brush tree cutter

[have_blue]

thats what i'm talking about Taylortractornut.
clearing old fences and clearing for cross fencing is more than I want to use my sthil brushcutter or chain saw on 160 acres. Anymore details you can give me?

Removing a section from the rear of a bush hog weakens it, so you'll have to be thinking about reinforcing the top and sides of the deck.

It's amazing how inefficient bush hogs are. Most of the tractor's power is used to grind and re-grind the brush. Direct contact with sharpened and relieved blade edges is far more efficient, and if designed well, would cut 6" trees like butter. You could even cut them flush with the ground.

If you could find a big old rusty saw blade junked by a mill, it would work great. It wouldn't have to be in good shape. Cross cutting is not even work for a 40hp tractor and saw blade.

 

[The Haymaker]

Knowing this probably isn't what you're looking for, but several years ago there was a local guy marketing a blade for skidsteers. It was nothing more than a 4 or 5 foot long triangle mounted to the front of the skid', flat to the ground. The edges of the triangle had a blade. You just drove up to the tree applying pressure and the cutting edge sheared the tree off.

No moving parts!

I'd install some sort of bar 3 or 4 feet above the cutting edge to lean trees outward and prevent falling on the tractor, like what the skidsteer mounted hammermills use.

For alders and other smaller stuff, I've had excellent luck pushing back tree lines I've had excellent luck using my forks. Put them withing a few inches of each other and puching them a few inches under the soil. Go in and under the root ball at a slight down angle, then once you know you're under it continue driving in and tilt the forks up. Once 1/2 way, roll forks forward, lift, and drive forward slowly all in one motion. This way you aren't lifting, just using leverage to roll the roots out of the ground. Pop! I've used this on Alders, locus, and an 8" round cherry.

 

[dirt clod]

Knowing this probably isn't what you're looking for, but several years ago there was a local guy marketing a blade for skidsteers. It was nothing more than a 4 or 5 foot long triangle mounted to the front of the skid', flat to the ground. The edges of the triangle had a blade. You just drove up to the tree applying pressure and the cutting edge sheared the tree off.

No moving parts!

I'd install some sort of bar 3 or 4 feet above the cutting edge to lean trees outward and prevent falling on the tractor, like what the skidsteer mounted hammermills use.

For alders and other smaller stuff, I've had excellent luck pushing back tree lines I've had excellent luck using my forks. Put them withing a few inches of each other and puching them a few inches under the soil. Go in and under the root ball at a slight down angle, then once you know you're under it continue driving in and tilt the forks up. Once 1/2 way, roll forks forward, lift, and drive forward slowly all in one motion. This way you aren't lifting, just using leverage to roll the roots out of the ground. Pop! I've used this on Alders, locus, and an 8" round cherry.

I've seen those. I have a contract with CRP through there EQUIP program. Bottom line they are paying for improvements to my land and as such I have to follow there rules. One of which is I have to leave stumps/roots, but can cut any tree I wish to do.

 

[whistlepig]

Wow, mean set of specs on this beast!

These work very well. I have seen them used. Takes a heck of a tractor to handle one.

 

[The Haymaker]

I've seen those. I have a contract with CRP through there EQUIP program. Bottom line they are paying for improvements to my land and as such I have to follow there rules. One of which is I have to leave stumps/roots, but can cut any tree I wish to do.

Off topic, but why must the stumps stay if it is your turf?

 

[dirt clod]

It is a cost share program to conserve natural resources. I have a lot of wetland and spring fed creek. There basic goal is to prevent soil erosion into water. The root stock is what prevents erosion. Frankly If I was not in this contract I would still want to do as such. Its way more work/expense to fix erosion than to prevent. They are cost sharing 90% of what they say should cost to pay someone to complete project. By doing myself there reimbursement should pay for my costs.

 

[LBrown59]

why must the stumps stay if it is your turf?

I must admit the answer to your question has me stumped

 

[rj's barn]

What I did when I was young and brave was take a piece of 1/2 inch plate and cut a giant square that is close to the inner diameter of the brush hog, cut holes as close to the center as you can get em to keep it sorta balanced. Mount that to the disk on the brush hog and be extremely careful. I cut a divot on the right side rear of the cutter next to the tail wheel to give the sapling a place to hit the "blade". I never used any kind of push bar aparatus because I was young, brave, and indestructible. If I were you I'd rig up some kind of push bar to make the tree fall away from you. I was taking down some good size saplings with my old 9n with that rig bolted to the bottom of a 6ft cyclone rotary cutter. You probably have a rig with a lower reverse gear so you wont have to ram the tree 5 or 6 times to get it to fall.