bumper pull 24 ft.

[IllMarty1]

Here is one I found that is a 20' w/4' dovetail with fold flat ramps. The link shows a GN but you can get it as BP also.
7 Ton Gooseneck & Pintle Trailer, Johnson Trailer, Colfax Wisconsin

If you are going that big, get the 2 x 7000lb axles.

 

[unreconstructed]

Really liked the look of that Road Warrior.

GN probably better, but seems my pickup bed is always full of whatever--tools, building material, tools, trash, herbicide whatever. And probably a little foolishly, I like a plastic bed liner which I have and can't have that with the 5th wheel. So hoping to stay with a BP if possible. May be cheaper to buy two rear blades and leave one at each place.

 

[Crash101]

A potential problem with a long bumper pull is hitch weight. Many manufacturers use the 60%/40% rule when placing the axle centerline. this works great with smaller dual axle car haulers, but it tends to place too much weight on the front of longer heavier trailers. Especially when we have to load the tractor far forward so that long bush hog will clear the rear ramps. Anything 20 foot or longer, I would want those axles moved forward a little (8 or 9 inches?). This helps prevent overloading the hitching parts, and still provide a good front heavy balance to prevent sway. Even our 3/4 and 1 ton trucks are often originally equipped with 10K/1K hitching components. A tractor on a long trailer can easily produce a couple times that 1,000 pounds limit. Not a safe configuration at all.

 

[wkpoor]

A potential problem with a long bumper pull is hitch weight. Many manufacturers use the 60%/40% rule when placing the axle centerline. this works great with smaller dual axle car haulers, but it tends to place too much weight on the front of longer heavier trailers. Especially when we have to load the tractor far forward so that long bush hog will clear the rear ramps. Anything 20 foot or longer, I would want those axles moved forward a little (8 or 9 inches?). This helps prevent overloading the hitching parts, and still provide a good front heavy balance to prevent sway. Even our 3/4 and 1 ton trucks are often originally equipped with 10K/1K hitching components. A tractor on a long trailer can easily produce a couple times that 1,000 pounds limit. Not a safe configuration at all.

You are right Crash. So far all my loads have been short enough to keep the tongue load just right. With 20' on the flat I could easily roll a vehicle far enough forward to put over 2000lbs on the hitch. I can see some items left back on the dove to compensate. Right now if I pull a car on and leave the back tire at the back of the flat its just right. Haven't backed anything on yet to see how that looks. The 10% tongue weight recommended doesn't quite work when the loads are 10K or better and it appears its not necessary on the longer trailers either. If I maintain about 500-700lbs on my new trailer that seems perfect regardless of whats on the axles.

 

[coobie]

I paid $3,300 for it brand new in March. It is my understanding that most trailer manufacturers have had several price increases due to steel prices and fuel for shipping. You should still be able to get one for less than under $4,000 and in that style, you could also step up to a 24ft. I love the fold up ramps.

I also bought a 20ft.(bumper pull) PJ trailer back in march for $3,300 and love it.The guy I bought it from told me there was going to be a 5% increase in april.coobie

 

[unreconstructed]

Picked up my 5325 yesterday. I know I was approaching max load, but don't intend to trailer this tractor much. At any rate, it worked out really well. My F350 stayed about level with a little noticable push at the hitch. Was steady on the road and trailer did not whip.
The Bush Hog rear blade I looked at adds 10 feet. Not sure if even a 24 footer would do it. I am thinking GN for sure if I upgrade. Don't think I want to go to the expense to try and trailer this entire rig set up.

thanks for all of your comments.