Broken Loader Mount; KL4030 & CK2610H

[SManZ350]

Totally bummed! I've got a CK2610H with KL4030 loader at around 185hrs. I noticed that the loader arms were askew while working yesterday and found that the right side loader mount bracket is cracked. We got the tractor back in June so the loader is still on the 12mo attachment warranty. I'll contact the dealer about it on Monday. What do you all think about this being covered? If the parts aren't readily available, what kind of downtime should I expect?

My other options are to buy a new bracket. The partsfiche on Michigan Iron and Equipment lists parts for the KL4010 and 4020 loaders, but not the 4030. M3510-51111 is the right side bracket for the KL4010 and appears to be similar to what I have on the KL4030. I have an email out to MIE to confirm. $640 though...

Or, my friend is a skilled welder. He can weld it back together and add a gusset, if we can bend it back to where it was. I'm hesitant about this option as it looks like the whole plate is weakened. In addition to the obvious crack, there is another one on this plate close to the pivot, which I've highlighted in the pic.
Two of the hard hydraulic lines with the T-fitting on the right loader arm caught the brush guard on the tractor when the loader was lowered while askew, so those are bent and one has a slow leak. Not sure if I can bend them back and tighten the fitting back up, but if not the two replacement hard lines are around $100.

 

[pcustoms]

Holy #hit, what have you been using the loader for?

That's not going to weld very well. Only chance would be to cut the damage, hold it back in place and reinforce (if possible) over the welds. The weld/bolt holes will always be a weak point though.

I'm going to cheek mine when I head outside in a bit....

What year is the tractor?

 

[SManZ350]

Holy #hit, what have you been using the loader for?

That's not going to weld very well. Only chance would be to cut the damage, hold it back in place and reinforce (if possible) over the welds. The weld/bolt holes will always be a weak point though.

I'm going to cheek mine when I head outside in a bit....

What year is the tractor?

I bought new in summer of 2019 but I'm not sure what the manufacture date is. I've been using it to move earth mostly. I was working on digging out a shooting range in a hillside and prior to that I graded out a flat spot in my sloped rear yard. I loosen everything up with several passes with a subsoiler and then pile up the dirt and move it with the loader.

 

[justman777]

I suspect it won't be covered under warranty. Ripping metal that thick is plenty hard to do, and I suspect the dealer is going to balk at replacing it. The dealer may even void your loader warranty for an "abuse" claim. I'd probably ask, but not be surprised if they say no, and be prepared to break out the checkbook for a replacement.

You'd need a very stout welder to even begin hitting something that thick. Probably have to bevel each part to nearly a 1/4 inch, pull it back together, weld it together, and then make successive passes to build up the metal. Bolt holes would be destroyed, but you could drill those out again. The danger in this approach (like you pointed out before) is the metal that hasn't broken is stressed/stretched, and more likely to break with continued use. I think you'd be better off in the long run with replacing it, and then go easier on your dirt work.

 

[rademamj1]

Re: Broken Loader Mount; KL4030 & CK2610H

You might claim its metal fatigue, because the damage occured right at the two mounting bolt holes, which potentially weaken the metal at that point. I would prepare a spreadsheet of past work history for you loader. Kioti may ask dealer to take dozens of photos of the entire tractor, looking for evidence of historical abuse. Kioti knows their tractors and may indeed fix under warranty, or go 50% cost with you on the repairs.

I would not do any welding on the part yet. First see if you can get it replaced under warranty, if not, just order a new replacement part from MIE at your own cost. Weld the old part, and keep it as a backup.

 

[crashz]

It doesn't look like an old break. It looks like a recent and catastrophic fail. Do you remember what you were doing that day that you noticed it? I'd try removing the loader and once on flat ground, see if anything on the loader or tractor is bent or broken. That piece is probably one of the most stout parts on the whole tractor. I'd be worried about the transmission case and loader arms. Definitely have to check mounting bolts and such.

I keep thinking about the scenario to break that section. Did you hit something immovable with that corner of the bucket? Back-dragging something and hit a rock? It wouldn't be from lifting heavy because I would think the tractor hydraulics would bypass WAY before a metal fatigue issue.

 

[crashz]

It doesn't look like an old break. It looks like a recent and catastrophic fail. Do you remember what you were doing that day that you noticed it? I'd try removing the loader and once on flat ground, see if anything on the loader or tractor is bent or broken. That piece is probably one of the most stout parts on the whole tractor. I'd be worried about the transmission case and loader arms. Definitely have to check mounting bolts and such.

