Loader Case 450 Loader Help

   / Case 450 Loader Help #1  

sruder123

New member
Joined
Feb 26, 2017
Messages
12
Location
Mukwonago, Wisconsin
Tractor
Kubota B21 TLB and Case 450 Crawler Loader
Just purchased an oldCase 450 Crawler Loader from a local farmer. Never operated a Dozer before so I am trying figure it out. Want buy an operators manual however appears serial number specific.

Which serial number do I use? I have one plate on the fuel tank and another on the frame of the Loader. They are different.

S/N 4148361 on machine (Loader frame)

On fuel tank
Model D450
S/N 3035899 IMG_9181.JPG
 
   / Case 450 Loader Help #2  
Use the number on the fuel tank. The loader will have it's own model, and serial number. According to J.I. Case Collectors Association, your tractor is a 1975 model. Case built Crawlers

Here is an online parts catalog at Case Construction., that should cover your tractor. Official Case Construction Equipment Online Parts Store and Parts Look Up. Parts for Case Equipment and Construction Equipment. Parts Store for Case Wheel Loaders, Case Excavators, Case Skid Steers, Case Original Parts.

I've had the best luck finding manuals for all of my equipment, including my 480C Case backhoe on ebay. I will say the OEM service manuals are great. A quick look at one on ebay, shows it has 887 pages. They are very informative, and have pictures, along with step by step instructions. Right now, there are 221 various manuals for the various 450's, from operators, to service manuals, and some for the backhoe attachment, which obviously you don't need. Here is the link. case 45 in Manuals & Books | eBay
 
   / Case 450 Loader Help
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the information. I actually have the service manual. It came with the machine. I am looking for the owners and it appears they are serial number specific. Embarrassed to say I am not sure how to operate it. All of the lever decals are worn off.
 
   / Case 450 Loader Help #4  
If it's like all I've seen, & operated, the should be 3 levers on the center console. 2 tall ones, and one short one. The short one is forward and reverse. The 2 tall ones are separate controls for each track. Full back, low range, forward one notch, neutral, full forward high range. You can do a power turn, by placing one of the tall levers in low, and the other in high. There is also a high and low shift, of the main transmission, using a lever coming up through the floor board. 99.9% of the time, it was operated in the low side, if I remember correctly as back. The only reason it was ever shifted to high, was to tram a long distance, and that was in the low side of the console shifters.

You can also do a soft turn, putting one track in either low, or high, and the other in neutral. Just be really careful using the brakes. They are dry brakes, and after a while of non use, they can grab. Usually fine dirt, and/or rust gets in the brake chambers. If you just touch the brake, it will make the ball in the expander crawl up to the full braking position. And..., also be aware that when you push the brake down part was, it kicks the track out of gear, and it will free wheel, if you don't catch it by pushing it down until the brake catches it.

Seeing it pulled on makes me rather shudder, thinking you'll have a tendency to try and slow it down, with the brakes when backing it off. Do know when you do that, going into a free wheel, and brake catching can turn you sideways on those ramps in a split second. So, when you go to back it off, do it at an idle, in low range. Be straight with the ramps, and let the transmission catch it coming off. Do NOT touch a brake..!! The engine will speed up a bit when it picks up speed backing off, but let it go. Much better than free wheeling... Keep the bucket within a foot of the deck/ramps. Height will changes as you back off, and the back of the tracks get on the ground. You'll need to raise the bucket as you back completely off. Try to keep it within a foot or so, in case it gets away from you. You can always drop the bucket, using it as an emergency brake.

And, if you plan on hauling it much, back it on, and pull it off. You have much more control of the machine.

As for general operation, when shifting from forward to reverse, let the machine come to a stop, before changing direction. It has a torque converter just like in a car, or truck. And you don't shift your truck from forward to reverse, without stopping. Same principle. You may do it several times, but eventually you'll break a motor, or transmission mount. On fairly level ground, just letting off the foot accelerator, it should stop within a matter of a foot, or so.

If the brakes are grabby, you'll need to remove the floor pan, and remove the brake chambers on the side of the transmission. Clean the facing in the chamber, and on the side of the transmission. If you look at the brake parts, you'll see two brake discs, and an expander between them. Separate the expander, and clean the 7/8" ball bearing, expander balls, or replace them If they are pitted. Clean the grooves of rust, and probably compacted dirt. I use a 3" knotted cup brush to clean what I can, then finish with an air die grinder, with a 2" Roloc disc type head, using the medium gasket removal type discs. They polish things up nice, but don't cut it like sanding discs. I've read you're not supposed to, but I put a real thin coat of Never seize in the grooves, and on the expander balls. Makes for a real smooth braking action, until they get grabby again. I'm thinking the "not supposed to" part would be if you slathered it on, and then it got on the brake facings. But, I've never had any problems just putting a this coat on, basically enough to turn things silver, not gob it in there.

