Brake Pdela Pusher?

[chopped]

Not sure where to ask this question. But its turned into a project for me LOL
I find myself having to get help to bleed brake cylinders on the cars oftne and I saw a rod once that would ratchet up a spring that would then sit against the seat of the car and press the brake pedal down as I opened the bleeder. Thus allowing one person to bleed them.
Ive searched many name to find them online but come up with nothing. I was wondering if anyone knows of this tool or what i might search for a name..
I think this would be a good long time tool to have .
Thanks..:thumbsup:
Just found the patent for it here. so you have an idea what im talking about .
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6131712/description.html

 

[kennyd]

Not sure where to ask this question. But its turned into a project for me LOL
I find myself having to get help to bleed brake cylinders on the cars oftne and I saw a rod once that would ratchet up a spring that would then sit against the seat of the car and press the brake pedal down as I opened the bleeder. Thus allowing one person to bleed them.
Ive searched many name to find them online but come up with nothing. I was wondering if anyone knows of this tool or what i might search for a name..
I think this would be a good long time tool to have .
Thanks..:thumbsup:
Just found the patent for it here. so you have an idea what im talking about .
Brake pedal actuator for bleeding brakes - US Patent 6131712 Description

All you need to bleed brakes by yourself is a vacuum pump like this: Lisle 75000 - Heavy Duty Repairable Hand Vacuum Pump#

You just open the bleeder and "pull" fluid through it from the master cylinder. Easy one man job. Works very well for just changing the fluid also.

 

[beeforty]

There is also the "Mighty Vac" that will both pump air or apply a vacuum. Comes with a jar so when bleeding you don't pull old fluid into pump. :ashamed: That holder you show is also used for hold your gas pedal down at a fixed RPM when needed in the shop.

 

[Mace Canute]

I have used a hand held vacuum pump to bleed brakes many times and have always been successful with it, so I'll add my vote to the others recommending that option.

 

[Damifino]

As stated above, I purchased this Brake Bleeder And Vacuum Pump Kit & Other Vacuum Brake Bleeders - HFT

It works great on the 4 vehicles I have done with it, does priming of m.c. and bleeds each wheel, great to just change out water contaminated fluid also. just make sure you keep fluid in m.c

 

[chopped]

Thanks I had considered the Harbor Freight one for some time
I looked at the reviews and they seem to be all over the place.But the bad ones stand out. I of course wonder sometimes , if people really abuse them or mis use them and they blame the product.I had a friend who was a drunk and he thought a small 19 volt ryobi circular saw should cut not only one but more 3/4 plywood ...:confused2: If he could of course he would give a bad review..
Yous seem to have had good luck with the HF bleeder it seems..:thumbsup:So I might take the gamble.One review said the inners would break and weren't compatible with brake fluid. But I find it har to believe they wouldn't be compatible
I value the TBN members reference more....:thumbsup:

 

[WH401]

Get a motive brake bleeder. It attaches to the master cylinder, you pump it up to pressure, and it bleeds new fluid in and the old fluid out. Go to each caliper and do that and it goes pretty quick.

 

[lostcause]

One review said the inners would break and weren't compatible with brake fluid.

i'm not familiar with that specific tool, but i am familiar with the mityvac vacuum pump, and i know it says it's not compatible with brake fluid. the whole point of the tool is NOT to get brake (or any fluid) into the pump. the pump is meant to pump air, not fluid. the fluid movement is a function of the air that is moved. the mityvac can be had for $30-$50 depending on whether you want the whole tool kit in the plastic case. they work great for one person bleeding, and in fact, it's faster than finding someone to sit in the seat and say: down, up, down, up, etc.

 

[nikdfish]

Way back, as a kid, it seemed like I couldn't afford to buy/drive something I didn't first have to work on - almost always alone. A trick I saw once & used from then on was to bleed all four slave cylinders at once.

It requires 4 pieces of hose long enough to reach the ground from the nipple, 4 small jars & enough fluid to mostly fill the jars. (I'd pick up unused medicine bottles from a pharmacy so no worries about trace water). Each hose runs from a bleed nipple to a jar, with the end submerged. Make sure the fluid reservoir is topped up, then loosen all 4 nipples. Work the brake pedal back & forth. Any air in the lines bubbles to the top & fluid is sucked in to replace it on the return stroke. Tighten the nipples, take off the hoses & properly dispose of the excess fluid. You should be good to go.

Nick

 

[lostcause]

Way back, as a kid, it seemed like I couldn't afford to buy/drive something I didn't first have to work on - almost always alone. A trick I saw once & used from then on was to bleed all four slave cylinders at once.

It requires 4 pieces of hose long enough to reach the ground from the nipple, 4 small jars & enough fluid to mostly fill the jars. (I'd pick up unused medicine bottles from a pharmacy so no worries about trace water). Each hose runs from a bleed nipple to a jar, with the end submerged. Make sure the fluid reservoir is topped up, then loosen all 4 nipples. Work the brake pedal back & forth. Any air in the lines bubbles to the top & fluid is sucked in to replace it on the return stroke. Tighten the nipples, take off the hoses & properly dispose of the excess fluid. You should be good to go.

Nick

i'm not exactly sure how that would work for you. the old fashioned (2-person) bleed required the person in the driver's sear to push the pedal down. the mechanic would then loosen the bleeder screw to evacuate the air along with some brake fluid, then re-tighten the bleed screw. rinse and repeat until only fluid comes through.

if you just left the bleed screw open continuously, you would evacuate air when the pedal was pushed down, but with the screw still open you would pull air back in through the bleed screw when the pedal is released and the master cylinder retracts.