Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I?

   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I? #21  
That is a very nice utility tractor at a very good price...
Those Farmtrac's were good tractors and it is a shame that they went under...
 
   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I? #22  
The 201 ci Ford diesel in the 665 has a 4.40 X 4.40 bore/stroke. Its a good size 3 cylinder with lots of bottom end grunt.
 
   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I?
  • Thread Starter
#23  
I was impressed by the 3 cylinder. I was a little worried thinking I'd need at least 60 PTO hp for that 8' cutter. As long as I don't let the weeds get shoulder length, that 52 PTO hp 3 cylinder should be fine. It had power to spare this weekend. Lots of torque.
 
   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Little update on my Farmtrac. This is mainly for my records and for anyone else who might face similar problems.

Last time I bushhogged with the farmtrac I put 14 hours on the machine...she ran good. I filled her up lipping full prior to parking it in the barn. I'd been over a couple of times in the weeks following just to start it and had been noticing diesel dripping from the block and really all over the engine. Looked kinda like it was sloshing out of the fuel cap and just figured I'd filled it too full. One day while dad was over he cranked it and noticed it was really pouring diesel off the block. He popped the hood and noticed a mist of atomized fuel spraying everwhere. Fuel injector line #2 had a crack on the underside of the bend just as it goes into the injector. I was bummed, but not exactly a major problem. I called IPT and ordered a new line. Unfortunately, shipping was a dollar more than the line....the line being $17. Line arrived about 3 days later. Put it on and fixed the fuel leak!
 
   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I?
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Fuel Issues

I put about 15 hours on the tractor this weekend. Found a few more gremlins in the machine. I think my dad, brother and myself are beginning to be good farmtrac mechanics. :)

This past week I'd planned to take off Wed, Thur, Fri and Sat from work to help dad and brother do some dirt work (box blading) on some land we've been clearing. Had planned to go get a brand spankin' new MT800 box blade in Boaz at Lowery Brothers on Wed, unload and be ready to work the farmtrac the rest of the weekend. Dad had gone over Tuesday to use the farmtrac while hooked to the bushhog to cut a spot for my brother to park his gooseneck and unload his Kubota. Late Tuesday I get a call from dad saying the farmtrac had quit on him after a few rounds of bushogging. Now dad had been ribbing me a little about the farmtrac prior to this and he's been known to kid, but this time I knew he was serious. My heart sank. Anyway, he said it sounded and acted like a fuel starvation issue - about the only thing it could be with a diesel. He primed and primed and got it started and headed straight for the barn with it. Didn't know if was a one time thing or not...so plans were still on.

Wednesday we go buy a 8' heavy duty box blade at Lowery. The only one they have. Stopped in at Snead Ag Equipment and kicked some tracks on some machines. Got the box back to the farm after lunch and we unloaded it with our 175C. The farmtrac started right up! We unhooked the bush hog, hooked up the box and started doing a little box work on a small ditch by the barn. After about 15-20 minutes, the farmtrac quits again and won't start. We hooked it up to the 175C and drug the farmtrack up to the barn. We start trying to diagnose. We removed the fuel line just past the primer plunger. No fuel is coming out. We removed the fuel line up to the primer and fuel is running out at a fair rate. Looked like the primer was suspect. We disect the little Bosch primer and notice it looks good. Has a pretty strong spring inside it so the pump has to suck fuel at a pretty strong rate to get fuel to the pump. I didn't know that.

We reattached and started thinking maybe the Wix filters at 15micron were too restrictive. We took off the primary and it was extremely dirty. We went so far as to cut it into and it was pretty dirty, but not enough we thought to be restricting fuel. Remember it's just been replaced about 15 hours ago. Looked like rust in the tank. We removed the shut-off valve thinking their may be a screen there that was stopped up. No screen in this one. With flash light we saw the tank was in good shape, just a little rust in the bottom at the crease. We're wondering if someone removed a screen in the past?? So we reassemble everything and go buy new filters hoping but not confident that's the problem. The Massey Fergusson place actually had the Bosch primary filter (F002 part number). It was only $18. I got an Agco secondary even though I think the Wix was fine.

