cab project

   / cab project #1  

Dirtnut

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2004
Messages
243
Location
North Central, Pa. USA
Tractor
Kioti LK3054w/cab
being inspired buy other cab projects on tbn i decided this week to start my own cab build. i have a kioti lk3054, after one whole day of thinking & looking & thinking i started to cut & weld steel. after 4 days i have a main frame tacked together & almost complete. need to add a couple of more verticle pieces for door hinge & window areas. took it off of the tractor to make it easier to finish weld grind add pieces. hopefully next week i can get my sheet steel to do the roof & none window areas. here is some pics of what is done now. well i would like to post pictures but the attachment manager wont open it just flashes one time and nothing comes up. HELP!!!!
 
   / cab project #3  
Dont forget how neat those old school bus rear windows work for home made cabs.:D..............Whereabouts in north central Pa. you from?.................DIGGER2
 
   / cab project
  • Thread Starter
#4  
4 miles northeast of blossburg. cant get this stupid computer to post pictures. this thread may be a none starter if i cant get it to work.
 
   / cab project
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Think we got it to work, thanks to my better half. Here are the pictures of my cab project. Hope they post.
 

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   / cab project #6  
Coming along nicely!

Reminds me of my cab build a while back. Kinda along the same lines.

Rather than weld roof and pannels I opted to use galvanized sheets that I attached with HD metal self tapping screws as I did not want a finish that would chip, scratch and rust.
Did same for roof with incorporated rain gutters and fore and aft 'brows' to avoid streeking of the windows .
Faster and neeter product than I would have attained had I welded the pannels.

An advantage to screwing on the roof was that I could 'sandwitch' a foam backed headliner between frame and roof.
That greatly eliminated 'drumming' as well as condensation drips.

Suggestion: I used self adhesive foam strips wherever the frame meets with fenders or other body parts.
This makes for good seal as well as prevents chaffing metal to metal parts and prevents rusting.

I recently discovered a great product to fill the gap between the front lower cross frame and my tractor hood (curved dash area).
It is weather seal strips that look like 3" 'paint brushes by the yard' that they use as door seals on commercial metal buildings.
The brush is clamped between about a 1" strip af aluminum and simply screws to the frame. The bristles 'splay' to conform to the hood (well dash area) and being tightly knit stop all wind water and snow.

Good luck, nice work.
 
   / cab project
  • Thread Starter
#7  
well i did get a little welding done last night late 11:00. went to grizzly tools in a snow storm to pick up two new power tools for my shop and of course i could not wait till morning to play. used the welder what a dream after using an old lincoln stick for years.did make a couple cuts with the bandsaw works great but time will tell. probably wont get anything done today,need to get out & plow snow sure wish my cab was done.
 

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   / cab project #8  
Looks like you will have alot of room inside. What did you decide for structure ? ( 2 x 2 1/8" wall tubing ? ) The more projects displayed the better the ideas. I like the school bus glass mentioned in the thread. It would look great, cheap to buy, and a solid piece to work with. Good luck, more ideas, and more pictures !
 
   / cab project
  • Thread Starter
#9  
i used 1.5x1.5x1/8 tubing it is stronger than mild steel wiped out the carbide blade on my milwaukee chop saw at $180.00 i got a bandsaw with a bi-metal blade. plan on glueing the glass to the post like on big equipment,not sure if that will work for the door though since it may get slammed. also plan on framing & putting hinges on side & rear window for glass so i can open them in the summer. have lots of ideas but will decide as the build progresses.
 
   / cab project #10  
Would there be enough flexing in any frame on a tractor to crack the glass if it is glued to the frame? I assume you're talking about the same urethane used to glue car windshields in place?

What would be cool is to mount a small truck refer unit to the roof and just leave the whole thing on year round.

What can you tell us about your shop building? Looks like a quonset style? Did you put it up yourself and has it been a better choice for you than say a post and frame metal building?
 
 
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