If you are going to do much ground engaging work (disc, plow, cultivator, no-till planter, etc), I would go with the powerreverser (gear) trans, which should also nock a couple grand off your cost. The only way I would consider R4 tires is if you need to use it on the lawn. They will just about cut in half the ammount of traction force that tractor can develop compared to R1's which is a big deal for ground engaging foodplot work, and stuff like dragging logs out of the woods. If you feel you must have R4 tires then stick with a tiller for tillage and a blower for snow-removal as these implements have minimal traction requirements. They say R4's have better puncture resistance for woods work, but that dont make up for an absence of traction often needed to skid heavy logs. I use my tractor in the woods a lot and have puntured the fronts a few times, but that is a 2 minute repair since they are tubeless. Luckily, I have never punctured a rear. I have had a 4120/powerreverser/R1's for 5 years and it has performed beyond my expectations. I used to get stuck an average of 2-3 times a season when all I had were 2wd tractors and now I have not been stuck in 5 years. Also, my spring planting is done an average of one month earlier than it used to be. The 4wd/R1's lets me push mountains of snow without needing tire chains which are tough on blacktop driveways. If you plan on doing a lot of lawnmowing or loader work and just a little ground engaging work then you may be better off with the hydro trans. Be sure to get the rear tires loaded as that helps a lot for loader stabilization and most field work. I would also recommend the telescoping lower link ends as these tractors are big, heavy and tough to hitch without. That tractor is too wide for a 5 foot cutter as it wont cover the width, especially if you do get the R4 tires. At least with the more efficient gear trans, there is plenty of power for a 6 foot bush-hog. Also, dont even think about a cab if you want to use the tractor in the woods.