Bush hog blade sharpener device.

[Slamfire]

I just tip the cutter up on the end that is closest to the tractor. It is necessary to pull the end of the pto shaft out of the stub though. I set it down next to a sheet of plywood, tilted just slightly forward, and pull it up on the 3 point hitch frame with a 6' loggin' chain. Thread it through the uprights were the tip link hooks up, and hook it to the tail wheel. A little tug with the tractor and it comes right up. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[TonyV]

Thanks for some great advice Bill. I used my FEL today to set my 5' bush hog on its side and sharpened the blades using a 4 1/2 inch grinder. What an easy job that turned out to be. I knew the blades needed sharpening after spending 2 days out in a heavily overgrown field with it. Thanks again. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

...Tony

 

[poncho99]

I have an old bush hog that I tried too use for the first time and it just vibrated like crazy. I looked underneath to find that the 2 blades which are held in by 1 bolt each are loose. Are they supposed to be loose? I don't think they have been sharpened in 15 year as the cutting edge is round. Any help would be extreamly appreciated /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[BB_TX]

When you say loose, if you mean that they swivel on the bolt that is correct. Actually the bolt should be tight, but the blade allowed to swivel. They swivel so that if you hit a stump, large rock, or other heavy object, the blade will swing back instead of destroying itself or the cutter. Sometimes they will "freeze" up over time with rust, twine, grass, etc. and need to be cleaned up and freed up. But the bolt should not be worn to the point of possibly coming loose or breaking.
Is your gearbox tight? If so, you may have to remove the blades and check them for bends or compare them to see that they are close to each other in weight.

 

[John_Mc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What machinery do you use to get it up on one side for cleaning and maintenance? )</font>

Lift up my 3 pt hitch all the way, then shorten my toplink (since I have a hydraulic top link, this takes all of a second or two). Prop a 4x4 or log underneath as a safety in case the hydraulics leak down, then have at it.

BTW... it's best not to sharpen them to a sharp edge, unless you know you're mowing a "clean" area... just grass or weeds, no rocks or stumps. A knife-edge makes a good cut for a while, but is more prone to chipping when mowing in rough conditions.

John Mc

 

[Phred]

Mine weighs more than 1000 lbs.
I tried several approaches, including turning it over with a chain and my loader.
I did not like any of the ways I tried out.....
So what I found was simply leave it mounted on the tractor with the 3-point raised all the way up. Disconnect the pto and cutoff the tractor. Place four jack stand underneath each corner.

You can now get up under on a crawler and change the blades easily. Almost zero risk. If the tractor 3-point fails it would take all four stands to fail for you to get hurt.

An impact wrench is worth every penny for this task.