Buying a MF 135

   / Buying a MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I'm not Bob but the gears in these tractors are square cut gears and are non synchronized. Meaning you have to stop to shift or you grind the gears. If it is worn or you know the tractor well you can shift on the move. In your case shift while stopped.

Then why is it supposed to stall if I start from a dead stop???
 
   / Buying a MF 135 #12  
murphy1244 said:
Then why is it supposed to stall if I start from a dead stop???

Only if you let it up fast at a idle. If you were taking off for use you would easy out the clutch and give it some throttel. The stall was for testing the clutch.
 
   / Buying a MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Only if you let it up fast at a idle. If you were taking off for use you would easy out the clutch and give it some throttel. The stall was for testing the clutch.

Ahhhhh Thanks
 
   / Buying a MF 135 #15  
Well I have a possible deal on a 135 Diesel, power steering 2 stage clutch and 5000 hours for 2575.00. Can be seen a tractor house at sterling Farm. What do you guys think and what should I check on it before purchase. Does need a battery.

I bought my 1964 MF135 diesel Deluxe with Multipower for $3600 in May06 with 4600 hours showing.

The Deluxe model has 5 gauges (oil pressure, water temp, ammeter, fuel level and tach/hour meter). The Special model has 2 gauges (oil pressure, water temp).

Multipower uses a 2-range hydraulically operated clutch to change from the standard 6F/2R tranny gears to 12F/4R. There's a lever on the lower right side of the dashboard. Lever down is the MP LOW range; lever up is the MP HIGH range. If the MP stops working, you will only have the LOW range.

Check the usual stuff (fluid leaks, funny colored smoke that persists when the engine is running, tranny works in all gears, pto works properly--especially the 2-stage clutch).

There are two weep holes on the bottom of the clutch bell housing. There should be loose fitting cotter pins in these holes but sometimes they're missing and the holes are clogged. Use a piece of wire or a small twist drill to ream out these holes and look for oil leakage. A few drops is normal. More leakage may mean that the rear crankshaft seal is bad or that there's leakage from the transmission into the clutch area. If so, you'll probably have to split the tractor to fix it.

Check the power steering performance if there's a PS pump. It's not true power steering, just "power assisted" steering. If it's hard to steer, then that PS system may need to be fixed.

Good luck.
 
 
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