Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool

   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool #1  

crazyal

Super Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2003
Messages
7,753
Location
Northern Vermont
Tractor
Kubota, Case, Deere
Got a fist size rock stuck between the chain and sprocket on my snowblower tonight and broke the chain. I would have thought that the shear pin would have gone first but it didn't. Tractor Supply had the chain in stock (10' more than twice what I need). It's 60h chain and it came with a master link but I would rather rivet the chain back on. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a breaker (was looking at a Koch). I have a breaker for motorcycle chains that just isn't quite large enough but it will push the pins out then drive them back in. I assume that the Koch breaker will not push the pin back in since it's a different style. I wouldn't mind a riveting tool but have used a hammer to peen the end of the pin. Here's an image of the Koch breaker.
31mI16Y5ItL._SX355_.jpg
 
   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool #2  
Standard roller chain is typically not riveted as a repair. Use common connector or offset links using cotter pins or clips to retain. There are two sizes of chain tools similar to the one you pictured. One is good up to #50 chain, the other from 60-100. In the absence of a dedicated tool, grind the rivets flush with the side strap on one side and drive the pins out with a punch.
 
   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool #4  
The grinder and punch trick works well. Personally I'd use a master link. I've used them on a number of racing and offroad motorcycles with no problems. If you're concerned about the clip popping off you can do what they do for racing motorcycles- glue it on with silicone sealer (after cleaning all the oil off the link and clip). Done right you'll be cursing it when it's time to get the clip off. Or you can tie it on with safety wire. Wire run right between the inner side plates won't get cut by the sprockets. Don't forget to turn the cut end under so it doesn't cut someone's hands. I always double check that I put the clip on in the right direction, and I put it on with the sharp side facing out, like you do with circlips.
 
   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool #5  
Grinder, punch, master link, done..
 
   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool
  • Thread Starter
#6  
The grinder and punch trick works well. Personally I'd use a master link. I've used them on a number of racing and offroad motorcycles with no problems. If you're concerned about the clip popping off you can do what they do for racing motorcycles- glue it on with silicone sealer (after cleaning all the oil off the link and clip). Done right you'll be cursing it when it's time to get the clip off. Or you can tie it on with safety wire. Wire run right between the inner side plates won't get cut by the sprockets. Don't forget to turn the cut end under so it doesn't cut someone's hands. I always double check that I put the clip on in the right direction, and I put it on with the sharp side facing out, like you do with circlips.

It's not the clip popping off that I had problems with on motorcycles it's the clip wearing down and failing. I took the old chain apart and found that even though I was using either motorcycle chain oil or fluid film to keep it well lubricated there was no oil on the pins. Years ago a had a neighbor that would remove chains and put them in a pot full of a mixture of bar oil and some sort of grease. Then he would heat it up for a few hours to get things to flow easily. I don't think I'll go that far but I'm now thinking that maybe if I'll remove the chain in the spring and store it in bar oil over summer. If so I'll just use the master.
 
   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool
  • Thread Starter
#7  
   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Standard roller chain is typically not riveted as a repair. Use common connector or offset links using cotter pins or clips to retain. There are two sizes of chain tools similar to the one you pictured. One is good up to #50 chain, the other from 60-100. In the absence of a dedicated tool, grind the rivets flush with the side strap on one side and drive the pins out with a punch.

Back when I was motorcycle racing we would do it all the time. The metal clip on the master link would wear and break. Nothing like being miles from your truck doing a hare scramble and having to push your bike back because your master link filed. I don't see anything that should rub on the master and I have the clip on the opposite side as the auger so I'm going to leave it.
 
   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool #9  
Back when I was motorcycle racing we would do it all the time. The metal clip on the master link would wear and break. Nothing like being miles from your truck doing a hare scramble and having to push your bike back because your master link filed. I don't see anything that should rub on the master and I have the clip on the opposite side as the auger so I'm going to leave it.

I figured from your OP that riveting chain links was SOP in the cycle world. In my world (farm and CP stuff) it is not; hence my reply. Cottered connector links are better than those using clips, but the clip style is far more common.
 
   / Broke a roller chain tonight, any suggestions for breaker tool
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I figured from your OP that riveting chain links was SOP in the cycle world. In my world (farm and CP stuff) it is not; hence my reply. Cottered connector links are better than those using clips, but the clip style is far more common.

How well do the cotter pins stay in place? I've seen pictures but never one in real life. The cotter pins must be very small since the holes can't be very large due to the small diameter of the pin. I would have thought that that style chain was for a controlled environment where the risk of one getting damaged is small.

The original chain didn't have a master, I don't know if they did that simply because it's cheaper or if there was a reason behind it. If I don't know I try not to alter their decision.
 
 
Top