Burned up pump on borrowed trailer - please help!

[jeffster]

I second the battery issue. I just replaced the battery in my dump trailer. I hadn't used it in a couple of weeks, and when I went out to lift it, it just clicked. Battery is only 2 years old or so. Plugged it in (it has an onboard charger) and still not go. Put in on my standalone charger and put it in jump start mode and it still just clicked. I was worried the pump was fried. Put in a new battery and works like a champ.

 

[zman007007]

As far as removing the motor without losing fluid, yes you can do it. In the pic you showed, the post you showed in the red square, on the end that metal bracket attaches to, you should find 2 bolts that go all way thru the motor. Remove the positive cable from the battery 1st. then remove the wires from the solenoid. Be sure to mark your wires so you will know where they go back. Remove all wires and cables before removing the 2 bolts. It is a good idea also to make a mark on the motor and pump cover before removing bolts, because it has to be lined back up. zman

 

[zman007007]

I hope you have this thing blocked up very good so it doesnt have a chance of falling on you. zman think safety first.

 

[zman007007]

I can tell you an easy way to see if the motor is fried or not before you pull it if needed, because if you shorted the solenoid out, a great battery still wont make it work. Let me know. zman

 

[Bruegge]

Thanks for the info guys. I have to work tomorrow, so I can't get to it until tomorrow night. I'll keep my fingers crossed and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again.
Ray

 

[Bruegge]

I can tell you an easy way to see if the motor is fried or not before you pull it if needed, because if you shorted the solenoid out, a great battery still wont make it work. Let me know. zman

Zman, I'm going to look at it soon. I think the solenoid is good since the test light works on the outgoing side. How do I test the motor without removing it?

 

[RobertN]

Do you have a volt/ohm meter and know how to use the ohm function?

If you completely disconnect the motor, you can measure resistance across the two leads going to it. Should measure some small resistance; the windings in the motor are really just a long long long wire. It should have a few ohms of resistance. If it is 0, then there is a short; if it measures nothing at all, the circuit is open; possibly a break in the wire internally.

Zman, I'm going to look at it soon. I think the solenoid is good since the test light works on the outgoing side. How do I test the motor without removing it?

 

[Ryan03]

Zman, I'm going to look at it soon. I think the solenoid is good since the test light works on the outgoing side. How do I test the motor without removing it?

A good pair of jumper cables, and a good 12 volt automotive battery. Hook the jumper cables up to the battery, then hook the negative to the body of the motor, sometimes a pair of non insulated needle nose vise grips clamped to the snout of the motor make a much easier place to hook up the ground clamp. Now take the positive cable and touch the clamp on the cable to the positive stud on the motor, being careful not to touch the body of the motor, just the stud. You may see some sparks, but if the motor is any good, it should activate.

A 12 volt jumper box also will work for this. A good elec multi meter is a better way, but I have used this method many times in a pinch or at a swap meet, and it has never failed me.

 

[Bruegge]

Thanks guys,
Here's what went down... I ran the ohm meter like zman recommended and the first reading had some resistance (hopeful). The next several readings read infinity (boo!). So I took the motor apart. It had a ton of fine copper colored dust packed in it. After a can of electrical cleaner it looked pretty good. Slapped it back together and it worked! Wired the ground to the screws that hold the solenoid (thanks again zman) and we're off.

Thanks for all the help - I don't think I would have had the courage to take it apart without you.

Ray