I keep thinking about the scenario to break that section. Did you hit something immovable with that corner of the bucket? Back-dragging something and hit a rock? It wouldn't be from lifting heavy because I would think the tractor hydraulics would bypass WAY before a metal fatigue issue.

 

[mrmikey]

If you end up fixing it, take measurements of the hole location, V it out, weld it up making sure to fill the bolt holes as you'll never save them nor get a good weld trying to save them. Put a doubler on the inside wrapping around the edge using a piece of 4 x 4 x 3/8 angle with one leg cut down to wrap around the broken edge so you'd end up with a 4 x 1ｱ angle. Redrill the holes and weld it where the weld won't cause any undue stress.
The other leg, notch it out to fit over the gussett/brace on the inside. Be aware of where you end or start your welds so you don't have either a start or finish where there's be any concentrated stress.
What ever you do to one side, be it replace or repair, you're going to have to do to the other as well and reinforce it as well.
Get rid of those cheap ***** bolts and lockwashers, go with a gr10.9, locknuts and flats. Not saying the bolts were loose but if they were, it didn't help the situation at all.
Saying all that, here's hoping the dealer supports you.........Mike

 

[Slackdaddy]

When I bought my CK20S, I was under the impression the loader was like a loader on my Case 580E or a skid steer.
The dealer sat me down and explained in DETAIL what a CUT loader is, and what it is not.

It is not a piece of construction equipment such as a Skid or backhoe, as he said "It is not made to slam into the dirt pile like a skid, and will not be covered if it is"
It is made to pick up dirt, gravel, etc out of a loose pile and move, and drop.

 

[SManZ350]

It doesn't look like an old break. It looks like a recent and catastrophic fail. Do you remember what you were doing that day that you noticed it? I'd try removing the loader and once on flat ground, see if anything on the loader or tractor is bent or broken. That piece is probably one of the most stout parts on the whole tractor. I'd be worried about the transmission case and loader arms. Definitely have to check mounting bolts and such.

I keep thinking about the scenario to break that section. Did you hit something immovable with that corner of the bucket? Back-dragging something and hit a rock? It wouldn't be from lifting heavy because I would think the tractor hydraulics would bypass WAY before a metal fatigue issue.

Hi crashz thanks for the post. I do remember - I have been working on cutting a backstop into a slope to shoot into. I don't have a flat piece of land on the property. I have been digging down about 5' on the far end, tapering down to meet existing grade on the other end. I've been using the subsoiler to break up the dirt and then I've been using the loader to make stockpiles on the outside to form a berm. The day that it broke I had been working on moving a stockpile from the flat area to the berm around the outside.

Something like this;

I suspect it won't be covered under warranty. Ripping metal that thick is plenty hard to do, and I suspect the dealer is going to balk at replacing it. The dealer may even void your loader warranty for an "abuse" claim. I'd probably ask, but not be surprised if they say no, and be prepared to break out the checkbook for a replacement.

You'd need a very stout welder to even begin hitting something that thick. Probably have to bevel each part to nearly a 1/4 inch, pull it back together, weld it together, and then make successive passes to build up the metal. Bolt holes would be destroyed, but you could drill those out again. The danger in this approach (like you pointed out before) is the metal that hasn't broken is stressed/stretched, and more likely to break with continued use. I think you'd be better off in the long run with replacing it, and then go easier on your dirt work.

Hi justman,the response to my email and pics from the dealer I got today was that it didn't look good and that I had obviously been in a collision, and suggested the best thing to do would be to make an insurance claim Still, they will take a look at it and I'll bring the whole tractor in this week. The location of the break tells me the stress on the bracket is from loading/lifting. That doesn't mean it couldn't have been weakened by pushing, but that fracture could not have been caused by running into something.

You might claim its metal fatigue, because the damage occured right at the two mounting bolt holes, which potentially weaken the metal at that point. I would prepare a spreadsheet of past work history for you loader. Kioti may ask dealer to take dozens of photos of the entire tractor, looking for evidence of historical abuse. Kioti knows their tractors and may indeed fix under warranty, or go 50% cost with you on the repairs.

I would not do any welding on the part yet. First see if you can get it replaced under warranty, if not, just order a new replacement part from MIE at your own cost. Weld the old part, and keep it as a backup.

I think thats petty sound advice. If I can't get it covered under warranty I will order and replace the part myself. No matter which way I go, I will have my friend help me add a gusset to the left side bracket.