Just a couple of thought/comments (what, me?!).
Our 1969 house has 2x8 fir joists. The floor has some squeaks. It would have been nailed (and I hope most of the nails are actually in the joists). The addition we put on a couple of years ago are 9 1/2" TJI over the LVL (laminated) headers (where needed). The new stuff is glued, then nailed. We did the finish work on most of the house (save the bathroom) so I had plenty of time to screw the floor down. I used (ok, bought -- it was cheap enough, but rented would have been just fine) a long shaft strip-screw (deck/drywall) gun. Once I figured out how to do use it (pull the trigger, walk the chalk line and push down on the floor, don't stop the motor until the strip is empty), I bet it only took 30-40 minutes to do each room. I figured it was cheap insurance for joist movement & squeaky floors. It certainly is out of view compared to any other solution for 'after the flooring is in and you get squeaks' (or worse with a floating floor and tile weight). You have solid joists and live where the humidity changes a lot, just something to consider.
We sprayed open cell foam in our addition and any open walls of the existing floor. About the same cost R value wise as closed cell (which has a higher R value per thickness than open cell). I am not sure how effective it was price wise, versus cellulose (I thought it was expensive). An interesting detail is that they spray under the roof sheathing & trusses (which really works well in the shallow top plate to truss bottom area). That makes the entire house conditioned space (heat/cool). It means that the can lights don't matter, leak wise (too bad we already put in sealed & insulation contact cans -- could have saved a few bucks). It will also mean easy circuit/light/switch moves/additions. Even though I was sure I had spent more than enough time thinking about where switches,lights, and comm/internet cables should go (I used cat5 cables for both -- usually ran 2 lines to every spot I had plans for one or the other), there are still a couple that are not in the right spot, or I need somewhere else.
I put LED strip lights in the old hallway. Built a coved (french curve profile) piece of moulding up and rabbited a groove in the back, had the drywaller mold it into the wall. Worked better than I expected. One thing with LED lighting: confirm the light 'temperature' is the color you want. Same deal as choosing fluorescent lighting. Another solution would be to use crown moulding and just lower it an 1-3 inches (some use rope lighting here). All I needed was a laptop PC power supply (~$10). I had the electrician put in an outlet in the attic switched by the old 2 way switches, and poked the wires through the wall from the trough (DC to the power supply). Works good, with indirect lighting and I don't stare into the light when using the stairs, or have a light blocked by someone else walking above the stairs (no shadowing). The LED strips are segmented so they can be cut into sections and wired together (for example, I had 3 sides of the hallway to run the lighting in, I just cut them in 3, connected them with jumpers). Likewise, it can be cut for short runs or jumpered together for longer runs. Came on a super 8 film sized reel. ~$15 each reel ($/ft I think) 2 years ago (Amazon). Great way to do underneath cabinets too. Came backed with 3M double sided tape.
Our architect recommended Panasonic bath fans. I researched them, then tried to find something else that was as good. At the time, I couldn't find any, noise wise (they use 'sons' in the fan industry). The options were almost endless: motion detectors, low speed always on (adjustable speed -- used when a house/building needs some fresh air exchange), timed, night light (basically a C7 bulb), fluorescent U bulb (which they don't tell you is the same as all the other U bulbs -- I wanted a yellower temperature bulb). Anyhow, they are pricey, but what makes them quiet (besides a good fan/motor design) is that they use a DC motor and controller that slowly ramps the fan speed up. It works. I added in fan timers for the common bathroom/powder rooms. Lowes Depot sell different brands. Turned out my local Lowes stocked the uncommon color of almond (yes, there are two colors of almond), so I went with a different color to make the LED auto night light switch match in one room (found this out when I was buying something at an electrical supply house). I think Depot now carries the combination I wanted (I was picky).
Digital Timer, RT1W | by Legrand Works by hitting the large button, uses the last timing length selection (or just select a different timing length button and it comes on) .
Dimmable LED Nightlight Combination with Switch - 7738 Offered plenty of ways to have a lighted switch. Light almond is (I think) the common almond.
Just thoughts. My wife commented that the fart fans may be too quiet and visitors may be inclined to turn the water on to cover up their sounds. The water cop (me) will have to inform them that aint cool.
Oh, one thing we found was that there are a number of companies that make pretty cool fan/return air/supply air vent covers for more prominent areas of the house (Lowes Depot only carry the fairly generic). And not all of them are that much money (in the grand scheme of things). Selections of wood, metal, old style stamped, etc.
Just helping you spend money!
