I've got a 2012 Branson 2800H tractor. The first winter I owned it, the temp was somewhere around 15F and when I started it, the Oil Cooler started spewing hydraulic fluid from the input (just below the fitting). I built a bypass hose, drove it onto my trailer, towed it to the dealership and they replaced the Oil Cooler with what I was told is the "improved part number". It worked well the rest of that year. I changed hydraulic fluid at the end of spring. No problems until it got cold. Sometime in mid January, about 15F again, the tractor started leaking at the rubber seal on the hydrostatic drive filter. I changed out the filter and all was good until today. I started the tractor, it was 18F, let it warm up about 2 or 3 minutes, lifted the bucket and pressed on the forward pedal. The Oil Cooler started spewing hydraulic fluid at the same location as the first cooler. I called the dealer, he is overnighting a new cooler, but I can't help but think that there's something causing this to happen. I'd sure like to find the cause before the warranty expires, but with the little knowledge I have of hydraulics, I'm out of ideas.
So far, I have ruled out the fluid. I use NAPA 85-475 fluid (per dealer's recommendations), the filters are new (changed the fluid and filters in late August), there is no corrosion on the Oil Cooler or fittings. and the fluid, to the best of my knowledge is clear (but thick and cold) with no water that I can find.
I've got an idea (work around) that I think will work for extreme cold weather operation: Bypass the Oil Cooler and eliminate the problem. My concern is that if I do, will I be eliminating the "weakest link" and moving the potential for damage to a more expensive component? Or ????
Any thoughts on how to stop this from happening while I'm still in warranty would be appreciated...
Thanks
John
So far, I have ruled out the fluid. I use NAPA 85-475 fluid (per dealer's recommendations), the filters are new (changed the fluid and filters in late August), there is no corrosion on the Oil Cooler or fittings. and the fluid, to the best of my knowledge is clear (but thick and cold) with no water that I can find.
I've got an idea (work around) that I think will work for extreme cold weather operation: Bypass the Oil Cooler and eliminate the problem. My concern is that if I do, will I be eliminating the "weakest link" and moving the potential for damage to a more expensive component? Or ????
Any thoughts on how to stop this from happening while I'm still in warranty would be appreciated...
Thanks
John