if his dealer knew he was wrenching on a bolt and it stripped out. he could say that the costumer caused more work than necessary, and charge the costumer for the extra work. now a good dealer would not do that, but come meet my local dealer and ask him to order a shop manual for you he'll like you are holding him down while trying cut out one of his kidney's. he would not order the manual
BX24 BH zerk refuses to take grease & bushing stuck
- Thread starter DaveVales
- Start date
KennyV
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2004
- Messages
- 2,582
- Tractor
- Kubota L4200 GSTCA
Sorry you are at the mercy of such an #%&@!, hope he will go out of business soon as a result of it, Then you may get a reasonable business man in to sell and service Kubota…
Back to Dave’s problem … The bolt that cages his pin is not threaded into anything, it’s a common bolt through the end of the pin and cages that pin to the boom . Simply driving the bolt out, then driving the pin out, examine the pin for the problem, repair or replace the pin… Reinstall the pin with thrust washers and reinstall the bolt and nut…
This whole process will not take as long as loading and hauling his tractor to the dealer, let alone returning when they get the time to fix it and hauling back to his place…If he is so inclined he could even take the pin to his dealer to exchange or have them cross drill it, he did say dealer gave him some new zerks to try…
My tractors have always been larger and I would never have considered transporting them for minor repair, in or out of warranty.
Dave I hope you have your pin fixed…
jinmalover I hope you get a decent business man to deal with. KennyV.
Back to Dave’s problem … The bolt that cages his pin is not threaded into anything, it’s a common bolt through the end of the pin and cages that pin to the boom . Simply driving the bolt out, then driving the pin out, examine the pin for the problem, repair or replace the pin… Reinstall the pin with thrust washers and reinstall the bolt and nut…
This whole process will not take as long as loading and hauling his tractor to the dealer, let alone returning when they get the time to fix it and hauling back to his place…If he is so inclined he could even take the pin to his dealer to exchange or have them cross drill it, he did say dealer gave him some new zerks to try…
My tractors have always been larger and I would never have considered transporting them for minor repair, in or out of warranty.
Dave I hope you have your pin fixed…
jinmalover I hope you get a decent business man to deal with. KennyV.
The Gardener
Gold Member
DaveVales said:
So far, no luck.
I have thoroughy enjoyed everyone's comments, but unfortunately the dipper pivot pin (learned that term talking to the service manager today) remains FIRMLY stuck in place. The service manager said to bend a wire at 90 degrees, look inside the pin for a hole, and try to clean it out (sound familiar? - KennyV you now qualify as a Service Manager). Well this time I used a smaller wire and found the hole, dug out some sticky grease, but no luck getting grease in. At this point I do not think it is not cross drilled.
The service manager also said sometimes you have to close your eyes and give the through bolt a good whack to remove it. So today I got the boom into what I thought was a lowest stress position for the pivot pin, took off the through bolt nut, and with eyes open and a prayer, began whacking on the bolt. The bolt finally came out using a punch and boy that thing looks beat up. There is a lot of stress going on here.
I wish the next step was as simple as KennyV suggested - simply driving out the pin. That pin is wedged in there so tight my 16lb maul could barely move it. I began hitting the pivot points on each side of the thrust washers with PB Blaster hoping to loosen things up. Something is torqued oddly holding that pin in place. I worked the boom into many positions, more PB, more banging, and after 2 hours called it quits. Put it back together, squeezed what little grease I could into the zerk, and here I am. I think there are some odd stresses that are blocking the grease channels, or the thing is seriously rusted inside.
On to the warranty issue and the service manager/dealer. I think (thought) hauling a tractor to the dealer to fix only this under warranty is (was) too much trouble for what I initially thought was a simple problem - but if I run it without grease then... After hours of frustration it seems like the only solution. I did my best, and I did it without ruining anything except a few paint chips.
The dealer is trying to get a mobile shop up and running - but the service manager is the mobile repair man too and his time is limited. He said at least a week out if he was to try to fix it here. I have a bad tach/hourmeter that he will replace and I will have him work on the pivot pin at the same time. They will likely haul my machine back to their shop to do the repairs. Until then I have to be careful not to use the backhoe too much.
