brush clearing

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Well, I'm not much ahead of you there. I have a toothbar but don't have it installed yet. Here's <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=off&Number=159218&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=> why</A>.

 

[cstocks]

Oh, by the way, Gary. The soil is sandy down past about a foot there in south Ark. where I was clearing the fence row. Then it gets into clay. You'd be surprised how ornery those little trees can be to dig up even in sandy soil.

I use the same technique on my three acres here in southeast Tx. where I live and have about the same success in the "gumbo" soil we have here. I am sure a toothbar would make a huge difference but I seem to do okay if I have a little patience.

 

[cstocks]

There's nothing worse than getting a new toy and not being able to play with it immediately!

Congrats on the new toothbar and deepest sympathy for the delay in getting to try it out!

 

[ns_in_tex]

Chris,
If you have a lot of fence rows to clean, you might want to think about a tool I learned about on tbn & built myself one. I think it is the best thing since sliced bread.
I posted pictures of it along with what it can do.
I will try to make my first link to it.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=133000&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post133000>Cleaning the fence is fun now</A>

Do you have a quick attach for your fel? If not, you would want one, if you get more implements for it.

 

[cstocks]

Whoa! I needed this attachment a year ago! I do not have a quick tach for my FEL yet but plan to get one in the near future. Unfortunately, I am not talented enough or equipped to make a tool like that. Man, oh man. I can see where it would make short work of a grown up fence row! I won't be able to clear any more fence rows without thinking about how good it would be to have a tree grabber like the one you made.

 

[John_Mc]

ns_in_tex -

I have a request for you from those of us with limited computer screen size:

When you post a link that is a mile long, use the [ url=mylink]title[ /url] format. Where mylink is the URL you are pointing to, and title is any name you give it. (I put in a couple of extra spaces in my example after the "[" to keep it from being interpreted as a link.) This will display something short, only as long as the title, rather than an extremely wide link. Since links won't word-wrap, it widens the whole post (and all the other posts in the thread) to match your link, forcing those of us with small screens to do a lot of left & right scrolling. This can make the posts tough to read. If you have a minute, you can go back and edit your post to make this change.

Don't mean to sound preachy. It's nice that you take the time to put in a link in the first place.

John Mc

 

[normde2001]

John, I only have a 14" (13 1/2" viewable) screen and that long link worked fine on my screen with "maximize" enabled. It took 4 lines of text, but was all viewable at one time.

 

[Harv]

Since the subject of long urls has popped up here, I'll take the opportunity to say a few words. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

Don't worry, Neal, your link was mostly done right -- not at all bad for a first try.

You used the correct ... tag, but then stuck the whole url into the "visible" part. That's where you can put any text you like, hopefully something that will make sense and make it readable. In this case, the title of the thread would have been a good choice.

Also, it looks like you found the url by means of a search, which has some interesting side effects. You may have noticed that when you use the search feature on TBN, the messages you find will have the search words highlighted (bold) when you view them. That information gets incorporated into the url and is probably not what you want the other readers to see. In that case, you might want to sneak up on the url from a corresponding reply or the threaded list of messages that go with it. That will give you a "pure" url, suitable for posting in another message.

Hmmm... /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif I may be confusing more than helping, but I thought I'd give it a try.

BTW -- if you see long urls, oversized picts, or anything that stretches a message beyond the normal width you are used to seeing, you can flag down a moderator by clicking on the icon, and it will be given a cosmetic makeover.

 

[John_Mc]

<font color=blue>that long link worked fine on my screen with "maximize" enabled. It took 4 lines of text, but was all viewable at one time</font color=blue>

How did you get the link to wrap at the end of a line? On my screen that four lines of text (which has since been shortened, by the way) was all on one line, the entire post (and all the other posts) ended up four screens wide.

John Mc

 

[Hawkflyer]

Your tree puller looks real good. I am making one of these as well. There are a number of companies that also make "tree Shears" for either FEL mounting or TPH mount. These things are amazing but really very heavy for a compact. I have added a grapple to my FEL this year and in combo with the tooth bar this thing has converted my B2410 into the worst enemy of multaflora rose, greenbriar, trees up to 3", grapevines, suckle vines and anything else that might want to popluate a fence line. You simply approach the victim, raise the bucket all the way, roll the bucket so it faces the ground, pull forward a little, lower the bucket as far down as it will go, close the grapple, roll the bucket back, and push forward with the machine. This technique rips out huge chunks of brush at a time. In fact, usually you wind up carrying so much stuff in one load that you can't see where you are going.For stiffer trees, say 2-4 inches, you have to swing the FEL in from the side as you push down with the bucket to bend them over. You do this by getting the bucket beside the tree as high as you can reach, then turning the tractor hard over as you pull forward and push down. Once the tree is in a position where you can grab it with the grapple, you latch on and roll the bucket back. Sometimes the tree can be pulled at that point with just the FEL. If not, move the tractor back and forth while lifting. If it does not pull out it will usually break off at the point where the edge of the bucket is bending the trunk.After you clear the ares in this way, go back over it with a Brush hog, kick back with a cool one and watch the grass come back.Good luck.