BX24 battery cable length

   / BX24 battery cable length #1  

mpowrd

Bronze Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
88
Location
California
Tractor
Kubota BX24
I need to replace the positive battery cable on my 16-year old BX24 because the connector has gotten so deformed over the years that it no longer clamps properly and can still be moved around even with the bolt tightened all the way down.

Rather than put a generic clamp-on battery terminal on the original cable, I'd like to get a complete cable with connector.

Does anyone know the length of the positive cable in the BX24's?

Thanks,
Steve
 
   / BX24 battery cable length
  • Thread Starter
#3  
It goes under the dash and will require me to remove the engine cover. If someone had already measured theirs, it would save me some time and I could get one on the way home today.
 
   / BX24 battery cable length #4  
Another idea, cut the connector off and crimp a lug on the end of the cable. Get a generic battery post clamp that takes a lug connection. I've done that on my BX2350 and it is much simpler to replace the post clamp than the entire cable. You can also crimp in a battery maintainer wire and not have to worry about the corrosion.
 
   / BX24 battery cable length
  • Thread Starter
#5  
@butimd: That's my plan for tonight, but long term I'd rather have a cable with a factory post clamp than the clamped-on generic one to reduce the possible corrosion points, but I always have several of the generic ones in my parts bin.

I got a new battery today and that plus new post clamps should have me going again.

Historically, my problem has usually been that the post clamp gets corrosion between it and the post and I have to take them off and wire brush or scrape it down to bare metal again. I guess that's the price I pay for making my tractor live in a Shelter Logic enclosure where it's subject to the temperature variations and winter moisture we get here in Northern California during the winter.
 
   / BX24 battery cable length #6  
That's interesting, because I went with the generic clamps because the stock ones were deforming and only contacting the posts in a couple of places, allowing corrosion to form on the rest of the post and spread into the contact patches. Anyway, I hope your solution works for you.
 
 
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