Castrol Edge VS Mobil 1

[sixdogs]

I'll bet either one is so good in quality it likely won't matter.

As for wear, a guy I know drives a cop car in an extremely cold climate and abuses it terribly. Gets in at 20 below and floors it ASAP kind of thing. Very abusive and they go over 10,000 miles on oil changes. I can't recall but maybe 15,000-20,000?
Anyway, they have not had an engine fail with Mobil 1 but replaced many during the old days of Dino oil. Mechanic says the difference in engines is night and day.

I recently started going longer on my Mobil 1 changes to 6,000 on the daily driver. Have synthtics in tractors and everything else and started to stretch changes as well. Heck, I dont think any of us will live long enough to wear an engine out with modern synthetic. My two cents.

For CurleyDave, I get Mobil 1 extended at AutoZone and if they run out will order it for me. On sale now for five qts with Mobil 1 filter for $30. Great deal.

 

[sw03]

I'll bet either one is so good in quality it likely won't matter.

As for wear, a guy I know drives a cop car in an extremely cold climate and abuses it terribly. Gets in at 20 below and floors it ASAP kind of thing. Very abusive and they go over 10,000 miles on oil changes. I can't recall but maybe 15,000-20,000?
Anyway, they have not had an engine fail with Mobil 1 but replaced many during the old days of Dino oil. Mechanic says the difference in engines is night and day.

I recently started going longer on my Mobil 1 changes to 6,000 on the daily driver. Have synthtics in tractors and everything else and started to stretch changes as well. Heck, I dont think any of us will live long enough to wear an engine out with modern synthetic. My two cents.

For CurleyDave, I get Mobil 1 extended at AutoZone and if they run out will order it for me. On sale now for five qts with Mobil 1 filter for $30. Great deal.

LOL---Any engine will have a hard time failing, as you define it with any oil.

I think Mobil one is overpriced for what your get.

 

[sw03]

I guy who used to work for me at Exxon Research & Engineering Co. in lube process area quit and went to work for Sun Oil for a while. He's back with Exxon-Mobil now. He said while at Sun, they did some research on dino vs. Mobil 1 in taxicab fleets. He said the cab engines with Mobil 1 had NO valve train wear at all. This explains how Mobil 1 gives both a fuel economy and hp boost: no grinding away of valve train stuff.

I just switched my 2005 Tacoma to Mobil 1. Fuel mileage went from 27ish to 28ish. Got almost 29 on a recent trip from Charlottesville to Blacksburg.

Now have all 3 vehicles, tractor, 1 4 cycle lawn mower and generator on Mobil 1. Two are diesel. Am using 0w30.

Ralph

Is this for real? How do you define "NO valve train wear at all". Lets see the UOa..

You can get a huge increase in MPG just by puting more air in tires

I am using Amsoil 0w-20 and have way to many UOA to see the diff. I would use it again..Mobil, for the price, they can keep it.

 

[sixdogs]

Oh, and another thing....with Mobil 1 grease

Maybe 10 or so years ago I was using a Brillion seeder to seed tomothy grass seen in a hayfield. It's a 4000 lb rollling "packer" type thing and mine happened to ride on long needle bearings in the hubs. It was built before their use of roller bearings.
Anyway, to get ready i pulled the hubs just to check because it wasn't acting/pulling right. All the bearings had stopped rolling on both sides. I called Brillion to order new bearings and hubs and they said not to use it since it will quit working anyway. I had a window to get the seed down so I packed the hubs with Mobil 1 grease and it worked just fine. Kept pumping grease into it and it never quit.
I don't use Mobil 1 grease now because of the price but if in a bind or it is something I will grease with no provision for re-grease, I often use Mobil 1. That's my story.

By the way, I might use Amsol but because of their multi-level marketing thing and dealers making vested-interest statements and interpretations of the data, one can never be sure. I don't think it matters but do believe the volume production of sythetics has reduced it to a "commodity" and that all are about equal with the exception of price. Arguments of to and fro resemble the "Ford vs Chevy" arguments of my youth.

 

[durganman]

In the mid seventies I started using Mobil 1 in my VW. Mobil touted the oil as good for 25000 mile oil at the time. I continue to use Mobil 1 and change oil every 15-20 thousand miles. I normally drive my vehicles until they have 200-250 thousand miles on them and have had no problems. I use the NAPA gold filters which I have been told are the Wix brand.

 

[crashz]

Bobistheoilguy used to be a great site for information like this. Many tribologists frequented the site and contributed greatly to educate the masses. Corporate sponsorship and bickering members made it nearly intolerable for a while. I haven't been on there in a long time.

I do remember some tests on Mobil 1 being done to determine the base stock, which had changed from a PAO (which they sued Castrol, because Castrol was using a Group III base stock oil and calling it synthetic. Mobil lost.) and switched their standard version M1 to a Group III basestock. The 0w-XX, Truck and SUV and Extended Performance remained a PAO majority. This info is now old, and only worth repeating as tales of the past however.

Wear protection is a pretty broad statement. Does their wear tests involve any ASTM requirements? In what kind of real-world environments do they prove themselves better than Mobil? Some tests are biased to different base oils and additive packages and will the oils suited will perform better in a very short duration. I'll go on the site and check them out as I'm curious now.

 

[jmac1970]

Just use the best, Schaeffer, and be done with it. Honest company with hard working products, and they have oil analysis also.

 

[ihookem]

Schaeffer oil is the best. Ok maybe it is, but an oil test is the only way to go if you really want to see how good your oil is. I got my oil test back at 33k mi. and the test said the iron is at 40 ppm . when it gets to 100pmm it's too high. I called two different techs at the company and both insisted the oil is good. " No need to change your oil with the numbers the test came back with" is what they said. It is getting a little thick and one tech said I might want to change it before it gets cold. At 33k mi. and the oil is still good I just don't know why anyone wouldn't use a good synthetic. My oil is Amsoil 3000 5w30 diesel. Ok, it was 6.60 a qt and now it's 7.75 but what the heck, I would have changed at least four times by now with dino. I use Amsoil filters too and change them every 15-18k mi. same time I do my oil test. Some change oil way too often with the "cheap insurance" mindset. I think they like to change oil though. I don't like it anymore so I went to synthetics. I also notice a big difference in my Kubota 7510 in the winter too. It starts quite a bit easier, and in the long run I am sure a GOOD synthetic oil is cheaper , easier on the engine, the 400 dollar Kubota starter and most everything. Later, Steve.

 

[ampsucker]

one thing is sure, you can't extend your change intervals or modify your oil type until your warranty is up unless you want to risk OEM denying coverage.

that said, i used to run m1 truck and suv in all our vehicles due to the additive package and decent group III base stock. now, i've gradually been extending my OCI on vehicles out of warranty to 7500 miles or more.

not sure what i'll do now that it's been discontinued (since february). i'm about out of my "stash" and may go to regular mobil 1 or m1 EP. i've also heard the castrol syn is good.

as pointed out, most engines of decent design will outlast the vehicle they are in if any decent syn oil is used.

the manager at our local autoparts store has been in the aftermarket parts business for 30+ years. he tells me every time i come in that it doesn't matter what brand you buy. if it meets the spec, it's essentially the same product. some guys like the pennsylvania marketing, some the mobil 1, some the texaco/tropartic, etc.

he convinced me to get cheap gl5 lubrisol for the rear of my infiniti for the 30K change. i figure changing the diff oil every 30K, i could probably put just about anything in and it would be fine until the next change.

if your a scientific type, UOA is the only way to get definitive results. or do some online research on your engine and see the UOAs from others for the same model. that will help you decide what to run.

amp