Car Axles used for Utility Trailers

   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #21  
I've got two utility trailers that each use a 1828-31 Model A Ford Front Axles...
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #22  
Maybe it's just me. But, I can go buy a 5,000 lb, 4" drop axle, springs and spindles for about $200.00 from my local trailer supply. With that, everything is new, including the bearings, races, etc. When I work on something, I want it to be as long as possible before I work on it again. For $200.00, why bother with a junkyard axle?

Edit... maybe I should say that I DID buy that axle a couple years ago when I built my trailer. I have not checked prices recently.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #23  
My old boss was building car haulers for side money. He just bought used mobile home axles that were used for one delivery. I think a set were maybe $100. He did this several times before I left that job.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #24  
This is a timely thread for me to read. I just picked this old thing out of a farmers yard for $40. Put $20 of tires on it and $20 of lights. Seems to work great, although, as mentioned it is neutral in weight balance and I need more tongue weight.

IMG_0296.jpg


I use it for mulch, compost, etc. on the highway (back roads only), and around the house. When I put the lights on, I discovered a stamp behind the lights. It's a '59 Ford.

Ya'll were talking above my head with all the "floating" this and that stuff. But I don't think this is the preferred setup? And, I think the differential is in there spinning around? I can pull it easily by hand though, so can't be that much drag.

Here's some photos of the underside. Can anyone shed some light on what type of axle it is? Thanks.

IMG_9956.jpg


IMG_9957.jpg
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #25  
That is a half ton ford axle that has been put in up side down. The brakes have been removed and proble the pinnion gear has been removed also. It will hall any thing that the tires will take. Keep the load forward an it will make a good trailer. I have a lot of good trailers and for $40 I would have bought it also.........Larry
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #26  
Last fall I built a trailer for a WoodMizer sawmill from a Dodge Caravan rear end. Came with springs, wheels, shocks,& good tires for $65. It was all we needed for the sawmill. The entire brake backing plates/drums are bolted & easily removed or you could use a surge brake hitch to activate them. Could have used smaller wheels/tires but with bigger tires the mill moves easily over rough/soft ground by hand. Let your intended use dictate the axle strength & type. Overbuilt is almost as bad as underbuilt (not counting the part about killing a kid in another car).:eek: MikeD74T
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #27  
Tony 123, I would venture to say that is a pre 1954 chevy rear axle. I'm quessing that because of the enclosed driveshaft, but it could also be a same vintage car GM car rear they also had an enclosed driveshaft. Later, Nat
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #28  
I have a weird thing going for 4" x 4" lug bolt rear small car rear axles. They usually have a 4 bolt flange where they connect to the car. I build yard trailers and use 22x11x8 atv tires and wheels on them. I build weed sprayers and anything that requires wheels from wrecking yard car axles. It's gettin' spendy now the wrecking yard guy ask for $50 for a set that included some crappy wheels and tires though. My BIY trailers are all field/yard trailers not for hiway use. bjr
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #29  
OK. Here's the scoop on a floating vs. non floating rear end.

On a floating rear end (8.8 ford or chevy 1/2 ton) the axles are held in by c-clips. These retaining clips are on the inboard end of the axle (at the differential). If the axle breaks there is nothing to hold it in the housing and you will loose the axle and wheel and tire. Look at the last picture and you'll see where the clip goes onto the end of the axle to retain it.
http://members.cox.net/quanno/ford88.html

On a non floating rear end (Ford 9" or Dana 60) the axles are held in by a retaining plate outside of the wheel bearing. There are four bolts that retain the axle. If you break an axle you loose nothing. That's why these rear ends are so popular with the drag racing and off road crowds. Look at this picture and you'll see the retaining flange and bolts that hold the axle in. Much stronger!!
Rear Shaft pictures from cars photos on webshots

Chris
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #30  
firefighter9208 said:
OK. Here's the scoop on a floating vs. non floating rear end.

On a floating rear end (8.8 ford or chevy 1/2 ton) the axles are held in by c-clips. These retaining clips are on the inboard end of the axle (at the differential). If the axle breaks there is nothing to hold it in the housing and you will loose the axle and wheel and tire. Look at the last picture and you'll see where the clip goes onto the end of the axle to retain it.
http://members.cox.net/quanno/ford88.html

On a non floating rear end (Ford 9" or Dana 60) the axles are held in by a retaining plate outside of the wheel bearing. There are four bolts that retain the axle. If you break an axle you loose nothing. That's why these rear ends are so popular with the drag racing and off road crowds. Look at this picture and you'll see the retaining flange and bolts that hold the axle in. Much stronger!!
Rear Shaft pictures from cars photos on webshots

Chris

The other big difference is the bearings themselves. On the semi-floating there is only one bearing out at the wheel end. The other bearing for that side of the axle is the diff.

On the full floater, there are two complete bearings at the wheel end, one at each side of the hub. Much sturdier construction.

Hey Chris, I just looked at the pics you posted and I do not believe that second set is a full floater. It just has a different way to keep the axle shaft in place. On a Dana 80 full floater there is a big hub that sticks out beyond the wheel mounting face and the axle shaft bolts to that hub with eight external bolts. You can remove those bolts, pull the axle shaft and the wheel will still support a load and rotate freely. I can't tell from the pic but it looks like there is still only one bearing at the wheel end of that axle shaft?

You know, one of these days I'm going to learn to read. You said non-floater and I was thinking full-floater. Sorry about that.
 
 
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