Carbide chainsaw chains

[crazyal]

To me the biggest problem is that they stretch at the same rate as any other chain. I'm not a fan of sharpening a chain but I hate throwing out a chain that's stretched too far while the cutters are still good. I can see if you are cutting stuff that requires sharpening all the time. I would suggest maybe trying a Timerline sharpener as an alternate to going carbide. I don't have one but they look like a step up from a file for sharpening in the field.

 

[Doofy]

The Timberline Sharpener appears well made and sturdy and would certainty enhance my sharpening skills. Over time, my angle wanders off a little and my cuts become crooked. I may just try one.

 

[ArlyA]

Speaking of chain sharpening. Because we do trail clearing, we commonly cut next to the dirt and dull that side of the chain more often. Yes we sharpen both sides, but the ground side always gets more steel taken off, so a after a few redoes by me, it goes back to the pro's who even the left/right them back up and also makes the tooth angles correct again. But as I understand tooth grinding, carbide is a much harder material to grind and sharpen. Does the common chain sharpening tools work or last very long doing carbide??? Small minds like to know.

The Timberline Sharpener appears well made and sturdy and would certainty enhance my sharpening skills. Over time, my angle wanders off a little and my cuts become crooked. I may just try one.

 

[Doofy]

From what I've read, the carbide chain is "polished" with a diamond wheel.

 

[the old grind]

Carbide chips too easily. I can buy decent import diamond wheels for half what I pay for any CBN wheels, and barely twice what vitreous cost. Power sharpeners require a bit of technique or you compromise tooth rake on the upstroke, a most common oversight that causes people to buy expensive vs HFT chain sharpeners and go back to filing w/o proper guidance on the machine. 'Stretch' can be dealt with by having the shop take out a link, but many refuse to because it's not so good for sprockets.

A Journeyman can do good work on a ragged-out machine. A rookie will blame the equipment and defend his untrained process. Most guys go too long between sharpening, and I often have to peel half the teeth's useful length to bring 'em up sharp. Use a dial or digital caliper to compare R-L tooth length to maintain an even grind on both sides of the chain and a straight cut.

I grind depth gauges (aka 'rakers') almost completely away. Our saws don't 'kick back', but one can stall a 16" bar in a 15" dia log with my 'race' grind. I sharpen anything and everything you guys bring me at no charge. Do ya wish you lived closer? (.. well, I do!)

Doofy, what many call 'polish' we call 'lapping' in the trade. We use a special diamond grit paste (for carbide) and a proprietary 'smooth' wheel. That smooth, shiny finish means a lot of 'hits' between tool changes on a production line, but offers much less advantage when cutting wood. t o g

 

[Doofy]

Good info, old grind. Not sure why I get off on these tangents. I have 10-15 sharpened chains hanging up and ready and I get interested in carbide. In actuality, I'm so fat and stove up that I probably won't be cutting anything. The mind is strong but the body is weak. Good thing the Wife likes chainsaws and wood cutting.

 

[PILOON]

I touch up my blade every 2nd tanking.
Only one stroke per tooth and that makes all the difference, chips really fly!
If I clip a stone then back at my shop I clamp the blade in my vice and even things up.
Occasionally I cut back the rakers for better chips.
Another thing I like to do is store spare chains well oiled or even in a jug with oil. Also dressing the cutting bar from time to time is a wise thing to do.

 

[ArlyA]

What type of "cutting blade" are you speaking of piltoon?

I touch up my blade every 2nd tanking.
.

 

[Oldpath05]

Is Stihl the only carbide saw chain........ Looks like a good chain for cutting in swamps.

 

[Johnv656]

Carbide chips too easily. I can buy decent import diamond wheels for half what I pay for any CBN wheels, and barely twice what vitreous cost. Power sharpeners require a bit of technique or you compromise tooth rake on the upstroke, a most common oversight that causes people to buy expensive vs HFT chain sharpeners and go back to filing w/o proper guidance on the machine. 'Stretch' can be dealt with by having the shop take out a link, but many refuse to because it's not so good for sprockets.

A Journeyman can do good work on a ragged-out machine. A rookie will blame the equipment and defend his untrained process. Most guys go too long between sharpening, and I often have to peel half the teeth's useful length to bring 'em up sharp. Use a dial or digital caliper to compare R-L tooth length to maintain an even grind on both sides of the chain and a straight cut.

I grind depth gauges (aka 'rakers') almost completely away. Our saws don't 'kick back', but one can stall a 16" bar in a 15" dia log with my 'race' grind. I sharpen anything and everything you guys bring me at no charge. Do ya wish you lived closer? (.. well, I do!)

Doofy, what many call 'polish' we call 'lapping' in the trade. We use a special diamond grit paste (for carbide) and a proprietary 'smooth' wheel. That smooth, shiny finish means a lot of 'hits' between tool changes on a production line, but offers much less advantage when cutting wood. t o g

Where you at in Mid Michigan area, I sharpen my own chains but would like to see how you sharpen yours.