Came back, installed new filters, primed and she cranked up. Used it for a little while and it went dead again!! With a sense of dread, at this point we're thinking it's got to be in the pump. We started looking at the connectors to the front solenoid. The front one looks like it opens depending upon the intake temperature...at least that's where the wire goes to. It opened and closed intermittently when it was warm, but the tractor would run whether it was connected or not. The second solenoid was for fuel shut-off. We could remove it while running and the engine would act like it was going dead. We turned the tractor off and left the key on. The solenoid appeared to be working fine as we could hear it click anytime it came in contact. So we put it back on. With it fully seated on the terminal I wiggled it and heard it click!! I was thinking we have a bad connection! The female connector was snug going on, but once fully on it was slightly loose. Also the terminals had a bit of residual fuel on them from the cracked line. We cleaned up the connector and tightened the female terminal and snugged it on the fuel shut-off terminal and it fixed it! Never had another problem with it going dead the rest of the weekend. I was so thankful it wasn't in the pump.
 
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   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Electrical

Back when we fixed the fuel gauge we noticed that a rat must have gotten up between the hood and the tank and chewed into the wiring harness. The previous owner had a bottle of rat poison tie wrapped up by the wires. He had fixed the wiring and it looked like it had all been retaped. So fast forward to this weekend. After all the cranking and restarting, we noticed the starter was dragging and slow to turn the motor over. The tractor had brand new battery from the dealer in it and I had fully charged it just before we brought the tractor over so we didn't think it was the battery. Unfortunately, we didn't have a volt meter on us. We jumped it off and it cranked fine so we thought maybe it was the battery or the alternator wasn't charging. We pulled the little terminal box and noticed there was a fuse for "Horn/Charging". Things started adding up. The horn never has worked but I didn't bother trying to fix it. In the middle of the field we pulled the fuse out and sure enough it was blown. Luckily, there was a spare 10 and 15 amp fuse in the fuse box. We popped in the new 10 amp fuse and the horn started working! The Amp light on the dash had never worked and I didn't really know what to expect out of it. But it started working after the tractor was shut down or the key was on. The battery recharged after the day of working. We figured when the rats had been up in it, a wire must have shorted. The owner probably had a dead battery soon after or traded before then and the dealer then put a new battery in it still with a blown fuse. The whole time I've been using it hasn't been charging. Again, nothing too major, but man this tractor definitely has a personality. I guess anytime you buy used, you can expect to spend a year working out the bugs.

farmtrac.jpg
 
   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I? #27  
Sounds like you are getting things under control. When I buy from ITP I try to buy enough for their free shipping at $150. If need be I buy filters and stuff. IIFC there may have been a issue with the wires near the rib of the tank chaffing. I have a 555 and have been in the rear end twice due to pinion bolts backing out. When you change the hydro oil I would remove the inspection cover and check them out.
 
   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I? #28  
friends starter just went out, couldn't find the parts to rebuild it so had to buy new.
 
   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I?
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Sounds like you are getting things under control. When I buy from ITP I try to buy enough for their free shipping at $150. If need be I buy filters and stuff. IIFC there may have been a issue with the wires near the rib of the tank chaffing. I have a 555 and have been in the rear end twice due to pinion bolts backing out. When you change the hydro oil I would remove the inspection cover and check them out.

We're getting there. I noticed that free shipping too as I was pricing the primer plunger the other night from IPT's website. The little plunger was $123! Glad I didn't have to order one. Thanks for the tip on the pinion bolts. I just changed out the hydro oil after I bought it. Anything I should be listening or feeling for if they should start to back out?

friends starter just went out, couldn't find the parts to rebuild it so had to buy new.

Ouch. I'm sure that wasn't cheap. Hopefully, that will be a ways off if that fails.

BTW, for anyone who's looking for paint to match the tractor. Ford automotive engine blue paint is spot on. I picked up some more suitcase weights from a vendor at a tractor show. The same show was selling rattle paint cans for $1/can from some automotive shop that had gone out of business and donated their paint to the booster club putting on the show. I picked up two cans of ford engine blue mainly cause it was cheap. But low and behold it was spot on color match not to mention it's rated for 500 degrees. :)
 
   / Buying a Farmtrac 665DTC...should I? #30  
You get nothing until they back out fall in your 4x4 case and tear up the gears. It also lets the carrier pull out rip the c clip from the groove destroying the groove and tearing up the pinion bearing. It happened once and I bought a new gear set for $700 and fixed it and put Loc tite on new bolts and thought I was done. Did the same exact thing the next year. This time I had to buy a new 4x4 case and gears and could not spend the money on the ruined pinion so I welded the bearing on the pinion and welded a small piece of stock between the bolt heads so they CAN'T back out. I would drain a little oil and pull the round cover on the side to check them out.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa72/stelmashuck/DSCN1369.jpg
 
 
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