Does it have the ROPS mounts on it..?? I'm thinking by it's age, it was built when ROPS cages weren't required. Depending on what you're going to do with it... If your planning on taking out trees, a ROPS, and limb risers could keep a tree off of you. I had a buddy at work get pinned in the seat, when he'd taken the ROPS off to push rip rap in under a small bridge. He took it back to the yard, and they had him push some dirt & small trees, stumps, etc. into a swampy area they were filling. A tree jumped up over the blade, knocked the exhaust pipe off, and pinned him to the back of the seat, pinning both arms, to where he could not back up, until he finally got his one arm free to do that.

Just be really careful, things can happen in the blink of an eye...
 
   / Case 450 Loader Help
  • Thread Starter
#5  
This is great info. Thanks DJ54. I was not sure what the lever on the floor was for as all the labels are gone. I think I had it forward. It didn't seem to have much power to climb an incline shifted forward. I will try it shifted back to what I think you called low range. Can this be shifted when running? Didn't want to let me shift when sitting at idle.

Brakes themselves do not work at all. Farmer never used them. I have some hilly terrain to traverse and yes I'm hoping to use this to keep my fence line clear as well as clear some land of brush and small trees. Hoping this will do the task. It does not have a ROPS like my Kubota does. I'm sitting out there in the open.

Machine does need some TLC and I'm willing to put in the work. Just hope drivability is good as I have enough acreage that I could get far enough away from the barn and get it stuck or in a place where it breaks down and that would suck.
 
   / Case 450 Loader Help #6  
You can not shift from lo to hi on the move, in fact I've never used hi range on mine, fast speed = FAST track wear!

On most old 450's the brakes quit right away and never get fixed, they are just too much trouble to keep working properly. They are seldom needed anyway, with the way the hydrostat trans works... I don't miss them at all on mine.

SR
 
   / Case 450 Loader Help #7  
Sawyer Rob is correct. You cannot shift on the move, and IIRC, it needs to be in neutral on the forward & reverse lever to stop the trans. from spinning.

There are two master cylinders under the floor plate. I remember having to fill them periodically. But then, the machine was 14 years old, when I transferred to that crew. The master cylinders seeped out around the cup, and also the single cup hyd. brake cylinder did too. To save down time, we just kept refilling.

Also like Sawyer Rob said, we never used the brakes all that much, but did try to keep them operational, just in case. Most of the work it did was in creek channels, straightening them out. So most of the turns were either by killing a track for a slow turn, by putting one in neutral, or, one in high, and the other in low for making a power turn. Depended on what you were pushing at the time. Moving logs out of a jam, or pushing a sandbar.

All of our tractors were ordered with winches. Being all of them spent time working creeks, sometimes you tied off to a large tree, for a life line, in case you hit a hole in murky water. It makes for a slow process, having to spool the line in and out, going forward & backward. Worth their weight in gold, when you need them though.

I will say those engines are near bullet proof, as long as you keep them serviced. That one had over 7500 hrs. showing on the hr. meter. We were on a job cutting dirt, and let one of the County operators run it pushing spoil. Never bothered to check the engine oil for about 2 weeks. It would use/leak about a quart every 2, 10 hour days of hard pushing. Ran her out of oil, and spun the bearings. They put a remanufactured engine in it, and we ran it another 3-4 years, until it was time to trade. One of the counties opted to give what the dealer offered in trade. They were still running it, when I retired 12 years ago. She was a good'n...
 
   / Case 450 Loader Help
  • Thread Starter
#8  
This is great information. I will try shifting it in neutral. Was just sitting at an idle and would not shift. Don't remember if I was in neutral.

Sawyer Bob. You mentioned a hydro trans. This does have a hydrontrans? I need to start checking fluids to see if levels are right. I also saw on a post that fluid types are important on these machines.
 
   / Case 450 Loader Help #9  
The transmission is a torq converter hydrostat transmission...

Use to be a special oil was made for those trans, now Case recommends Case IH "Hy Tran", and that's what I use in mine.

Your manual will shot you how to check levels.

SR
 
 
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