What burns me is that they should have caught this during dealer prep. Other things they missed at prep: loose seat nuts eventually leading to the seat falling off, missing headlight bulb, missing bracket retainer on the ROPS, bad hour/tach LCD, and no grease in the MMM spindles. I spent quite a bit more (not quite, but close to the $1,000 more The Gardener correctly estimated) to buy from these folks than from 2 other dealers and while I can accept some issues, the ones I found seem too obvious to me to miss them with good prep.
Since I do not own a trailer I asked over and over before purchase about free pickup and delivery for warranty service and was assured it would happen. So far i have no reason to doubt that it will not, but like KennyV, this seems like it should be a simple repair thing - maybe the service manager is questioning my ability and does not want to have to make a trip out here only to find it is not that big of a deal (or in this case actually find out it really is a problem). If I were a dealer I would not want to have to jump at every "little" customer request, but as a customer, fulfilling nr not fulfilling every "little" request can be a future deal breaker.
Good suggestion The Gardener about the rental while mine is in for repair - I will ask.
So the saga is not over and I will update as things develop. I look at all those other pins, how loose they are, and how easy the fix could be if this one were only so easy to remove...
I have thoroughy enjoyed everyone's comments, but unfortunately the dipper pivot pin (learned that term talking to the service manager today) remains FIRMLY stuck in place. The service manager said to bend a wire at 90 degrees, look inside the pin for a hole, and try to clean it out (sound familiar? - KennyV you now qualify as a Service Manager). Well this time I used a smaller wire and found the hole, dug out some sticky grease, but no luck getting grease in. At this point I do not think it is not cross drilled.
The service manager also said sometimes you have to close your eyes and give the through bolt a good whack to remove it. So today I got the boom into what I thought was a lowest stress position for the pivot pin, took off the through bolt nut, and with eyes open and a prayer, began whacking on the bolt. The bolt finally came out using a punch and boy that thing looks beat up. There is a lot of stress going on here.
I wish the next step was as simple as KennyV suggested - simply driving out the pin. That pin is wedged in there so tight my 16lb maul could barely move it. I began hitting the pivot points on each side of the thrust washers with PB Blaster hoping to loosen things up. Something is torqued oddly holding that pin in place. I worked the boom into many positions, more PB, more banging, and after 2 hours called it quits. Put it back together, squeezed what little grease I could into the zerk, and here I am. I think there are some odd stresses that are blocking the grease channels, or the thing is seriously rusted inside.
On to the warranty issue and the service manager/dealer. I think (thought) hauling a tractor to the dealer to fix only this under warranty is (was) too much trouble for what I initially thought was a simple problem - but if I run it without grease then... After hours of frustration it seems like the only solution. I did my best, and I did it without ruining anything except a few paint chips.
The dealer is trying to get a mobile shop up and running - but the service manager is the mobile repair man too and his time is limited. He said at least a week out if he was to try to fix it here. I have a bad tach/hourmeter that he will replace and I will have him work on the pivot pin at the same time. They will likely haul my machine back to their shop to do the repairs. Until then I have to be careful not to use the backhoe too much.
What burns me is that they should have caught this during dealer prep. Other things they missed at prep: loose seat nuts eventually leading to the seat falling off, missing headlight bulb, missing bracket retainer on the ROPS, bad hour/tach LCD, and no grease in the MMM spindles. I spent quite a bit more (not quite, but close to the $1,000 more The Gardener correctly estimated) to buy from these folks than from 2 other dealers and while I can accept some issues, the ones I found seem too obvious to me to miss them with good prep.
Since I do not own a trailer I asked over and over before purchase about free pickup and delivery for warranty service and was assured it would happen. So far i have no reason to doubt that it will not, but like KennyV, this seems like it should be a simple repair thing - maybe the service manager is questioning my ability and does not want to have to make a trip out here only to find it is not that big of a deal (or in this case actually find out it really is a problem). If I were a dealer I would not want to have to jump at every "little" customer request, but as a customer, fulfilling nr not fulfilling every "little" request can be a future deal breaker.
