Cab stability vs Non-Cab

   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #1  

Opus101

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Jul 14, 2009
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General safety question. I am close to purchasing a JD 3720 Cab Tractor for a Tree farm I will be responsible for regular mowing. Is there really a major difference in the "Tip Factor" in the small CUT's with the Cab vs the no-cab same model? I am leaning towards the cab model because I will be mowing close to 40+ acres and am tired of sucking down the pollen/dust the whole time. Most of the fields are flat but a couple are on side hills with some elevation to deal with at the top turn around.

thanks for any feedback in advance!!!
 
   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #2  
I haven't noticed any real tipping concerns with my cab tractor, just need to use some common sense and not press your luck when working in hilly areas.

I have seen some cab tractors mowing the Interstate Right of Ways and those guys run those tractors sideways on hills, and bridge embankments that I would never do.......but I'm sure they have done it before.

Good Luck!

Stu
 
   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #3  
Obiviously they have a slightly higher center of gravity, but I don't feel any concern with mine.

You will like the air when you are out mowing. You need to set the air condition to bring in fresh air (vs recirculate) because it creates a slight outward pressure to keep the pollen and grass out any imperfections in your seal.
 
   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #4  
I think the JD cabbed 3x20 series are tippy. Depends on your hills. It feels much more stable with an attachment on the back such as mower, boxblade etc. Do a search and many posters mention the tippy sensation but I don't know of any that have actually tipped over. My overall tire width with R4s is 59" which is not very wide. Ag tires can be set wider.
 
   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #5  
My 3520 Cab used to scare me on some of my slopes, 25 degrees on the tiltmeter even with my wheels turned out to their widest. When digging my pond I had it lift up on 3 wheels a few times, so loaded my tires with Canadian Beet Juice and eventually installed 6" wheel spacers on each side (rear) giving me a foot more width which feels SOooo much better.

I would highly recommend rear ballast, whether wheel weights, loaded tires or something to keep you glued to the ground when mowing slopes. Always best to approach slopes on the vertical,....but if not practical, then weight is important. Naturally "carrying" your mower etc adds weight and stability, ..until you lower it to mow etc, so extra ballast is good on hills.

I can't honestly say the cab weight was to blame for the tippyness or just my extra heavy (wet clay) bucket loads and awkward angles turning around, but it must have added to the problem.

You'll absolutely love the AC on those hot and dusty days, it sure makes a huge difference to the length of time you can work and stay alert!!

Good luck,
. . tug

PS: Opus,...Welcome In,...it's truly a wondrous place to have your questions answered. Just remember,...If you want an answer,....."NO" question is stupid!!!
 
   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #6  
Naturally "carrying" your mower etc adds weight and stability, ..until you lower it to mow etc, so extra ballast is good on hills.

"carrying the mower" adds side-hill stability, no matter whether it is lowered to mow or raised to transport ...in fact, lowered adds more stability ...reason is that while your three point "floats", it will bottom out before you tip over and so the mower when lowered adds weight at the best possible point, well below the (lateral) CG. Conceivably, if you were right on the hairy edge, the tractor would oscillate--start to tip until the mower raised, then come back down until the mower was planted, etc.

However, what you say is true for longitudinal stability --i.e., going downhill face first. Again, if the tractor is right on the hairy edge of wanting to "unweight" the rear wheels, then lowering the mower makes it worse, and raising it makes it better ....in any event, you want to be in 4wd in such a situation so that the fronts give you engine braking. This is a must! (as others have said, don't ask me how I know)
 
   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #7  
I would think that for mowing (or snow blowing) a cab would be great. In my case however I am seldom on smooth level ground and I like the visibility that the open air offers. Plus I know that I would just wind up breaking some windows when in the bush.
 
   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #8  
Ah yea Pat,....the cab and heat is fantastic in the winter! I don't know how you can work the "Bancroft" winters without a cab,...B-b-b-r-r-rrrr!!

And yes, the windshield and side glass have "saved" me a few branch face slaps in the bush but so far no cabin damage other than having to reach out and turn my mirrors back periodically.. AC is nice in summer too!!

Back to the original question: yes I think the cab has to add to non-stability to some degree,.. but as I said above with my wheel spacers I feel good now and at least for "my" particular wants and needs, the cab is worth whatever might be the negatives.

All the best,
. . tug
 
   / Cab stability vs Non-Cab #9  
cabs seem nice.

It also is a basic rule of physics that more weight up top = higher center of gravity = tippier. So all things being equal, of course a cab tractor will be tippier than the same model tractor without a cab. Does it matter? Depends on you. How you drive it probably matters more.
 
 
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