Brick Fence Pillars

   / Brick Fence Pillars #1  

GarthH

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
184
Location
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
I thinking of making a fence that will have brick pillars about 4 foot high. I'm trying to figure out whether the pillar should have a wood core? In addition I can't really figure out how the cross members will tie into the brick. Would a galvanized bracket be good or just leave an opening in the brick for a 2 x 4?

Has anyone seen a "how to" set of instructions for this type of project?

Thanks

Garth
 
   / Brick Fence Pillars #2  
If you're planning on making the post pig enough to have a 5" post in the middle, (which will eventually rot due to the corrosive properties of portland in the brick mortar) why not dig your normal 12" or so post hole, add some rebar and fill the whole thing with concrete - leaving the rebar to stick out a foot or so, and build your brick pillar on that - then fill the core with concrete.

as to attachment points, I've seen folks set flat steel plates or 2x4 box beams in the brickwork so they stick out a couple of inches that way wood can be attached to that and you don't have to fight it into a socket inthe post. I'd hit any metal with a coating of epoxy paint to limit rust/corrosion from the mortar, though.
 
   / Brick Fence Pillars #3  
How thick do you want the brick pillars?

I have a thread on here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/44358-creating-entrance.html?highlight=Creating+Entrance that I built colums that I finished in cultured stone with a three rail vinyl fence tied into them. Using brick would be done the same way.

Dig a hole into the ground below your frost line for your footing. Then frame out the dimensions you want your colums to be with 2x4's. Basic sizes are usually based on the size cinder blocks you want to use. Small square blocks are 8 inches. You can stack them up and fill with concrete and rebar for maximum strength, or just stack them with mortor, which is the most common method around here. I took two 8 inch by 16 inch cinder blocks and stacked them on top of each other to build my columns. That gave me a 16 inch square to start with. To support your brick, you need the base to be the size of your cinderblocks PLUS the width of the brick.

On another project, I used four cinder blocks for each level of the column for a 24 inch square.

My guess is that you want two cinder blocks per level for a 16 inch square column plus the brick. This is the most common size for fences, gates and mailboxes.

For added strength, put a few pieces of 3/8 rebar into your base before pouring the concrete. After the concrete is dry, just mix your mortor and install the blocks. Take your time to make sure they are level and plumb. It's not hard work, but unless you do it all the time, it's slow and tedious because you have to keep checking your work to get it right.

After that's all dry, you can do the bricks. Again, go slow and take your time. To cut the bricks, you can either buy a masonary saw bladie for $40 to cut them with a 7 1/4 inch saw, but a bigger blade and cut them with a chop saw, or practice breaking them with a chisel. If you use the chop saw, it's better to have a metal one. I've destroyed wood chop saws doing this, so unless it's a small job, it's not the best tool to use. If using the 7 1/4 inch saw, you just score each side of the brick and break them off. It's not the fastes way, but it works great on smaller jobs. Of course, you can always rent a wet saw to get perfect cuts.

To put in the fence rails, you can either leave the bricks out where you want them to go and slide them in when you are done, you can put them into place and brick around them, or you can buy/make brackets to attach them to the brick after you are done.

If you leave the holes in the brick when installing the brick, be absolutely positive of your measurements. When I did mine, I hade the fence in place and the rails there to get it right.

What are you using for rails? If wood, then dimensions are pretty standard. If vinyl, they vary. They are all called 2x6, but some are true to that, and other brands are lumber dimensions. Be sure to have your rails on hand to get it right.

Are you running electricity to the tops of your columns? Lights, outlets or automatic gates? Are you putting in a gate? If it's your main entrance, you want that gate wider then you'd probably guess. Mine is 24 feet wide and real nice for big rigs to get in and out of. I wouldn't want an entrance gate any less then 16 feet. That would be the absolute minimum. I've had gates that small and they are a tight fit sometimes.

If you ever pull a trailer or will have people with a trailer coming there, is the gate far enough off the road so you don't block traffic when parked at the gate? If it's not a perfectly straight shot coming in, then make sure there's plenty of room for the trailer coming in through the gate. Trailers cut corners allot faster then the vehicle towing them. Longer trailers just make this a bigger issue.

Eddie
 
   / Brick Fence Pillars
  • Thread Starter
#4  
What an amazing project you did. It looked like it took all season but it was sure well worth it.

I always hate to hear to drill below the frost line. In the north it is at least 6' and more likely 8'. I'm also looking at getting an upgrade on our house which needs footings - I'm told that their should be as much through the frost as in the frost; that is likely a 12' hole and maybe 16'. Not likely doable with a PHD.

I was thinking about using our tree augur 24" and sink it as far as I can - likely 4'.

The rebar ideal had gone through my mind - thank you for clarification. We have a pile of cindercrete blocks - from the old owner. Would it work to use them to the proper height and then use brick on the outside?

I would like to be able to use the brick fascia that you used. I don't know if they are commonly available - I will compare the price to std bricks.

I was thinking if I used brick I would need to use some type of metal holder to make sure the brick did not pull away from th core. Maybe something like rebar drilled into the cindercrete every two feet or so?

If spring would get here I could try a test pillar - ground is still frozen and we are going down to 0 F tonight.

Thank you again for the wonderful reference to your thread.

Garth
 
   / Brick Fence Pillars #5  
Garth,

There's more ways to lay brick then I'll ever learn. For what you are doing, it's easiest to just mortor them to the cinderblocks in the middle. For this, you don't need anything to tie them together. The mortor will do it for you.

I wish I could offar some help on the frost line. It's not something I have to deal with, so I don't have any knowledge on it. How deep are your fence posts? Do they ever come out?

The rock that I used on my colums was $9 a sq ft. It's kind of pricey, but for small areas, it's doable. Brick will be allot cheaper.

Eddie
 
   / Brick Fence Pillars #6  
If you choose the core size and brick size carefully, you should be able to build your columns without having to cut any bricks.

Chuck
 
   / Brick Fence Pillars #7  
to tie your brick to the cinder blocks - I've seen plumbers tape used. Cut to a few inches, put one end in the mortar as you put up the cinder blocks, sticking out long enough so that as you come up with your brick, you just set the other end in the brick mortar. Doesn't matter if it isn't quite on the same level - it may jog just a bit - the idea is to keep the brick tied to the cinder block. .....next question ....is it necessary? no idea.
 
   / Brick Fence Pillars #8  
There are brick anchors that you nail to wood and they fold onto a layer of bricks to tie a brick wall to a house, but wich cinder blocks, you morter the bricks to the block as well as each other. No need for metal or brackets when the brick is touching the blocks.

Eddie
 
 
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