Brake Drain Plug

[cnsJohn]

There is a small drain plug on the bottom side of the brake housing. What is it for? Should oil poor out when it is removed?

Thank you in advance for your advise.

JohnJ

 

[RonMar]

The brake compartment should be dry. I am guessing the drain is to let out water? There is a seal inboard of the brake housing, and if that failed, you would see some oil leakage into the brake compartment from the gearbox...

 

[cnsJohn]

Thank you for the prompt reply. Your reply confirmed by dreaded suspecion...ugh. i've removed the plug a couple of times and quickly put it back in, thinking i was loosing some valuable oil. The brakes on that side are useless.

Anyone have suggestions for parts that should be changed while im in there? The tractor only has 200 hours on it, so the plates should be decent, but how about other parts?

 

[KoonHunter51]

I have a 304 with exactly same failure, but brakes still work very good.
I first noticed a little oil on rubber cap at brake rod. I opened drain & about 5 to 8 oz. oil came out.
Have since drained brake 2 more times & very little oil, 2or3 oz dripped out.
155 hrs on tractor; Brakes work fine so I am hoping only seal leak fix/replace is required
Part # for the inner seal & o-ring in parts manual,
Seal: JB/T 2600-1980 size mm PD55x75x12
O-Ring: GB 3452.1-1992 size mm 33.5x3.55

Check out thread: Saturday Repair Jinma 354 Brakes
Also: ranchandsupply has a great pictorial on 300 series brakes

 

[cnsJohn]

KoonHunter,

Thank you for the reply and information. I had planned to replace the seals and o-ring, but wanted to be sure I didn't miss any other brake parts that might commonly go out.

JohnJ

 

[cnsJohn]

Part # for the inner seal & o-ring in parts manual,
Seal: JB/T 2600-1980 size mm PD55x75x12
O-Ring: GB 3452.1-1992 size mm 33.5x3.55

Does anyone know if it's possible to replace these seals and o-ring, without removing the fender?

 

[KoonHunter51]

JohnJ,
I have my seals & O-Rings on hand & will tackle replacement soon.
Just by looking, I first thought removing the 2 long U-Bolts (ROPS) on mine would get enough access, BUT,
Now, It looks like the floor pan & fender probably will come off. (8 Bolts Fender & ROPS), 6 Bolts Pan)
The brake housing has to be almost completely removed, & I'm not sure the activation rod mechanism can come off unless clear.
If you find out differently, please advise.
David

 

[cnsJohn]

Thank you for the reply. I pretty much came to the same conclusion last night. If it's not raining, I plan to attempt the repair this evening. I'll probably remove the wheel as well. Seems like a lot of work for a simple repair. But good brakes are an absolute necessity, as I mow many steep hills. Brakes allow me to shift between reverse and low without racing down the hill in neutral (been there done that).

JohnJ

 

[KoonHunter51]

OK, Keep me posted as how replace/repair goes.
I'm not be able to do mine until 1st of next week.
David

 

[cnsJohn]

The repair went a planned. it required (for me) about 4 hours. The only real surprises was the 8mm allen style bolts that hold the housing to the tractor, and the amout of oil loss during the repair. Get our your hex drivers for your rachet to make the removal easier. Also not show in my manual was a c-clamp holding the spacer in place. I also lost about 1.5 gallon of 80/90, so have some on hand or catch what you have in a clean container. I only had to remove the fender to do the repair, but I've got my wheels spaced our to the third spacing.

Re-adjusting the brakes to stop equally took another hour...what a pain.

Good luck with your repair.

JohnJ