Case 580CK Manual Shuttle and trans fluid?

[Mr Scrith]

I have a Case 580CK (1969 vintage), with the manual shuttle (have to push in clutch to switch from forward to reverse), I finally got around to checking the levels and found that the forward transmission housing (I think it's the one that holds the forward/reverse/high/low) is low. The back part (which I think holds the 4-speed and the diff) appears to be full of what I'm guessing is 90 weight (going by the smell). Is that the same stuff that's used in the forward case as well?

Also, while we are on the subject. How hard is it to replace the forward gears in the direction selection? The 580 will slip out of forward even when not under load, I have to hold it in place in order to get anywhere going forward. Going reverse is ok, that stays in place. Once it gets into winter and I'm no longer doing construction I'll probably look at replacing it and some of the other bigger projects around the farm.

 

[DJ54]

Yes, that should be SAE 90 also. Sounds like the front seal may be leaking, and as I'm sure you know the tractor will need to be split to replace. While it is apart if you decide to replace the seal, check the input shaft bearing for wear, and the surface the seal rides on. If just a groove worn in where the seal rides, a speedi-sleeve will fix that. If you have a good local bearing supply, they should be able to match up a speedi-sleeve and seal combo. A top notch NAPA parts store can do the same.

As far as the reverser/direction selector, that is more than likely in the shuttle lever cover. Here is a link to Case Construction parts book for the 580CK tractor. CASE CONSTRUCTION | Schematic, Manuals, Specifications and Diagrams for mechanical shuttle control cover, standard clutch | MyCNHi US Store Take note of part #1 in the exploded view, which I believe is what you have for the forward reverse lever. Look closely at parts 4, 6, 7, and 9. They call them lock pins, but are roll/spring pins. Those pins can partially shear, or the hole in part 6 can get wallowed out, and you lose a lot of travel to engage one way or the other. I had the same problem on my old 310B. An easy fix was to drill out the hole in both pieces and install a larger roll pin. It was actually large enough I was able to find a smaller one in my kit to drive a smaller one inside of that one.

It could also be worn splines on part #25, worn end on part #27, or part #28 had slipped on the shift rail. You'll just have to take the top cover off and check everything. On mine, I just came to the conclusion it was from years of ramming/cramming/forcing the shuttle before coming to a complete stop before trying to change directions with the reverser. When you look at it, you'll wonder how those small pins lasted as long as they did. The reverser was a great idea, just a little light on the connections internally not taking into consideration quite a few operators would be shifting before coming to a complete stop avoiding gear clash. Although a different style reverser, once I got mine tightened up I could easily shift from forward to reverse with my index finger and thumb on the knob at a complete stop. It's worth that extra second or two to do that to prevent excess wear. You never get that down time back.

The great thing is, you can remove that cover and do repairs on the bench top.