Good suggestion The Gardener about the rental while mine is in for repair - I will ask.
So the saga is not over and I will update as things develop. I look at all those other pins, how loose they are, and how easy the fix could be if this one were only so easy to remove...
The Gardener
Gold Member
Dave,
I really hope, as do we all, that this entire situation can be worked out to your complete satisfaction asap. We have all been through similar frustrations with new purchases. I know that I have certainly had my share of new product/warranty/dealer disappointments. It's not fun at all.
I truly hope your dealer makes things right for you!!!
Sincerely,
The Gardener
I really hope, as do we all, that this entire situation can be worked out to your complete satisfaction asap. We have all been through similar frustrations with new purchases. I know that I have certainly had my share of new product/warranty/dealer disappointments. It's not fun at all.
I truly hope your dealer makes things right for you!!!
Sincerely,
The Gardener
Sully2
Veteran Member
Dale: How far is the dealer away from you...milage wise??
Ok, here's an interesting update on my dipper pivot pin grease problem.
The dealer came and picked up the tractor about 10 days ago to work on the pivot pin, fix the tach LCD, and do the seat recall. It's still at the dealer but the service manager told me today that the bushing did not appear to have a final finish on it thus causing an unusually tight fit with the pin. They ordered a new bushing and pin - the pin was required because they had to bash it to get it out. It will be fixed under warranty. The dealer was going above what the warranty states (transportation to & from dealer for repairs is not covered under the warranty), but I basically paid for it when paying many $$$ more than another dealer not much farther away. I do think they should have caught this during dealer prep though.
The dealer came and picked up the tractor about 10 days ago to work on the pivot pin, fix the tach LCD, and do the seat recall. It's still at the dealer but the service manager told me today that the bushing did not appear to have a final finish on it thus causing an unusually tight fit with the pin. They ordered a new bushing and pin - the pin was required because they had to bash it to get it out. It will be fixed under warranty. The dealer was going above what the warranty states (transportation to & from dealer for repairs is not covered under the warranty), but I basically paid for it when paying many $$$ more than another dealer not much farther away. I do think they should have caught this during dealer prep though.
MOPAULY
Gold Member
I just went through the exact same thing with my 24. I had to bang the pin out, and basically resurface it with a bench grinder. Now it fits properly and takes grease.
rdsaustintx
Veteran Member
Dunno if the same problem, but I couldn't get my BX23 to take grease at that same pin. I pushed it out enough to get at the bolt hole, spun it 180 degrees and it worked fine.
RDnT
RDnT
dfkrug
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2004
- Messages
- 7,187
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mtns, CA
- Tractor
- 05 Kioti CK30HST w/ Prairie Dog backhoe, XN08 mini-X
Two things I have noticed in these situations:
> New hoes are not usually greased, and often left outside in the
rain. Water gets into the pivot pins and rusts. The first time it
gets greased is by the owner and now he has a rust plug to deal
with. Some pins have a grease groove in the middle of the pin,
which is even more rust-prone. Getting the pivot pin out is hard.
> End-drilled pins are usually installed originally by pounding on the
end without the zerk. This causes a slight mushrooming of that end,
esp if the person doing assembly is a bit aggressive. When removing
the pin, push it out from the zerk side. I use a piece of pipe that fits
around the zerk, and I pound on that.
Above lessons learned the hard way.
> New hoes are not usually greased, and often left outside in the
rain. Water gets into the pivot pins and rusts. The first time it
gets greased is by the owner and now he has a rust plug to deal
with. Some pins have a grease groove in the middle of the pin,
which is even more rust-prone. Getting the pivot pin out is hard.
> End-drilled pins are usually installed originally by pounding on the
end without the zerk. This causes a slight mushrooming of that end,
esp if the person doing assembly is a bit aggressive. When removing
the pin, push it out from the zerk side. I use a piece of pipe that fits
around the zerk, and I pound on that.
Above lessons learned the hard way.