then do it in the other direction. Repeat a couple times and it's good to go. Check the hydraulic fluid level in the end.

Back to the 3 pt, yes, WD40 will be good enough for now. If it works, you may want something that actually lubes and holds for some time.

This is a grey market tractor, and with these tractors, manuals are nearly impossible to find for most models. Same applies for parts as well.

On a better note, since they sold so many grey market tractors all over Europe, people literally imported 12 meter containers full of those, some good websites with parts also started popping up online, which is a great thing. I'll see if I can remember some of them.

https://traktor60.hu/main-site?nyelv=en

Mitsubishi parts - traktor.com.pl

Mitsubishi Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. is part of the Mitsubishi group that was established in 1980 and is responsible for the production and sale of agricultural machinery, mainly tractors, tractors and combines.

traktor.com.pl

Yenibiz Online store KUBOTA ISEKI YANMAR tractor spare parts & engines…

All spare parts for tractors in our selection for the maintenance and repair of agricultural machines Iseki, Kubota, Mitsubishi, Yanmar and others.

www.yenibiz.co.uk

Thanks for your nicely written and thorough reply!

Good to have those links saved. There are quite a few (about 5-6) major distributors in my domestic market, the more available options the better.

Grey market thrived the last 20 years,however the majority of tractors imported in european countries were garden oriented, so we talk about very small tractors of 12-17 hp , 450-700 kg (1000-1500 lbs). Small-medium and medium tractor category not so many, because most buyers need a tractor with license plates.
Maybe barns and greenhouse industry has built a parallel market for bigger grey market tractors and its true there are some peripheral parts available.
But I am afraid this is not the case for heavy industry spares ,especially products of machining.
The lack of workshop manuals and spare parts list broad availability is serious issue for used spare parts market, since there is no broader information of compatibility among models of same make. A yard or pivate owner may want to break a gray market tractor but who is gonna do that if there is no data available both for seller and buyer?

 

[ptsg]

Thanks for your nicely written and thorough reply!

Good to have those links saved. There are quite a few (about 5-6) major distributors in my domestic market, the more available options the better.

Grey market thrived the last 20 years,however the majority of tractors imported in european countries were garden oriented, so we talk about very small tractors of 12-17 hp , 450-700 kg (1000-1500 lbs). Small-medium and medium tractor category not so many, because most buyers need a tractor with license plates.
Maybe barns and greenhouse industry has built a parallel market for bigger grey market tractors and its true there are some peripheral parts available.
But I am afraid this is not the case for heavy industry spares ,especially products of machining.
The lack of workshop manuals and spare parts list broad availability is serious issue for used spare parts market, since there is no broader information of compatibility among models of same make. A yard or pivate owner may want to break a gray market tractor but who is gonna do that if there is no data available both for seller and buyer?

You're exactly right on the used parts deal. There some dealers over here that will part out these tractors but like you said, with no parts manual, the buyer pretty much needs to take his broken part to the dealer so they can literally match it side by side.

The lack of license plate is probably the biggest con on these grey market tractors. At on point, people found some sort of workaround here in Portugal and managed to get some of these tractors registered with title and license plate. The price for those tractors increased by around 1000€ to 3000€ depending on the models.

I don't even know how they managed to do it since a Certificate of Conformity from the manufacturer is necessary to be able to register these tractors and have a license plate.

 

[Spiros-GR]

Go to this message thread and download the helpful PDF file for your MT2801D.

MITSUBISHI - SATOH TRACTOR INFORMATION, PARTS, AND SUPPORT - updated - REV 3.21

The MITSUBISHI - SATOH TRACTOR INFORMATION, PARTS, AND SUPPORT.PDF has finally been updated. It's no longer in that difficult to read and no possible to search older PDF format. Edwin Krampitz wrote the first edition. He did a fine job at it. However, Ed Krampitz tractor historian passed...

www.tractorbynet.com

See attached PDF. And the 4DQ30 was also produced in the Netherlands for Mitsubishi forklifts.

You're exactly right on the used parts deal. There some dealers over here that will part out these tractors but like you said, with no parts manual, the buyer pretty much needs to take his broken part to the dealer so they can literally match it side by side.

The lack of license plate is probably the biggest con on these grey market tractors. At on point, people found some sort of workaround here in Portugal and managed to get some of these tractors registered with title and license plate. The price for those tractors increased by around 1000€ to 3000€ depending on the models.

I don't even know how they managed to do it since a Certificate of Conformity from the manufacturer is necessary to be able to register these tractors and have a license plate.

Portuguese authorities seem more ground to earth compared to the ultra strict rules in Greece.
No matter what, those tractors are in far better state than many old tractors with license plates. And they could just ask japanese authorities for technical data in order to ask tractor owners or sellers to pay specialist mechanician to sign the necessary conformity certificate.

 

[Spiros-GR]

Go to this message thread and download the helpful PDF file for your MT2801D.

MITSUBISHI - SATOH TRACTOR INFORMATION, PARTS, AND SUPPORT - updated - REV 3.21

The MITSUBISHI - SATOH TRACTOR INFORMATION, PARTS, AND SUPPORT.PDF has finally been updated. It's no longer in that difficult to read and no possible to search older PDF format. Edwin Krampitz wrote the first edition. He did a fine job at it. However, Ed Krampitz tractor historian passed...

www.tractorbynet.com

See attached PDF. And the 4DQ30 was also produced in the Netherlands for Mitsubishi forklifts.

Dear maverick ,that excellent file was the first I read in Mitsubishi subforum.
The authors of this compilation of information deserves our greatest regards!

I know about the engine manual,I wonder why workshop one is not available!
Despite of that, even the issue of engine oil type is not mentioned! And most users make guesses! I myself want to replace all fluids of my new 2801 and have no official data to follow for the engine oil. Seller told me he used 20-50 , but I read by many users of 4DQ30 that for hot climates 10-30 is recommended....

 

[bmaverick]

Dear maverick ,that excellent file was the first I read in Mitsubishi subforum.
The authors of this compilation of information deserves our greatest regards!

I know about the engine manual,I wonder why workshop one is not available!
Despite of that, even the issue of engine oil type is not mentioned! And most users make guesses! I myself want to replace all fluids of my new 2801 and have no official data to follow for the engine oil. Seller told me he used 20-50 , but I read by many users of 4DQ30 that for hot climates 10-30 is recommended....

Nealy all the Japan compact utility tractors use 10W30 for summer and 5W30 winter. For extreme heat above 86F / 30C, SAE 30 is ideal.

Do NOT use the 20W50. Diesel engines do not 'rev' like Japan motorcycles. Japan diesel engines are made to JIS standards and not SAE. Do not use thick viscosity oils in Japan diesel engines. This will retain hotter temps longer in the engine, increase soot levels and the poor engine has to work harder. All 3 of those can lead to a warped engine head.