3-Point Hitch Branson 3510i PTO problem

[reverett]

Here's a parts break down that covers Branson 2910, 3510, 3820, 4220, 4720, 2910i, 3110i, 3510i, 3820i, 4220i, 4720i Not sure how long it will be available on the Internet so you may want to print it to a PDF file (it's 180 pages)
http://www.branson-global.com/service/1020 SERIES CHASSIS (061110).pdf

 

[LincTex]

What does this PTO solenoid actually do?

My 2005 model 3510i has a small lever under the left side front of the seat - You pull up for 1000 RPM and down for 540 RPM. Does the solenoid affect one speed only, or both?

 

[reverett]

What does this PTO solenoid actually do?

My 2005 model 3510i has a small lever under the left side front of the seat - You pull up for 1000 RPM and down for 540 RPM. Does the solenoid affect one speed only, or both?

The coil controls the PTO (turns it on and off) doesn't matter what the RPM lever is set at. Read the previous post for what the coil does

 

[reverett]

What does this PTO solenoid actually do?
[/COLOR]
My 2005 model 3510i has a small lever under the left side front of the seat - You pull up for 1000 RPM and down for 540 RPM. Does the solenoid affect one speed only, or both?

I'm confused.... Are you trying to actually solve a problem you are having? Or just posting questions to cause people to backup their answers? That was the most ridiculous question I've seen posted on this site for someone that has actually done any troubleshooting of their own. That question was answered and with good detail. Just curious

 

[LincTex]

Are you always this abrasive to everyone?

I'm only on a quest for knowledge - - that is all.
I like to learn about the problems others have, before I have to deal with them myself.

All of my experiences with PTO drives in tractors (until now) involve a "sliding coupler" - a very simple & trouble-free design. This solenoid business is new to me.

 

[reverett]

Are you always this abrasive to everyone?

I'm only on a quest for knowledge - - that is all.
I like to learn about the problems others have, before I have to deal with them myself.

All of my experiences with PTO drives in tractors (until now) involve a "sliding coupler" - a very simple & trouble-free design. This solenoid business is new to me.

I will always cheerfully help anyone I can with a solution to a problem I have experienced.

The reason for forums to look for help with a problem you are experiencing. Nothing can replace hands on experience as a way of gaining knowledge. If you're having a problem search for the answer. If you can't find the answer THEN post a question. But to post questions without even know what to ask or how to identify a solution to fit your symptoms is just a waste of everyone's time.

 

[LincTex]

The reason for forums to look for help with a problem you are experiencing.

No, The REAL reason for these forums is to *learn* about problems ...
long BEFORE they actually become problems.

...is just a waste of everyone's time.

No, Waiting until "after" it breaks to learn to fix something is a waste of time.......
and & also a money losing proposition, as well.

I'm the kind of guy who changes a water pump after 9 years when everyone else is experiencing failure at 10 years of use.
I'll spend the $20 and buy this replacement solenoid coil now why it's available and put it on the shelf.
That's "cheap insurance" if the day comes I need one and don't CAN'T wait 2-3 weeks to get one.

The question you should be asking is: "Why did it fail in the first place"?
Maybe the internal resistance is too high and can't handle the full 12 volts, causing it to overheat?
I'd rather save the one I have now instead of waiting for it to fail............

Perhaps a ceramic ballast resistor (ala 60's Chrysler & Ford) should be used in the power lead to protect the solenoid from excessive current draw?

 

[psyched123]

I received the coil in from Lee's today and put it on the tractor. However, no PTO light. I tested the current at the coil (should have done this a long time ago) and there was none. I then went to the fuse box and found that the fuse was hot. Only thing left is the switch and the wires.

As I was testing current in the wires at the different switch positions, the PTO light came on. It's now working perfectly. Turns out it was a flaky PTO switch all along. So far, the switch is working fine. However, if the light goes out, again, it's a new switch for sure.

Thanks for all your help. It was probably time to replace that old coil anyway.

 

[reverett]

I received the coil in from Lee's today and put it on the tractor. However, no PTO light. I tested the current at the coil (should have done this a long time ago) and there was none. I then went to the fuse box and found that the fuse was hot. Only thing left is the switch and the wires.

As I was testing current in the wires at the different switch positions, the PTO light came on. It's now working perfectly. Turns out it was a flaky PTO switch all along. So far, the switch is working fine. However, if the light goes out, again, it's a new switch for sure.

Thanks for all your help. It was probably time to replace that old coil anyway.

I'll bet if you put your old coil back on you'll see the problem again. Coils can take a few minutes to energize the first power up.

 

[psyched123]

After I put the coil on and the light didn't go on, I disconnected the coil and put test probes in the spade coil connectors. There was no current going to the coil.

When I played with the switch and the light came on, the coil was disconnected. I put the probes back in the coil connectors and the current was now registering on the meter. Put the connectors on the coil and we're working, again. It was the flaky switch that wasn't getting current to the coil.