Bronze Brazing Nuts to Plaque

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks for the replies - some good ideas. I suggested silver solder the first time and he said that he would prefer I don't use solder ??? he's an artist..... I should have shown the front which is 3 dimensional not a simple plaque so it is to thin to drill and tap in many places. I have seen other stuff he does with bosses and/or drilled and tapped holes. He said he mounts these simple plaques all different ways and sometimes needs them flat on the bottom. I like the carbon sticks idea it will save me some cleaning with the bottom tap.

I only work on his crude stuff - thank goodness.

gg

 

[WranglerX]

Thanks for the replies - some good ideas. I suggested silver solder the first time and he said that he would prefer I don't use solder ??? he's an artist..... I should have shown the front which is 3 dimensional not a simple plaque so it is to thin to drill and tap in many places. I have seen other stuff he does with bosses and/or drilled and tapped holes. He said he mounts these simple plaques all different ways and sometimes needs them flat on the bottom. I like the carbon sticks idea it will save me some cleaning with the bottom tap.

I only work on his crude stuff - thank goodness.


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gg

Seems to me he does not understand silver solder is not just like plain old lead/acid solder...

Love this stuff....

Amazon.com

 

[jaxs]

If I understand the finished piece ,how bout brazing a flat head brass screw head on instead of the nut? Put molding clay on wood where screw holds need to be then press plaque with screws into clay to mark precise spot to drill holes then counter sink holes. Wood in contact with plaque will need only slight recess and bottom of wood will need recess for nut. Any melted filler drawn up into threads wouldn't go high enough to interfere when nut is screwed on from other side of wood base. As a bonus brass fasteners look better than steel.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Beautiful work by the artist. It seems to me if it's going to be a permanent bond of bronze to wood epoxy would be the best choice. If he has bronze and wood scraps you could try different ones, once hardened give them a strength test.
From what I looked up original Gorilla Glue is very good and I've used a lot recently metal to wood. The only problem with it I've found is it swells like Great Stuff and has to be used sparingly.
I'm not sure why base would need to be screwed to bronze. If necessary again epoxy bronze to bolt or nut? There's no heat that way.

 

[Gordon Gould]

You guys are right in what you are saying but I can't see any reason to argue with a strong minded neighbor. It can lead to hard feelings for no reason. I'm doing him a favor and it is his work. Out of respect I do it the way he wants.

gg

 

[jaxs]

You guys are right in what you are saying but I can't see any reason to argue with a strong minded neighbor. It can lead to hard feelings for no reason. I'm doing him a favor and it is his work. Out of respect I do it the way he wants.

gg

Well gosh if that's the way you feel maybe you should stop "thinking there must be a better way and looking for suggestions".

 

[Gordon Gould]

I guess I didn't word it very well but I thought the carbon sticks was a great suggestion.

gg

 

[UncleW]

I had to braze on 1/2” captive nuts to 2 1/2” square steel tubing to make a tractor tool bar. I put anti-seize on a steel bolt and (like I understand what you’re doing), left it proud of the nut to locate it in the hole. As soon as I had it tacked in place, I backed it out till it was about 2 threads in. Kept flux out of the threads but was easy to break loose. Bottoming tap started easily and cleaned any bronze & flux out of the threads. I did mine with bare rod and paste flux but you can get the same effect by sanding some of the flux off a coated rod. Really don’t need a lot of flux on clean metal