Broke a bolt that has loctite on it - now what

[CATMAN]

If you can get the part angled to where the hole is flat, you can weld it out. They sell a rod for this , I think its called easy out or somthing and sold by Fourney at most hardware stores. You use the rod to build up metal to the top of the hole,chip out the slag( it will be heavy) then place a washer around the hole and weld with 6011 rod the washer to the bolt, then weld on a nut. Try to twist it out, I may break the nut off at the weld and you will have to repeat this 3 or four times but it will work.
The heat from welding will break the loctite, will localize the heat to the bolt rather than the whole part like heating with a torch will, and it will not damage the threads. I have even used this on a aluminum trolling motor mount with a stainless steel bolt that was saltwater corroded. No damage.

I have heard of people using a mig welder for this also.

We use "Extracto" rod on broken exhaust manifold studs in engine cylinder heads. I say it works 70% of the time, but when it doesn't, now you have to use a carbide bit on a die-grinder to grind out the weld and the stud. Sometimes it is just easier to drill them out right from the beginning. We have jigs for this on some cylinder heads.

Your situation sounds like a little heat first, then drill to the size of an easy-out, and try to remove. You can always try welding later as a option.​

 

[HarryVanderpool]

A lot of good suggestions here.
I would add one thing:
Regardless of what route you take to remove the bolt, right after you have melted the Loctite and the assembly has cooled down, take a flat tipped punch slightly smaller in Diameter and a hammer and SMACK it a good one.
That is,, if you didn't bottom out the bolt and thats why it broke off.
If thats what happened, you're on your own.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Most of the reds that arent rated Hi Temp weaken by more than 50% by the time you get to 400F. The hidden 'beauty' of the situation is that the broken stud and hole have been preserved in good condition by the loctite sealed thread. Drill for the the biggest easy out you can use, heat the casting until water sizzles, insert tool and wrench quickly because the Loctite will re harden as it cools. Also you want to get it done before the tool gets full hot if you can. No way you will destroy the loctite below red heat so you almost have to soften it and do it "warm".
larry

 

[Soundguy]

Home Cheapo

I like that... funny

soundguy

 

[R W]

Drill before heating or welding. If the drilled hole is large enough run a weld
along the inside of it.
have found the weld and washer idea to be mostly successful, a piece of flat
bar 3/16x1 welded end on to the built up weld is ideal for screwing the the
stud out using a shifter, This method can often take several attempts, recently removed a broken 7/16" head stud this way.

 

[chickenman]

try to get a reverse twist drill if you go the drill route, it may come out while drilling

is this a place where you could make and use a drill guide?

if so that would help

 

[orangebluegreen]

I had one on the alternator bolt of a Dodge 440 motorhome with very poor accessibility. Not even loctite and broke off ez-out's in the bolt which is even harder to drill. In desperation (and at risk of destroying the cylinder head or fix it) I burned out the bolt with an oxyacetylene torch. You didn't mention what type of metal the bolt was in, cast iron is harder to melt than steel so if you're good with a torch it can be done easy enough. The risk is too much heat causing a cracked head, and that is a risk you won't know if you won until after you're done, so last resort. I had ruined the threads already with bigger and bigger drill bits so Heli-Coiled the hole and like new now. Heli-Coils are stainless so you usually wont have seizure again. High risk fix so not for everyone.

 

[chriswheeler]

Red loctite does break it's bond in the 400 degree range. You didn't say what size bolt, smaller is harder to extract. Can the area around the bolt take heat?? If it can, heat FIRST ( with grade 8 ) to a red color and quench with a penetrating oil, let cool. Note that heating first also aneals the bolt some and makes the drilling easier. Drill as close to the center of the bolt as you can with a drill that is no more than 70% of the OD if the bolt. Next is easy out. If it doesn't move, heat again and quench in penetrating oil, try again while cool. Most of the time this will remove the bolt if it isn't bottomed in the threads. If it doesn't come out with the above, drill with the tap drill and clean up with the proper tap.
Chris

 

[638]

Well, come back and tell us what the outcome was. What was the bolt in, and why did you use locktite on it?

ron

 

[KansasJim]

...if it isn't bottomed in the threads.

Sorry - could I get a translation on that? I just plain old don't know what that is.