Brake Pdela Pusher?

[chopped]

Thats what I thought..

 

[nikdfish]

Nope, that's the reason for the jar/glass medicine bottle with fluid in it for each bleed location. The hose end is below the fluid surface. Air is expelled from the line, via the hose, & bubbles to the top. On the return stroke, fluid is sucked in from the jar, via the hose, instead of air coming back in. It is most efficient if the bleed nipple to jar distance is as short as possible. It does work.

If you keep adding fluid to the reservoir you can pretty much purge the old fluid - maybe not completely, but the majority - replacing it with new. You'd need big enough jars to accommodate the purged amount.

Nick

 

[SHORT KID]

when I worked on my truck, I installed speed bleeders and they work great. I ordered them when I knew I was going to do the work and had them on hand before time. They may not be practical if you do a lot of different work. :thumbsup:

 

[lostcause]

Nope, that's the reason for the jar/glass medicine bottle with fluid in it for each bleed location. The hose end is below the fluid surface. Air is expelled from the line, via the hose, & bubbles to the top. On the return stroke, fluid is sucked in from the jar, via the hose, instead of air coming back in. It is most efficient if the bleed nipple to jar distance is as short as possible. It does work.

If you keep adding fluid to the reservoir you can pretty much purge the old fluid - maybe not completely, but the majority - replacing it with new. You'd need big enough jars to accommodate the purged amount.

Nick

ok, i see what you are saying now. i didn't catch that at first. makes sense in theory, though as you said, it'll take a lot of fluid and big jars. couple of other things i'd be concerned about:

is if you are in the car pushing the pedal, how do you know when you have all of the air out of each caliper/wheel cylinder? if you are standing there at the wheel you can see when clear fluid comes out. if you are behind the steering wheel how do know when the bubbles stop?

when you have to bleed the system, it's because air has been introduced. this is most often due to a failed caliper/wheel/master cylinder, or a failed line. when these happen, you have the system open to the outside, and have the chance of introducing contaminants into the system, such as water or dirt. if you are bleeding into a canister, and then sucking it back into the system, you may get the air out, but you're also pulling contaminated fluid back in. granted, probably not a huge issue, but i'd prefer to use clean fluid. if you're bleeding all wheels, then you're also talking about quite a volume of brake fluid. wouldn't take more than a couple changes to warrant one of these:

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[nikdfish]

I remember last time I did this was on a volkswagon bug, laying on the ground & reaching up to work the pedal. I could watch the action & just repeated til the bubbles stopped. In between pedal presses, I'd check the reservoir level & add as needed (which wasn't really that much). It required only one can of fluid to do all the bottles + the topping off. I poured the left overs back in the can & disposed of it (partial bottles of brake fluid are not something I kept). With a small mouth bottle for your bubbler(s) & new pieces of hose, chances for environmental contamination during the process are pretty low.

It was a reasonable, low cost approach for my strapped for cash self at the time.

Nick