Box Blade 101

[Snapper Head]

So what do I need to know about box blades before I buy one?

It will be used on dirt, no snow or ice.

Kubota L3940 tractor.


Big Al

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Get one that is either the same width as your tractor or maybe 6" wider. (3" each side) The heavier the better, a 1000lb unit would be nice. Do you have any rear remotes? A hydraulic top link and side link ("TnT") are very useful when using about any grading implement. Hydraulic actuated rippers are nice to have also, but you would have to have a remote to be able to use those.

Good luck with your search.

 

[/pine]

...A hydraulic top link and side link ("TnT") are very useful ...

I could not agree more...just the hydraulic toplink will keep you in the seat at least 50% more than having to make manual adjustments...

...Hydraulic actuated rippers are nice to have also...

man! MtVR...you just don't know when to quit do you...!? but I do wish my bb was constructed so it would not be so difficult to add hydraulic actuators to the scarifiers...

 

[Ford tractor]

Weight, more is better.

 

[radman1]

Weight is an advantage. With weight comes heavier metal and strength. A 1000# box blade is going to be really $$. For the size of your tractor, one in the 650-700# range will still be heavier than most box blades. I have a +1000# box blade and have used it on CUTs but it is more blade than the CUT really needs. If you set the rippers right, a hydraulic toplink can be used to tip the box blade forward to engage the ripper or tip the blade back to raise the rippers enough to just move dirt. A dedicated hydraulic ripper works even better. Definitely go wider than the tires so you can get close to structures or objects. If you really want to shape/contour the ground, the hydraulic side link becomes essential.

I saw a contractor using two, John deere 7520's with FELs doing final grading on the sides of my road they are paving in front of my house. Pure, hard nasty clay. That is a 175 pto, 14,000 lb, MFWD tractor handling a 7' box blade. Their blades were not much heavier than my heavy box blade and about the same width (mine is an 80"). Surprised me they used tractors that big.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If the conditions are right, my 81" 1000lb roll over box blade will stop my 12,000lb tractor.

 

[TripleR]

I really can't improve on the advice given so far. I have the hydraulic toplink, but not TnT. I have used them and they are nice.

I use a fairly lightweight unit, but it works well for my uses which are mostly road work.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I could not agree more...just the hydraulic toplink will keep you in the seat at least 50% more than having to make manual adjustments...
man! MtVR...you just don't know when to quit do you...!? but I do wish my bb was constructed so it would not be so difficult to add hydraulic actuators to the scarifiers...

Hey, he asked about what he needed to know about them before he bought one. Best to know all the options before making the big decision.

 

[Snapper Head]

Thanks gentlemen. I think 1000 pounder would be overkill (although, I typically like overkill). I do have two rear remotes, and as I have been learning more I have been leaning toward getting a hydraulic top link. I want to have more seat time before making that move. I have only been able to put 8 hours on it so far (I travel 6.78 trillion miles a year............).

TripleR - how wide is that unit in the picture?


Big Al

 

[jmc]

Another big factor is whether the rear facing blade is hinged so it drops down automatically in reverse to cut aggressively. The other, more common style is fixed so that you need to tilt the box blade backward to engage the rear facing blade in reverse. There's pros and cons to both styles and it might be a good idea to do a TBN search. My biggest con on the fixed style is the dirt gets packed up in the dead space between the two blades and then it doesn't penetrate in EITHER direction. From time to time you need to get down and scrape out the dirt- difficult with all those bolt heads protruding in there. We've got mostly clay here so it may be more of a problem than with sandy soil.

John